Borci88

Just remove any shim or pin you like if you don't think it makes a difference. Ignore what Nissan designed. 🙄

Did you buy yours from Seeed directly? I bought from Pakronics after seeing they were located in Thomastown and took the gamble that they weren't shipping from China. Yep got it working, baud rate matches as well as can bus speed. RealDash just doesn't seem to have a nice gauge setup purely for temps and pressures, I don't need anything with a Speedo and tacho!

Alright halfway there, RealDash is now detecting some CAN with a baud rate set to 115200 on both the adapter and RealDash. Now to keep fiddling around to see what I can get it to display.

That's what I will look into today, I'm not sure haltech mentions anything in their software what their can rate is set to? I realise now I have the Endianness selected incorrectly in the app, however I think I did try big and little and had no luck.

Gotcha, getting the occasional flash on the send LED however RealDash is stating it is "Connecting USB Serial" every 5 or so seconds, with a Timeout shown as well in Can Monitor. With the car running neither the Send or Rev. lights activate. Is there anything I need to do on the Haltech NSP software? I would have assumed it would be able to intercept the CAN data without Haltech NSP needing to be updated. I believe Baud rate on realdash matches the adapter as well at 2000000, maybe this is too high?

Alright so I have all the parts required to try this out on a Haltech. Am I right in assuming that I am only using the hi and lo CAN wires and the ground? And that the power wire remains unused?

Unfortunately it makes sense, why would you allow cheaper universal keypads when you have your own ecosystem of products.

I'm now wondering if theres slim pickings that the Haltech setup will work as a can keypad + gauges, and whether or not it's just better to go with an OBD2 Wifi Adapter and have it only display gauges as that's tried and true with Haltech. I can see that that github file was posted in 2021 meaning someone must have tried it out by now and either had some success or failure.. Is there a forum on that website talking about it at all? I certainly can't see one.

That's fantastic, I might start ordering some pieces and report back on if everyone was right and you can use your phone as a can keypad with a Haltech elite. Is the file from GitHub installed into the can analyser or into a file in the haltech elite? @BK are you saying that Haltech elite supports a HALTECH canbus keypad if you're using NSP, or that Haltech elites can support any type of canbus keypad as long as you're using NSP.

Even if it isn't possible to use that converter to end up with a Haltech can keypad using a phone or tablet, do we still think it's possible to use the converter via USB into a phone/tablet and have it display can data? Instead of going the haltech OBD2 Cable and Bluetooth/wifi dongle to your phone/tablet?

Realdash can be setup as a can keypad?? 😳 Is this possible to setup with a phone or similar with a Haltech?

All good mate appreciate your time. I ended up ordering a 6262G in a .85 Twin Scroll T4 housing. That should arrive later this week or the next, but in the interim I came across a Borgwarner EFR 9174 internally gated (I believe .95 AR or thereabouts) going cheap so I snatched that up as well. I'll continue weighing up the pros and cons over the next week but I think even IF the EFR was lazier than the Pulsar, I think the EFR is the much safer bet reliability wise, however I can't picture it being much lazier..

I was buying some fittings the other day at a local workshop and we got to talking about Garrett + Pulsar and he said he had a mate of his that bought a Pulsar turbo that made about 70% of what it should have made, so he switched it to the equivalent Garrett and it made the power stated on the box. That's the ONE experience I know of that was negative, so far I have gotten the impression that they receive overwhelmingly positive feedback. I think for the price they are still very impressive, and I'm willing to take a gamble, as I'm doing 95% of the install/work myself, so if the turbo is shit oh well.. can always replace part down the track. Going back a little bit how people mentioned a G35-900 and then buy a twin scroll housing from ATP in the states, unless I read the prices wrong, for a G35-900 without turbine housing, and then add a nice new twin scroll 1.06 turbine housing, I wouldn't expect to see any change from $5,100 AUD shipped to my door. For that money, may as well just go the tried and true method of an EFR. Anyway we'll see, Sinco manifold is 5+ weeks off by the time it's manufactured, and I think I'll hold off until after summer to pull the turbo side off. I've owned this car 7+ years and I think I've spent about 2 of those summers with a working car...

👀 Sinco has a 5 week backlog and I still want a functioning car throughout summer rather than have it sit there in pieces so don't hold your breath! But I'll start putting money down on parts probably this week..

It does indeed, however it only helps by muddying the waters some more 😛 because that is a very impressive result with not too much lag on what is a stock 26 helped with VCAM and E85.. I still think everythings pointing to a G35-900 however, as I'd like it to come on full boost closer to 4000... however maybe I'm being optimistic.