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So yesterday I finally put in my new head unit that I bought a few months back. The head unit itself is a Clarion CZ702A, which itself reviewed very well by MEA (http://www.mobileele...02a_cd_tuner-1/) and I used all Aerpro harnesses etc to get it installed without fuss. I also got the harness in readiness for steering wheel controls. Essentially the harness gets you from Nissan to ISO format, then you go from ISO plugs to whatever your deck is. Aerpro Harnesses used as follows: - Clarion to ISO Harness 15 Pin (APP8CLA) - Clarion to ISO format - Clarion Adaptor Cable Suits Control Harness A (APCLAA) - Clarion SWC connection - Control A For Nissan 350Z 03, Navara 06, X-Trial Sport 01 (CHNI3A) - Main harness including steering wheel control component - Nissan D/Diversity Lead (AP348A) - For Antenna connection Another reason for choosing this specific deck was because the LCD display can be completely changed in colour, unlike many that tend to keep part of the display/front in their corporate colours. There's a preset colour for orange that is close, but the User colour setting allowed for more finite control of RGB values (in 8 steps). There might be better instructions around for the removal of the centre section of the console but I used a combination of photo instructions and YouTube video used for the Infiniti G35 (so assume its all the same for M35 Stagea and V35 Skyline): - http://www.sound-rep...l-instructions/ The Clarion headunit itself came with a mounting cage, and after scratching my head a bit on how to use this, I realised I didn't need it. Instead, after unscrewing the factory H/U, I slid the Clarion in and used the same holes and screws to mount it up. I was also hesitant as to whether this unit would be able to control tunes on the new iPhone 5, so I just went down and checked with the sync cable plugged into the USB connection (that was run over into the glove box for now) and all worked as expected. Win! All in all pretty happy with it as is the wife unit. Cheers Brendan

Selling my whole speaker setup and touch screen headunit cheap as f**k! JVC KD-LHX555 Touch screen headunit, has own equaliser, takes sd cards. Two JL AUDIO tr600.cxi speakers, last time i checked JBHIFI sold them for $160 a pair. Two BOSS AUDIO basp6 kevlar speakers. Two BOSTON ProSeries 6.5x crossovers. Two KENWOOD tweeters. I'll also chuck in some RCA cables if you want! Oh and the headunit has 4 RCA ports. I'm located in Melbourne, i will post it you're going to pay and are willing to take the chance they wont get broken or anything.. I want $150 pretty firm. Will swap for aftermarket r33 bits? Hit me with a text cheers guys 0413323385.

Hey guys, I have a R32 GTR with the stock headunit but i am looking to upgrade to something that works. (Stock headunit buttons etc light up when car lights are on ( gets power) but i cannot get the head unit to 'turn on') I have been looking at Mechless Head Units because i prefer to not carry CD's around, but i am not looking for something flashy and it appears that most of the standard ones are brightly lit or do not allow for display colour to be changed. Does anyone have any ideas of a Mechless Head Unit that is stockish looking / non-neon sign looking but allows for display colour customisation (want to match colour with rest of dash lights) Dreaming?

Any body ever seen or no if there is such thing as a CD player for a car that has built in tacho's/gauges boost so on ? Cheers in advance

Alpine 12" Type S Subwoofer in Black Sealed Box Looking for: $125 Bought brand new in early 2011, well looked after. The speaker itself is in perfect condition, no signs of wear or tear. Has never been pushed hard, should make a great addition to any system. The box was in great condition until I took it out of my car and my cat decided it looked like a scratching post, so you can see in the pictures he managed to tear and lift some of the carpet a little bit, other than that the box is still in good condition. Approximate box dimensions: 430W x 430D x 340H Cadence Xa175.4 - 4 Channel Car Amplifier Looking for: $125 Bought brand new, online from the USA in early 2011. This has been a great amp which was powering 2 x 6" splits and the above sub in my old car. I was really happy with the combination and this amp performed really well. The fan in the amp started making a bit of noise not long before I sold my car, so I've popped it open and replaced the fan with a new one. However I don't have a car to fire it up with and check the new fan is running nice and quiet, so if you're interested feel free to come around and give it a test. 110W x 4 @ 4 ohm RMS, 175W x 4 @ 2 ohm RMS, 350W x 2 @ 4 ohm bridged RMS, 1400W Xenith Power Frequency Response: 10Hz - 40 kHz Minimum THD: <0.1%, S/N Ratio: >97dB, Damping Factor: >198 @ 100Hz, Channel Separation: >50dB More information on the amp can be found here: http://www.cadencesound.com/products/XaH175.4.html (please note that the bottom section of "H" improvements don't apply as this is the older Xa model) General Information Both items were bought brand new in 2011, they spent their whole life in my Subaru Outback. Unfortunately my Outback suffered massive engine failure so I sold it for parts last month. Due to the heavy nature of both items shipping is probably not going to be feasible. So both items are available to pickup from my house in Joondalup, Western Australia. If you do really want something posted, you can organise a courier. You're welcome to test both items if you come up to take a look at them.

