Skylsh32

Figured while I'm here i'd ask another question, For a push type clutch does "clutch fork free play" mean the amount of movement the fork has when pushed into the slave cylinder from its neutral position? First time playing around with this clutch business so don't mind the scrub level of knowledge, trying to learn :-). cheers.

Heavy duty rb20det clutch.

Throw out bearing carrier question. Hi there, I have my installed an aftermarket clutch for my rb25det running a rb20det box. upon installing the box (no fluid or lines have been installed yet due saving time) i have noticed (well I had a feeling it would happen) that my clutch fork is angled so much that it is pushing the slave cylinder rod almost all the way back into the cylinder, and has like 1mm (if that of play remaining in the cylinder). Is it safe to assume that my bearing carrier is too long? or do i have to install the clutch lines, bleed them and see where the fork sits from there?. I can get a picture up if I am not making any sense along with amazing (not) paintshop work with red lines everywhere. thanks in advance.

Thanks for the response mate helps heaps.

Hey guys, Just wondering if it is compulsory to fit a copper washer between the 2 flat surfaces of the an adapter and the oil cooler thread? also when fitting AN's does one need to seal the threads with say teflon tape? or do these types of fittings not require any extra sealants/washers? thanks in advance

I ended up still bypassing the fpcm but keeping all the wiring there just taped up. Thanks guys!!

Okay so based on that I would assume it is fine to go ahead and remove the fpcm?. I would be getting 14.4v full time rather than it varying due to engine state, idling etc.

Hey guys, I'm going thorugh the whole "removing wires that are needed" phase on my r32 gtst skyline and would just like to confirm more or less is that the FPCM unit and all it's wires (Green/white, White, Black, Black/Yellow) can be removed from the system, to me it makes sense that it can because a lot of guys out there are already bypassing it with the direct feed mod therefore making the FPCM and resistor in the engine bay useless. I'll be re wiring the fuel pump setup tidily, so all the wires I really need from the factory setup consisting of fuel pump, fuel pump relay and FPCM is the following: (please note colour wires are for the R32 gtst.) Black and Blue wire which comes off the fuel pump relay (Ignition) Black and pink wire again off fuel pump relay (pin 18 off the ECU fuel pump trigger wire) Yellow Blue at the fuel pump lid otherwise black/red on the loom side (fuel light wire) Yellow at the fuel pump lid otherwise green/blue on the loom side (fuel level sensor) I hope I am right, if anyone can confirm my workings that'd be awesome :-) have a great day and thanks in advance.

It is being setup for both street and track. If it is just a sealant that is easily replaceable plus it looks kinda ugly so i wouldnt mind resealing it.

Just wanted to know, ive been hacking away at my sound deadning in my r32 an there's glue/body filler like stuff that seems to he holding some steel panels together maybe for extra reinforecment can this be removed also? i cant see it preventing much in a crash as the steel would rip off anyway. If it comes to it i would get it tack welded after removing the glue stuff it is most noticeable in the centre of the vehicle i will post a photo of what i am talking about if i am confusing anyone. cheers

Old thread figured i'd ask is there any benefits of having the 34 brake booster? will it fit?

Hey guys, Just wondering if anyone could clear something up for me, could I install a bus bar in between the car battery and starter motor? I have found a 300A bus bar does this allow enough current for the starter to operate correctly? would I run into electrical trouble with this setup? it is being used to distribute power to my amplifier and another small fuse box setup in the boot or am I better off just going with one of those battery terminals with the provisions for different sized wires. thanks in advance.

All good I can't see any problems arising from removing this an replacing it with a good relay setup.

Sorry guys it seems as though I have already posted this under the maintenance thread, it was originally meant for this thread which I thought I had posted it under and was a bit confused as to why I couldn't find it, it wasn't showing up under my user cp so I assumed I didn't go through with submitting the thread. Apologies.

Hey guys Can I remove this unit along with the wiring if my fuel pump is going to be hardwired (via relay) to run fulltime? assuming of course it is even related to the fuel pump, my best guess is that it is some sort of voltage controller which is found behind the rear drivers guard hidden behind the interior trim. Uploaded with ImageShack.us