Cubes

I've got a few for the boys. I went for LIPO's. Only cheap FTX carnages as they are always crashing them. Upgraded 3S batteries, gearing, cooling and wheelie bars. The tyres look like a nitro drag car while pulling a burnout. Good fun kids/I love them.

With regards to lifters. Another thing I came across. My RB20DET lifters were different to the r32 RB25DE. When the RB20DET lifters were installed in the r32 rb25de head the lifters were exceptionally noisy. The lifters when in the rb20 were quiet. I pulled both RB20det and rb25de lifters apart all cleaned primed etc. It appeared as if the rb20det lifters would sit just that little bit lower. So if you have an r32 rb25de head another thing to keep an eye out for.

Run it up to Boostworx for a power run. See if Shaun can throw any ideas at it. He's been doing the RB30 DOHC's (VL's) well before bl4ck32 and myself did ours years ago. On the note of timing up the rb30's. I've never had issues. I've had the stock cams out twice and the regrinds out twice. To time her up I'd simply line up the bottom (usually take a picture as my head won't fit) and then shove the cam belt on lightly, turn the motor in the direction of spin to line up both cam gears spot on then tighten up both tensioners at the same time. I take her for a quick spin and check it again. The dyno sheet attached was of mine running 5w30 oil (anything thicker would result in bad valve float) I also had to wait until the oil was 100% warm otherwise the valves would float and lifters would pump up causing a rough idle until the lifters bled down - scary days it was. The symptoms - top end felt flat, the dyno sheet really didn't wave around that much and it really struggled to hold on to boost up top. Once on the road and warm thinking it was fine after giving it a bit of a hard time the top end would start to feel flat again - yeah thinking back I was playing with fire but at the time I had never experienced float as such before. Yours - that dip looks like some spring surge/float dyno sheets i saw in the old days when I was googling my own issues.

Thats correct. Mine hit a bit of a wall with the stock rb25de cams and gt30 at around 270rwkw. Dropped the cams in and on pump fuel she sucked up the timing to make ~300rwkw on the same boost. After the cams from memory peak torque was running around 18 degree's with near peak power up around 21degree's.

I had a few pics laying around I picked up over the years. I would presume you have to block the feed in the block from the oil pump as it will feed from the pump externally.

I really hope it pans out well. How did the leak down end up? No boost leaks? (turbo to tb boost comparison turned out ok?) Piston ring gap all ok? What else really is there. :S RBMAN had a similar issue with his RB30. It really struggled to make decent power.

Haven't justified buying a SSD yet given the amount I don't use the computer. So I picked up a $100 Seagate Momentus XT 500gb. Damn its made an impressive difference to how windows boots, shuts down and generally runs. Noticeably smoother. Recommended for those who'd rather sink $$ in to something else than a computer but want a smoother running less crunching/clunky computer. All though an extra $100 will grab an SSD these days.

I ran the proxes4 on the rear of my old r32 rb30det running a shade over 300rwkw. Hooked up second relatively well and third damn well. 0-100 was an effortless 4secs flat. Tried quite a few different tyres sizes etc. Settled on the standard 225/50/16's over a set of decent 255 18's that were like sliding on ice in comparison. IMO great tyre, great wear, nice centered feel but with a slightly soft sidewall - which is great for straight line though.

Unsure. :S It would definitely reduce dynamic comp. Mine had severe inlet floating, as boost was increased and she got all warm the onset of float would begin. Maybe the exhaust gets pushed back out in to the inlet or something contaminating the charge. I did have her backfire through the inlet once or twice, as it would drop to idle it would be running on what sounded like 5. The idle would then smooth out as the hydraulic lifter would bleed down. Was nasty, a set of springs fixed her all up though. No damage done as it was rectified fair quickly. Run two catch cans stealth style Block the PCV still run a pipe to it but with a black T piece that runs a hose down through to a catch can under the inlet manifold. Cut the metal standard pipe that usually runs to the std turbos AFM to turbo inlet pipe, bend it towards the block a little, attach a hose and in to a catch can. I've got a pic or two of my old engine bay how she was setup then if you like. Depends if having it stealth is what your after.

As per email I believe you mentioned when she first went on the rollers all appears well and then as she gets a bit of heat in to her power tumbles and she starts pinging. Is the motor breathing? I vaguely remember you said you don't have catch can setup? Oil in the inlet is a bad thing - it causes detonation. Ring gap? Loss of power as she gets hot could indicate this. Valve springs, I know they have been replaced but whats the seat pressure and where's a dyno sheet so we can possibly tell if there's the old tell tale float signs. When I had valve spring issues as the motor warmed up she lost power and wanted to ping. Thats a few more suggestions I can think off all though they typically mean.. Motor apart. :S

I hope this doesn't come across as too harsh I found 250rwkw + needed 7's to to have the plugs looking the way they should after a wot power run. No internet mechanics or I've read. 6's however up to 300rwkw did seem fine however they came out looking a little too hot. I went from 6 to 7's hoping it would help ping when mine was making 268rwkw @15psi but really... no difference. Only difference is the plugs looked how they should after a wot power run on the dyno. 8's were clearly too cold when pulled out at near 300rwkw. Power or its sensitivity to det - I didn't notice any difference at that (>250 <300rwkw) power level. Either way... your running 6 heat range sparkys, stock cams making 207rwkw and its running in to det problems. Something is wrong. Changing plugs or cams isn't going to make much of a difference unless there's an issue with cam timing thats rectified when changing the cams. You need to locate the problem and rectify it before spending more on it. TBH... get it to a different tuner for diagnosis - a tuner that is not willing to check the CAS at the balancer with a timing light or run a quick leak down while its on the rollers isn't worth a pinch of salt. One reason I'll always head back to boostworx even with the now (yes I feel dirty) VE SS. Post the dyno sheet... I'm curious to see what the power delivery looks like.