im looking for a new stereo head unit to put in my v35 and i just keep getting confused by all the options. all i want is something that is compatiable with my sony xperia z1 android phone so i can play spotify through it and that will fit in nicely in the interior looks. probably a 2 din too. does anyone have any suggestions on a good head unit or any that i should stay as far away from as possible. cheers tom

Hey boys! Im looking for some help getting a wire from under the hood to inside the car. Im wanting to do an amp install and everything else I have planned for and will be a breeze. However I cannot find an opening anywhere. I found a little rubber opening where the wire to open the hood leads however I couldnt find where it leads under the hood. Any help? I'm running a '94 GTR R32. Cheers guys.

Making room in the garage, and am parting with my old friend... JL Audio 12w3v2-D2 in a ported JL audio enclosure. Great sub woofer! Pick up in Doncaster East. $100 JL 12W3v2_MAN.pdf

New headunit but still poor radio reception I replaced the aftermarket headunit that was already in my stagea with another aftermarket one (old one had shitty reception too) After connecting all the wires to the correct place the signal is still crappy. I understand that the antenna booster needs power? (the blue wire?) or should I be powering it using the red power wire? I'm lost with that so i thought I would try using a bit of wire as the antenna but turns out you can't do that because the headunit doesn't power on unless the original hardwired antenna is plugged in (wtf) Any help appreciated..

WTB R33 GT-R Rear Speakers Hi all, many thanks as always for your ongoing help with my work on my car, it's greatly appreciated . Short version: WTB stock or similar rear speakers for R33 GT-R. Detailed version: A previous owner of my car did a super dodgy speaker install in the rear. They put in what I believe are 6x9s, but to avoid contacting the battery they had to put in MDF spacers which looked terrible and made the speakers contact the window. I removed them and the parcel shelf, but the shelf liner was cut to fit, so I've sourced a replacement. Fortunately they didn't cut the actual metal underneath, might be an extra hole or two but nothing structural. This leaves me in need of replacement speakers so I don't have gaping holes. Personally I really don't care about sound in the car (not what I bought it for), but my wife would like to be able to somewhat hear music haha, and it would be nice for longer highway trips, so I'm after speakers not a blanking solution. As far as I can tell there's no aftermarket amp, just the aftermarket head unit. So I'm after a pair of rear speakers that I can just plug into the wires and mount easily to deliver a factory appearance. Stock speakers would seem to fit that bill nicely if anyone has some following an upgrade, but I would also take some 6 inch aftermarket ones that are sufficiently shallow to avoid the battery and either use the stock holes or mount easily enough without massive amounts of hacking. The other thing is I have those speaker straddling child seat anchor points, and would like something that'll fit under those. Thanks for your time in reading this!

Pioneer avh-x8850bt review. Advice needed. Just purchased the pioneer avh-x8850bt, Does anyone have it installed and are experiencing any issues? No Digital radio was a bit of a surprise bit apple car play and android auto are a plus. Going to instal into my BNR34, any advice about rewiring the loom? Cheers guys xo

Hi all! I have looked through the forums and can't seem to find what i am looking for (also can't find anything i can understand well ) A friend of mine had a head unit sitting around at his place and seeing as my current one doesn't have AUX connection capabilities i want to install it in my car. Im in need of a new project to attempt but have read that i might be able to buy adapters so i can avoid having to wire it in myself? I am new to all of this so was hoping someone could point me in the right direction. i have attached photos of the head unit, and the wiring that came with. Sorry for the newbie question, but have decided to finally try and learn how to do it! Thanks guys

I'd like to return the car to original. Parts wanted! Thx!

