Duncan

Unfortunately this is a bit like arguing if you prefer blondes or brunettes....you will get people who strongly hold either view. My observation is I have had good results racing on MCA golds (spring led) but personally find Gary's approach of lighter springs and heavier bars is more predictable over mixed or rough surfaces like in rally (or an Australian road)

Actually I think you will probably still run into an issue as the consult connector is unusual and most workshops won't have that available (everything modern is OBD). It might require a trip to a friendly nissan dealer who does have the right connector (but may not be interested in helping). Alternative is remove the airbag globe and disconnect the airbag computer, if that is legal

I agree with GTSBoy's earlier post, an increasing missfire when hot is a good description of an issue I've previously had with the ignitor module. I understand these days you can get coil kits which do away with it (noting you have just spend on the loom and coils which is a pain).

I'm not saying it's simple, but I'd never put a moment's thought into how to improve it

I'm a little surprised there is no rear bar on your car, any sign that it was there but removed (mounting holes on the control arms and subframe?) While there are differing opinions on sway bars vs spring rates, I am much happier with the stock boatlike handling being improved with relatively light aftermarket springs and reasonably heavy sway bars at each end. It kind of depends what your expectations are from the handling, but it is likely just adding a sway bar won't transform a big wagon into a track weapon

So many questions in one post You can tell if the fuel lines are the right way around because it will only run the right way. Also the feed should be very firm for about 5 sec when you turn the key on or are cranking and the return will be squishier. Also the feed has the fuel filter in it. Having said all those things, it is soooooooooo common to put them on wrong way around. I had a problem on a recent rebuild where the injectors had gummed up sitting around....might be worth getting them run through an injector cleaner. A rebuilt engine will almost always smoke enough to think you have set it on fire, from oily/greasy finger marks on the manifold....only stop if you see flame not smoke finally.....never let an engine idle when running it in, other than to get it up to temp and do some basic leak checks. Once it is running you need to get out and drive it at different rpm levels (say 500rpm apart up to about 5000) and with at least some load. A good dyno operator can do that in about 30 min but generally due to different conditions on a road you might need 100klm. Don't just drive on a freeway either, find some hills or something for load

well....glad to hear that worked out and thanks for coming back with the info. No idea how stock cams themselves could be an issue but at least it is sorted

As well as the thread you were linked for visual differences, you can use a VIN lookup tool to confirm the model code is correct, eg https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/nissan?_s=h I'm not clear on what makes a car more valuable for collectors because making money from owning a car seems so unlikely in my life....but I'd guess original paint (not just colour), original engine and no modifications from factory would be key things.

Great to hear from you Gary

The pressure switch should be inline with the + (I assume, or possibly the -) to the compressor. PDM can supply it power at all times when AC switch is on and throttle is less than say 80%, the pressure switch will just cut the circuit any time its threshold is reached.

Ha, had to go back to the start to check....4 pages and 3 years, sounds about right for a quick RB rebuild Re no spark or fuel.....can you confirm this is a rebuilt engine being put back in the same car, and that it was running fine when removed? Lots of potential reasons for it not to be triggering properly....

well, re oil pressure, you can either rely on the dash light going out, or while you are gabbing that battery grab a handheld oil pressure gauge at the same time and screw it into the oil pressure light sender port. The battery is always a killer when trying to start a car after a while....its the last thing you think to prepare but really critical.....just need to go back in time 3 days and put it on a charger If you are worried the alternator belt is too tight, back it off....the screaming when running will tell you...better than damaging the water pump or alternator bearings. Because the belt is so short you should be able to get about a half twist out of it when it is adjusted properly

/GTSBoy goes back to looking for a phone that wasn't made in china For me the issue is the variability. I'll bet there are good tyres being made in china, it's just that I don't know which ones they are through personal experience, credible review or brand recognition (in that order of importance). I enjoy being able to use a reasonable range of a car's capability when I drive it, so I want 80% quality tyres on it. That is a very expensive choice but bad tyres are very frustrating when you are trying to have fun, and can be very scary when something unexpected happens on a wet night.

well, good on him for proving its possible, but it is still not how I would do it. That vid doesn't show probably the trickiest bit with cleaning and resealing the sump (although he does state it is done and not leaking, wish I could say that for mine :rofl:) My view is still that replacing an RB oil pump is an engine out job, and you probably shouldn't do it without putting on a larger sump and doing some oil return mods. There is very little safety gained by moving to billet gears alone, and you really can't put in a higher flowing one without making other engine out changes. And of course, in a 32 you still have the short oil pump drive which is by far the biggest issue with pumps. Also, the time to do it in the car is almost certainly longer than the time to R&R the engine and doing it on a stand. Just stay off the limiter with a standard engine. Or really, any engine, these things are expensive these days

Sorry if I'm missing something...does that mean you have to cut the speaker wires to remove the door?

I've attached an english R34 manual that covers some systems but misses a lot of mechanical areas, I'm not sure why And also the japanese workshop manual for RB20/25 but not GTR Neither seems to have full wiring diagrams unfortunately r34workshopmanualeng.pdf r34workshopmanualjap.pdf

Has anyone ever seen a motorsport RB that had too little blowby I'd be more worried about not knowing it if is breathing/overflowing oil but I guess that is a problem for the car behind, Dick Dastardly style

In my experience that is a requirement decision not a forged vs non forged but rather a usage decision. You can run forgies with pretty tight clearances in light use but would still run them loose for racing. Having said that, my street stagea got big clearances and the bloody thing burns and blows by plenty as a result.

Must have been an exciting moment! I'm sure it will be repairable (and worth repairing given the likely value of a good condition R32 seat these days). Will just require some combination of banging, bending and potentially welding....so if you aren't confident a competent metal fabricator

There are 2 on car sales under $30k, $45k+ is the asking price for every other RS. I'd say they are either bargains, scams or listing errors. $50k approx gets you a 5 year newer jap import with a nav screen you can't read Base models are readily available around 30k and would be much better value as a tuning start platform.

It really sounds like a bad CAS or CAS wiring issue if messing with it had it go from not working to "sort of working"

That is just so, so true. BMW make VW look amateur and being amateur

If you remove the CAS and spin it with the ignition on, can you hear the injectors click?

That is 100% the same thing, just squished