Jump to content
SAU Community

RSXVRider

Members
  • Posts

    15
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Profile Fields

  • Car(s)
    M35 - XR8 - RSVR - SXV - GSXR
  • Real Name
    Alex

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

RSXVRider's Achievements

Apprentice

Apprentice (3/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

4

Reputation

  1. Do you have the tail gate gas struts?
  2. Found one being wrecked through a friend of mine. Apparently he has a wrecked M35 that says I can have the pump if needed........ Score.
  3. 1. Prepare. Bleed hose on nipple of the transfer case (just behind trans on drivers side). Open ATTESSA fluid bottle with funnel in. 2. Turn key to ACCESSORY on. Don't start car. 3. Disconnect the pump wire 10cm up from the OBDII connector. Leave it disconnected. You will hear the pump 'cycle' ONCE. 4. Using 10mm open ring spanner, loosen bleed nipple. As the seal breaks open the pump will cycle in a 'rhythm'. as you undo the bleed screw more the 'rhythm' becomes a constant purge from the pump." 5. Go to the back of the car and as the funnel is already in your canister, simple pour more fluid in. 6. Over fill (past the line) in order to give you time to get back under the car and close the bleed valve. 7. Reconnect the single wire connector for the pump. 8. Turn key back to OFF. 9. Check fluid level.
  4. If it is a pressure switch problem I do know where to get another pump from for a good price so that might be the solution.
  5. So after re reading all the threads I managed to work out the correct way to bleed the ATTESSA pump. There was a ton of huge air bubbles in the line so I was quietly confident that was my problem. I flushed the entire system with new fluid just to find my light is still on ..... Grrrrrrr Well at least I know my pump actually works...
  6. I got rid of my horrible brake vibration by replacing my rotors. I use the same RDA rotors in my XR8 and they proved to be good rotors for the street.
  7. Thanks West. I hadn't seen that thread before. I did try the disconnect single wire to the pump to bleed it but the pump wouldn't activate. I'm going to give it another go on the weekend as i just read on another tread that you're supposed to bleed the gearbox nipple. I was attempting to bleed the ATTESSA pump nipple. Plus one tread says to disconnect then bleed where as another one says to disconnect then re-connect straight away to bleed.
  8. I've just bought my m35 and i plan to fix up all the little issues then give her some extra bolt ons. Ive just given it a quick polish and clean for now.
  9. Thanks daleo. So this does sound common then? Knowing these aren't OBDII plugs do and can nissan to find the fault code? Would it be worth bleeding the atessa pump?
  10. So i put my new relay in. Statyed car. No 4ws light. Small deive light stays off. Winning. Turn car off. Turn car on. Boom. 4wd light on again. Hmmmmmm. Can anyone tell me what fuse is the 4wd? There are some big ones bwhind the battery but noting is labeled
  11. Im picking up a 4WD relay in a few days to swap out.... Oh and some gas struts for the rear door.....
  12. Thanks west. Well ive just found out that if i start the car with the synchro switched on i dont get the 4WD light on. Fully functional 4WD. Weird right.... lol.
  13. Thanks Josh. Thanks to all the information in this forum that was the first thing I checked. Currently my level is just above full. Would that amount prevent the pump from pressurizing the system? Also do you have any idea as to why I can clear the code and it works fine only for the code to return? I'm reading all about how our cars are NOT OBDII so clearing them could be a hassle.
  14. New guy with M35 Hey guys, I've just bought my first stagea after wanting one for ages. M35 bone stock apart from a set of rims. I love it. It needs a few things doing to it but that's half the fun. It came with a full service history so I hope it's been looked after. The one problem I do have and I have read EVERY post in here about it is my 4WD light is on. what makes this so different? Well after reading a thread in here on how to clear codes (turn on, press acc pedal 5 times etc) my light goes off. I drive it and I have functioning 4WD (split torque gauge works). BUT when I re start the car [normally] the light will be on so I'll turn car off, go through the code clearing actions and BooM, all good ???? My intention is to try the relay under the airbox , failing that I'll bleed the lines of any air. Has anyone else had what I have described ?
×
×
  • Create New...