Hello everyone, BEFORE I START PLEASE ASK QUESTIONS IF YOU HAVE THEM For a few months now I have been thinking about changing the controls on my old Triptronic steering wheel to audio controls and this weekend I actually sat down and did it. I must say that it was quite the bitch, and I went through many different designs before I had the final version, and this final version, in my opinion, is the best way of doing it. This guide isn't a step-by-step walkthrough unfortunately because I have already installed the system into the car, I am writing this in retrospection so other people can also do this on their cars, as I have seen it asked about many times. First I'm going to cover other designs that I have seen which are either stupid, needlessly complex or just wont work as expected FAILED DESIGNS Using a 4-way transmitter and reciever (As seen in THIS video) (Would work but needlessly complex and many POF) Wiring resistors inline and running wire from steering wheel back to head unit (A steering wheel rotates //2short) Using a pre-existing PCB and wiring it in on the "dash-side" of the steering column (Ribbon cable in wheel boss wouldn't support enough inputs) OK, Now that that is out of the way. We get onto the good stuff. Below is 3 things. REFER TO THESE INCASE OF UNSURE OR COMMENT 1. A video of the finished product AND a talkthrough of how it is all wired (I rambled a bit) 2. A rough wiring diagram for reference 3. The notes of which wires are connected to what and the pin layout of the PCB. ALL WIRES MAY NOT BE 100% REPRESENTATIVE OF YOUR CAR (ie. Different Colour or Pin) SO PLEASE CHECK WITH A CONTINUITY TESTER FIRST WHAT YOU NEED Steering Wheel Control Harness (Most often comes with your stereo as a 3.5mm jack) Universal Wired Steering Wheel Controller (What I used) (I MIGHT SELL PEOPLE JUST PCB's WITH THE WIRES PRE SOLDERED ECT IF YOU WANT ONE PM ME) Soldering gear and experience Plenty of wire OPTIONAL: Desolderer (Expensive and doesnt need to be used but makes light work of desoldering PCB) HOW YOU DO IT ALL WIRE COLOURS THAT ARE UNDERLINED ARE THE STOCK WIRES, ALL IN ITALICS ARE THE WIRES I ADDED PLEASE TEST THE CONTROLLER AND 3.5MM JACK IN YOUR HEADUNIT BEFORE INSTALLING ALL COLOURS AND PINS MIGHT BE DIFFERENT IN YOUR CAR SO PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE CHECK BEFORE YOUR CUT ANYTHING Prepare the PCB Take apart your Universal SWC and remove the PCB. It should have a number of tactile switches on it and a power cable Test and notate which pins are Ground and which pins the actuation pin is. (This can be done with a continuity tester) In my case the whole board shared a common ground between all switches Desolder all of the tactile switches Solder new wires to the actuation pin for each switch Solder a wire to the common ground for the board. You should now have 5 wires soldered to your board (4 actuation + 1 ground), as well as the 2 original power cables IF YOU DONT HAVE THE TOOLS OR SKILL FOR THIS I MIGHT SELL A PRE-SOLDERED PCB FOR THOSE WHO WANT ONE (PM ME IF INTERESTED) DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!! Remove the Airbag Remove your key surround, upper column cover and lower column cover to gain access to the steering column (5 Phillips head screws in Lower cover) On either side of the steering wheel there is a plastic cover which covers a Torx Head Screw holding in the airbag. Remove both covers and screws Disconnect both plugs on either side of the steering wheel behind the previously removed covers. The airbag should be able to be pulled out now Prepare the Switches With the airbag removed you should be able to see the wires for the switch relay. Find where the two switches combine into a single output in the centre of the steering wheel and cut just before here, so that the switch wires are seperated. Solder the "COMMON GROUND" from your PCB to the YELLOW wires from each switch. Solder the "UP" from your PCB to the GREEN wire (One Side Only) Solder the "Down" from your PCB to the BLUE wire (Same Side) On the other side, "Next" -> Green // "Back" -> Blue Connect PCB to Loom On the passenger side of the steering wheel there is a plug, make sure it is disconnected. On the upper plug, follow the wires back to the cut you made earlier. Clean up and hijack the BLUE and YELLOW wires. Connect the POSITIVE wire from the output of the PCB to the BLUE wire, and the GROUND wire to the YELLOW wire Tap Wheel Harness On the back side of the of steering wheel boss there is a cable with a yellow plug (the wire itself is also probably covered in yellow tape) which runs back into the dash. Locate this plug and strip back whatever is covering Cut the 2 GREEN wires on the PASSENGER SIDE of the plug (Make sure to leave enough wire to solder to) Solder a POSITIVE wire to the INNER wire that you cut (INNER to the centre of the plug) (Make sure its long enough to run to the back of the stereo) Solder a NEGATIVE wire to the OUTER wire that you cut (OUTER to the centre of the plug) Connect Harness to Audio Jack Make sure you have enough wire to reach the back of your stereo Solder the POSITIVE wire to the "INPUT1" wire on the SWC audio jack Solder the NEGATIVE wire to the "GROUND" wire on the SWC audio jack Plug controller jack into Reconnect battery and test if working If working DISCONNECT BATTERY!!! Cable manage and protect your PCB with whatever you can (I used heatshrink) Reassemble airbag (remember to reconnect plugs and TORX screws) Reassemble steering column If not working Check your wiring against mine in the diagrams and the handwritten sheet (The handwritten sheet is the notes I took on the day so they are 100% correct for my install) Use a continuity tester and check wiring if able Write a comment and hopefully I will be able to help ENJOY THE AUDIO CONTROLS Conclusion If you need help with anything dont be afraid to comment and I'll help out the best I can. I have seen tons of people asking about how to do this for a number of years now but I believe this is the first tutorial. I posted a couple videos to facebook of it and there seems to be alot of people who are interested, however, I believe that people think its a lot less time-consuming of a job than it actually is.

