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I've had a weakened door lock actuator for a while in my R34 sedan, meaning that one of the doors had to be locked manually each time, not ideal. I managed to chase down the replacement part from the wreckers and finally got around to replacing it. This is not a full DIY but here's the general outline, mostly as a note to self for next time: For instructions on how to remove the inside door panel go here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285604-tutorial-r34-gtt-door-panel-removal-guide/ . That guide is for a coupe but sedan front door is very similar. Note to disconnect the window switch plug, push in the clip on the underside of it Remove plastic lining inside the door. Take care with the gooey black glue, it spreads easily and sticks everywhere. Remove rectangular metal brace from the door (4 screws) to give better access to the inside of the door end. Remove the bottom screw of the window slide/guide and jiggle it out of the door. There are a lot of mechanical arms (thick wire looking things) going everywhere, they are the fun part of this puzzle. Most of them disconnect the same way: At each end, rotate the plastic clip thing to the side first to release it, then pull the end of the arm out of the hole. Remember there are two ends to each arm – only disconnect the easier end, not both. The door lock/actuator assembly is held in place by the three large screws at the edge of the door where the latch is. To get the assembly out you'll need to rotate is slightly to get it out of the O-loop in the door lock arm coming down from the top. I'm pretty sure there's a wiring connector for actuator but I got over excited with wire cutters so oh well. Once you've got the assembly out you can replace the actuator only, or the whole assembly, depending on what you have. To re-assemble, follow the steps in reverse. Make sure you put every single arm back the same way. Test everything before you put the door panel back on: door handle and locking mechanism inside and out, central locking on/off, window up/down. Note that for the window to work you'll have to reconnect the window switch plug. It took me a while to work out that the window slide/guide needed to come out of the way first. Generally it's an easy job, just fiddly.

Hi All, Recently my A/C would only blow stinking hot air which was awfully uncomfortable to drive in but it's been too cold to have it off. It started off that it was sporadic but eventually got worse. After some soul searching I found out that the part is a the Air Mix/Blend actuator which controls how much fresh air vs heater air comes through the vents. Tools/Requirements: - Soldering Iron and Solder - Assorted Phillips head and flat head screw drivers - Vice to hold everything - Power supply to test the motor itself - Permanent marker to mark existing points - Sand paper Difficulty: - Low Time Required: - 1 Hour Optional: - Brand new OEM mix actuator - Used OEM working mix actuator 1) Start by testing the actuator using the diagnostics system - If you have error 26, the problem is most certainly the actuator http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426605-aircon-diagnostics-r33/ 2) Locate the actuator under the drivers side dash to the left 3) Remove cap holding the actuator rod in place, mark the rod for reference and pop the rod out of it's "seat" 4) Disconnect the wiring connector from the mix actuator 5) Remove the three securing screws shown below and take the actuator out of the car *over to the bench* 6) Mark some reference points on the arm for the actuator - This will make it easier to assemble again later 7) Unscrew the actuator off its mounting bracket 8) Remove the two screws that seal the housing 9) Using a flat head screwdriver gently pry the arm off the actuator 10) Separate the two clips that hold the housing together from the side and gently open the actuator case 11) Remove all of the little gears from the housing and set them aside somewhere they won't roll away 12) Remove the circuit board and motor from the housing to reveal the last large gear with contacts on it 13) Gently bend the contacts upwards to ensure they haven't been worn out and bent over time - Give the contacts a light sand at while you're at it 14) Clean the contact surface on the circuit board - I wasn't sure what sort of grease this was so I left a thin coat on the board anyway 15) Connect a power source to the motor terminals to ensure the motor still functions - If not see the options above or look at a replacement motor (from Jaycar or other electronics stores or eBay) 16) Take your soldering iron and melt the solder on the joints of the board - Take the time to add a bit more solder where necessary 17) If all went well work your way back from step 12 and test the actuator again

