hugh jaynous

Rechecked and both are 4 pipes still all small on de and 3 1 det

I've read some where around here that the de neo run Det non neo rods etc. IACV is different between the two, de bigger and is 3 small pipes connecting, Det is two small ones and a large one.

ah....i never thought about this, since i just snipped the two auto connectors and spliced the 3 wires to neutral/reverse/inhib and then taped the other cables back without making sure they didn't touch another cable, potentially some of those cables are actually contacting each other now.

i guess to clarify the explanation a bit, all the lights light up, but only one brake light + high lamp is properly functioning ie; when off the brake pedal and the pedal switch is fully pressed down in contact with the pedal that one light is dimmed while the other 3 show no change as if im still stepping on the brakes. I'll try to poke around with a multimeter now, but if by some stroke of genius there's some other thing possible missed im all ears, thanks!

just got around to doing an auto to manual swap in an r34 gt to gtt manual box, auto dash shows N in neutral and reverse in reverse lights beeps, speed, rpm temps etc all work. BUT now brake lights semi work and don't work. The furthest left light and the high brake lamp work, the other 3 are permanently on, no idea if these 3 run off a different circuit? Makes no sense but ill probs try anything at this point lol.

I do believe Uras has one that mostly fits up to it, that section in the center with the skyline lettering has a very slight gap and the sides are a bit finicky to line up. May be a me problem for the side fitment since mine is semi stretched out to mate up to wide fenders. The one on mine is an aliexpress copy if i remember right, its been years lol.front.jfiffront2.jfif https://www.rhdjapan.com/uras-gt-lip-front-lip-spoiler-carbon-fiber-skyline-er34-zenki.html

Price? Depending on pricing, may still be interested in one. I have recently grabbed a digital dash as well so this item isn't super high up on my priorities any more.

Title says it all y'all 😅 definitely a shot in the dark but maybe some thing will come up with y'all awesome peeps?

GTSboy is correct, the shift logic should make no difference if your vehicle is already a GTT from the sounds of it. The shift logic is seperate in the auto NA ecu vs the GTT auto ecu which is together. From what others have said it makes more headaches for the NA auto ecu > +t with Auto GTT ecu and nistune as there would be two shift control units in the car.

that's a decent thread to reference for the "squirrel" trick, it's taking that reference pin and supplying the 5v source to the 3 other pins. The diodes roughly drop the voltage about .6v per diode so just roughly do the math listed in the thread to get the output you need for each pin.

time to go grab some then, thanks!

Just wondering if these will need conversion lines brake lines? They're the 2 pot opposed piston calipers, car already has internal ebrake. Doesn't look like the banjo bolts on the current set up want to fit into the z32 rears, just tried to fit them and the banjo bolts are extremely long and don't seem to want to fit nicely. I believe the z32 shares the rears with r33 gtst and r32 GTR. Thanks everyone !

i did not.......and now i am expecting the car to explode oil at some point....no leaks at the moment though so I'm praying no problems for the mean while.

Gates belt, was tensioned using two turns on crank and a bit more, leaving me with about 1/4 turn twisting the belt. Pump, tensioner, idler was all done as well.

Just wondering it it's possible to adjust tension after you've finished putting everything back? Can i just take off the fan, belts, CAS, upper cover and re-tension? Car sounds like its got a super charger and bothers the crap outta me and makes me fear a snap one of these days at high rpm. Thanks guys.