• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

4 Neutral

About BuuBox

  • Rank
    Rank: RB25DE

Profile Information

  • Gender

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    Nissan Skyline R32 GTR
  1. Thanks for the suggestions, they're appreciated. Sabbadin is very convenient... I might give them and Racepace a call and see what they think. Wasn't me, sadly car hasn't been out in quite a while.
  2. Looking for recommendations on a workshop in South East Melbourne to do some maintenance and repair work on my R32 GTR. Racepace springs to mind, but not sure if that's overkill for a stock-ish R32? Being 22 years young, a few things are showing their age - head seems to be getting nosier so need that investigated, needs HICAS removed, turbos checked, probably about due for a new clutch, timing belt is almost due, that sort of thing. Any suggestions?
  3. Not sure I'd use a Ryco Premium filter on an RB. I'm sure they're fine, but don't they sacrifice flow for filtration? I use K&N filters, for the nut on the end more than anything else.
  4. Rust will be your biggest concern. Why would you have to rebuild the head with only 40,000 kms on the clock on a stock example though? Doesn't make sense - add a 2 in front of the odometer reading.
  5. Funny what you can find on a Google search. Archive.org has a archive of the auction listing for the "FUSSY" R33 GTR: https://web.archive.org/web/20110223220127/http://www.lexsimshauser.com.au/p197-nissan-skyline-fussy VIN is the same as the car in the link if you check licence plate on the TMR: https://www.service.transport.qld.gov.au/checkrego So OVA 300 was on the money. Doesn't mean the car is crap though, just that it has a checkered past (and a whole lot of money spent on it). Looks pretty good in the auction photos and even better in the current photos. I'd check the "rough underneath" carefully though!
  6. If the engine couldn't maintain 4 psi of oil pressure at idle then you'd know about it - the bearing rattle and eventual rod out the block would be dead giveaways. Probably the oil light sender (hopefully for your sake). You should be using a quality 10W40 synthetic oil (e.g. Penrite Ten Tenths Racing 10W40), possibly a higher viscosity if you're tracking it without oil pressure and temperature gauges.
  7. If you're really worried you could remove the fuel pump fuse and crank it over for a bit to get some oil pressure.
  8. Without a functioning oil pressure gauge, or knowing the history of the engine, you should err on the side of caution and run at least a 10W40. Sump capacity is allegedly 4.5 litres, but put 5 litres in.
  9. The timing belt might be a tooth out. Auction ratings are a great indication of condition, but your biggest concern with a R32 should be rust. You can throw in a R33 or R34 RB26 without selling a kidney; try getting rust repaired for anything less. The local car has the huge advantage of being able to physically inspect the normal problem areas.
  10. Certainly well used even before the accident damage: http://www.skylinespares.com/?post_type=cars_currently_wreck&p=2017 Chassis 016988.
  11. It was banned here in 2003, but is still allowed in lots of countries even now (e.g. USA, Canda, Taiwan). If the previous owner sourced pads online, who knows?
  12. Timing belt is due every 100,000 kms. If you can't verify the odometer, replace sooner rather than later. How long ago were the coil packs changed? What spark plugs were used? You may just need to change the plugs if it's been say 30,000 kms and you used copper plugs. If not, stick with OEM or Splitfire coil packs and you should get 10 to 15 years out of them (i.e. stock coil pack life). Loom issue would be constant IMO, and you'll know if you need a new loom - brittle plugs, will be falling apart, etc.
  13. Leave it. 4mm is very little. A few hundred ml at most.
  14. There will probably be a simple explanation - e.g. the seller has misread one of the digits on the chassis number. Did they send you a picture of the ID plates? It would be a very elaborate fraud over more than a decade otherwise. Sounds like hard work to maybe make $10k over a 'normal' R33 GTR - the tart up job on the engine bay alone!
  15. It's not the same car though, unless the Victorian registration in 1998 is an elaborate ruse. The VIN Vicroads has recorded is also the old style import VIN with seemingly random numbers. It could be a rebirth with that chassis number in Japan, or even an administrative error. Did they exist in 1997/1998?