CruiseLiner

mines about $1200 from just cars and that with the rb26 listed, pity its only for 18k i do have 60% no claims bonus though so that does help.

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do a leakdown test i think, white is oil usually

top racing provide good service and treat customers with respect unlike some other known shops. plenty of people will recomend them on here $217 oil change is a big big rip off, surely pulling a filter off and undoing a sump plug isnt worth $130, its about a 15-20 min job max. i suppose its good value if u got a 15L sump

timing too advanced and causing it to fire when valves are still open maybe? hence fuel and spark = flame straight out exhuast

sudden rich mixture when u back off the throttle, thats what mine does and monster flames lol must admit mines because of the cams i got, dont know why yours would do it

yep series 1 stageas use r33 series 2 engines

1: too heavy 2: finding somewhere to use all that power 3: too loud 4: lack of traction 5. fuel consuption of a 10L v12 at full throttle haha 6. i get more looks than just skylines i can tell u that 7. manual consoles cost too much 8. cant lower it enough that is all...

hey guys well ive been getting a fair few PM's regarding the gtr diff conversion and change over to gtr axles, unijoints and brakes so heres a basic rundown for anyone interested in the work involved... 1. remove stagea diff, axles, rear hubs, coilovers. 2. put gtr diff internals into stagea diff housing so all mounts for attessa pumps are the same and it looks stock from the outside. the stagea and gtr diff housings are identical except the mounting points mentioned. i would take it to a diff shop once internals are installed and get them to check the tolerances on the gears so it doesnt clunk when on and off the throttle. 3. now the backing plates are different on gtr to stagea so its up to u which way u go, i know the gtr one has more capacity for betting cooling and also its aluminium and has fins on it . the gtr backplate just hits the rear x-member so u need to bend abit of the metal on the bottom of the x-member to allow clearance, its only touching by 3-4mm so its nuthin major to alter the x-member with some vice grips etc. 3. install gtr diff into the car 4. gtr axles are too short so they are useless, u will need a gts4 long side axle for the short side of the stagea (left and right axles are different lengths), and then another long side axle from a gts4 for the long side, but its still gonna be 40mm too short so u have to have it extended by a shop who specialises in that sort of thing. we actually did it at home with a welder and cut up one of the gtr axles and joined them where the unijoint area is closest to the diff, and i didnt think it would work or hold up to big launches, but now with 545hp at the wheels and about 8-10 8000rpm launches it is fine 5. u will need to use the gtr rear brake hubs as the splines on the gtr axles are different to stagea axles. these mount using all the stagea rear arms (all the gtr arms are too short). they all bolt up no problems, except the hicas mount on the hub u need to push the bush from the stagea hub into it (instead of the hicas balljoint bush). the bush is slightly small for the gtr hub so we used some shim metal around the outside of it to make it a tight fit. the stagea arm then bolts up as per normal. 6. the gtr brake rotors and hubs just bolt straight on and im 99% sure the stagea brake lines wont fit the gtr calipers as the fittings are different, so i used braided brake lines made up from a local shop. 7. your stagea coilovers wont fit on now as the bottom mountings are different and therefore u need gtr style coilovers (best to get 260rs ones as they are designed for the heavy weight of the rear end compared to gtr ones), i got the sydneykid coilovers so i just ordered gtr ones with a revalve suited for the stagea and they are fine, the top and bottoms both bolt up fine. thats pretty much it from memory, and the only difficult part is the lengthening of the axle, but if a shop does it, it will be easy and not excessively expensive. the drivers side axle is the one that needs lengthening!!! thanks Brad

thanks Roy, great details mate. does anyone know any r32 gtst's that are fully stripped with only bare essentials and how much they weigh? factory is 1260kg from memory? surely getting in the mid 1100's would be a breeze, except maybe the addition of a rollcage would add abit on that so still in the high 1100s i'd assume?

i already have skirts and want a front and rear bar but unfortunately i have a few other priorities at the moment... any idea how much u wanna pay for the skirts?

but building it is half the fun