Hi all, My R34 GTT passenger door lock has started playing up and won't lock sometimes so I need to check it every time when parking, annoying. I just pulled the door panel off and had a lock at the mechanism, see photos below. The rod system seems fine and I WD40'd everything whilst there but it didn't really help. What I noticed is that the door locks when the actuator rod is disconnected, so the theory is that the actuator has become too weak over time to move the whole system. Any other suggestions before I go and buy a new actuator? It's a sedan too so finding one is going to be fun... What's involved in changing the actuator? I'm not quite sure how to disconnect the door handle rod, and also couldn't see any actuator wiring/plug anywhere, though it could be somewhere inside the door skin. Cheers Edit: This was a good reference on how to get the door panel off: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285604-tutorial-r34-gtt-door-panel-removal-guide/

I am chasing an R34 GTT sedan front (left) passenger door lock actuator in good working condition, mine's getting tired. Control rods optional. Please let me know what you have by PM. Like this but the opposite side:

As stated i got 2 door lock actuators for sale 1) Passenger side that i ordered brand new from Nissan Japan and still sealed in factory packaging $350 2) Driver side that i bought locally from a guy wrecking a coupe (saw it work before taking out of the car) $150 Bought them as spares but never needed them and i dont own a v35 anymore. If you buy both will do them for $450 Prefer pickup (Brisbane area) or post at buyers cost. Pm will be best option for any communication

Sorry for another actuator thread and I have searched but my problem seems a little different. I went for a drive yesterday and the drivers doors wouldn't unlock with either my fob or the key in the lock. There is resistance from lock and when I use the fob there are no flashes unless I press the lock button. I ended up going through the boot and opening it using the switch to unlock the but if I use fob or key nothing happens for locking or unlocking regarding the locking mechanism it self. I don't fancy leaving the car unlocked or climbing through the boot each time so hoping for some help/advice. I'm wondering if I replace the actuator will this solve my problem or is it something else freezing up? Cheers in advance Niall P.S Passengers door doesn't move either but never has(actuator gone)

For sale are some Genuine R33 RB25DET parts that came off my Series 2. Instrument Cluster with 146k, all working fine except the Tachometer doesnt like telling the RPM all the time, sometimes jupms around, not sure the problem but it works sometimes. could be a easy fix. $60 ono. RB25DET Wastegate actuator, Good condition works perfectly fine. $35 ono. R33 Series 2 / R34 GTR coil packs, great condition near new with no spark blowout at high rpm, Genuine Nissan. $220 ono. R33 RB25DET standard blow off valve / BOV, awesome condition works fine. $30 ono. R33 RB25DET stock dump and front pipe, has surface rust no leaks/ holes/ cracks etc great condition. $30 ono. R33 RB25 Slave cylinder, great condition holds pressure works fine. $25 ono. R33 RB25 Clutch Master Cylinder, awesome Condition, Had reco on it when was on my car. works great holds pressure no leaks $50 ono. R33 Rb25 Thermostat, Works great pluger and spring work great, no faults. $25 ono. Located in Brisbane Northside, can be picked up at either Warner or my workshop at Virginia. can post smaller items at buyers expense (obviously). Im open to offers pm me for any more details. inspections welcomed if wanting to have a look at parts.

Brought but i never used it dont have a need for it. I think its a 14psi spring. 100 ono Located in sydney Cheers

RB20 turbo actuator run 10psi just from bolting it up to ur rb25 turbo$70 RB25 elbow off turbo bigger than rb20 one with near new gasket $50 Location: South Australia (can post at buyers expense) Nathan 0431048440

Hi guys, up for urgent sale are the below items. Prices are negotiable as it all needs to go this week! Parts came off my R33 which made 304rwkws at Chasers on 21psi. All items have done less than 5,000km Location: Melbourne Contact: Dean / 0401 682 270 - Garret 35/40 Turbo with .82 rear. Very good condition, done under 5K since new $750ono - Stainless steel RB25 highmount manifold $750ono - 38mm external gate (brand to be confirmed, worked very well) $250ono - Stock R33 Cat Back exhaust $165ono

2 Garrett 7 psi actuators for gt28 to gt30 turbos (I think). I bought these for testing purposes, but it turned out my existing actuators were fine. They probably have 500 kms on them. part number is 480009-9 $40 CAD each plus shipping (half price of new). I have 2 of these.