Is it breathing? And get a leak down test done. Pull the recirc off and see how she's breathing. I used to run two catch cans to keep it stockish looking. One either side using the std plumbing - the PCV was blocked off but connected to make it look legit.

As a result of the answer in bold - Time to get a second opinion if he was referring to the timing read out from the ecu when tuning. :S The timing the tuner see's via his tuning software will not show the CAS swaying timing about. The only way to check it is as Rob82 suggested, in idle, timing light and bring rev's up. No load so it won't ping. Comp ratio - 160psi isn't excessive. Don't go ripping pistons out just yet. I'm almost willing to put $$ on they are not the problem. R32 RB25DE heads always cc up around the low to mid 60cc's. RB25 Neo heads are the only ones I remember ccing up in the 50's. My money would be on the CAS or you have some sensitive knock sensors and the tuner is going off them. Its a worry if he is. RB26 ones went in with a 26pfc and all was good. On a second note - you are running a catch can setup?

Ahhh yes its been some time since I pulled the GT30 off. "What power was it making even though you only saw 8degree's ignition timing?" Car made 207RWKW on the 8 degrees worth of timing. Got to drive it to the assemblers - Im in love 207rwkw - on what boost? Power is definitely down either way you look at it. Your running catch can(s)? Do you mind if I ask who's tuning it? "Mine with the std RB25DE cams was very much knife edge - it 'really' wanted to ping easily. RB25DE cams really aren't much chop, their specs are not ideal for turbo app." This may be one, if not the issue! But at only 8 degrees?[/i] Mine did want to ping easier with the rb25de cams in it but it still made the expected power (250-260) if not a little better (268) on 1bar. "Ensure the CAS is ok - shove a timing light on her as you bring rev's up to ensure its not swaying timing as rpm increase, a faulty cas will cause det issues. (Darren I remember yours had this issue)" This will be checked subsequent to the compression test. Still though, I really doubt its the pistons and am hoping its simply just a timing issue.[/i] Given the above and below - definitely the first port of call. Fingers crossed its a simple fix. "You have a std exhaust manifold - The std exh manifold is T3 divided. t3 divided is larger than the single inlet of t3 gt30/gt35 inlet. Ensure you rip the exh. housing off and port match it to the t3 divided gasket. Don't think its ok to have that ridge there, it kills power." Did you do this to the exhaust housing on your old GT3076R? I can see it would hamper the flow considerably![/i] Sure did - I port matched the exhaust housing so there won't be problems with it, that pic is of your exhaust housing before/after. Are you still running the std inlet manifold/plenum? I port matched the inlet manifold to the plenum as there was also 'some' runners that were out by a good 3-5mm. Substantial IMO to have some runners that are fine and others that are extremely poor. Yes. Still running standard inlet manifold/plenum. I would have thought that the engine builder/assembler would have picked this up and mentioned it if there was an issue. Ill be doing this aswell if that is the case.[/i] Its not really an issue - I simply tried to make everything perfect. A few mm here a few there all adds up. Theres not alot I can do at the moment due to it being the weekend. However, hopefully more information comes about in the coming week. Joel, if you dont have a problem with it, Ill contact you via the email address I have when I bought your old turbo off you. Just want to run a few things by you regarding these issues! No problems at all.

What power was it making even though you only saw 8degree's ignition timing? Mine with the std RB25DE cams was very much knife edge - it 'really' wanted to ping easily. RB25DE cams really aren't much chop, their specs are not ideal for turbo app. When the Tighe 805c cams went in I could dial in the boost and push some decent timing in to it resulting in a touch over 300rwkw before it had boost drop issues due to the soft wastegate spring. A few things to start with... Ensure the CAS is ok - shove a timing light on her as you bring rev's up to ensure its not swaying timing as rpm increase, a faulty cas will cause det issues. (Darren I remember yours had this issue) Double check the cam timing You have a std exhaust manifold - The std exh manifold is T3 divided. t3 divided is larger than the single inlet of t3 gt30/gt35 inlet. Ensure you rip the exh. housing off and port match it to the t3 divided gasket. Don't think its ok to have that ridge there, it kills power. Are you still running the std inlet manifold/plenum? I port matched the inlet manifold to the plenum as there was also 'some' runners that were out by a good 3-5mm. Substantial IMO to have some runners that are fine and others that are extremely poor. I've attached how much meat needs to be taken out of the exhaust housings inlet to match the outlet of the std exhaust manifold. rbman with his gt35 on the std exhaust manifold (rb30det) did some porting to the inlet of his turbo after it was just not making power and hitting that det wall. He picked up around 25rwkw on the same boost from memory. Hope that helps.