Hi all, just wondering if any V36 owners have had the same issue as me, and if so, any input is appreciated. I have a 08 V36 Coupe Type 3 that came with the standard 6 CD audio system. This morning, I ejected a cd from the stacker and inserted a new one. For some reason, the CD was spat out, pulled back for about 3 times. The last time it was spat out, it was not pulled back in again so I removed the CD. Ever since, the CD has not been working. I would not change CDs, wont allow me to insert or eject another CD. I have attached a photo of the error message (I presume) Pressing the eject or load button will now trigger a beeps. Every now and then I can hear the changer initiated (the sound when its swapping CDs) briefly and then it goes quite. Has anyone had an issue like this before? I have unplugged the battery to rest the system but that was no use. Any help is appreciated.

V35 Radio Extender Sydney Okay guys so I've recently bought a r35 and my problem is either the radio extender wasnt installed or its been removed to install an AUX cord that works through a certain frequency. Im looking to get a radio extender installed and work a way to also have an AUX cable, can anyone recommend a place in Sydney that could help me out with this?

Any good audio shops for double din Gold Coast? Hi everyone, I am looking at putting a double din unit into my car and then having a screen for audio, AUX, Bluetooth etc as the 2004 model I'm importing does not have iPod input (attached is the photo of my current system). Does anyone know good shops on the Gold Coast that can do it? It's a JDM car, so I need someone who has worked on the Japanese market model of the v35, also, if they can do the translation of the pop-up unit that would be great too. I am fine with travelling as long as it's reasonable, i.e. >200KMs I would also like to remove the navigation system (2nd Pic) to get the glovebox space back, as I have heard it doesn't work in Australia. Is this possible? Thanks, Lachlan P.S. This is my first post, please let me know if I have done anything wrong, thanks.

Alpine 12" Type S Subwoofer in Black Sealed Box Looking for: $110 Bought brand new in early 2011, well looked after. The speaker itself is in perfect condition, no signs of wear or tear. Has never been pushed hard, should make a great addition to any system. The box was in great condition until I took it out of my car and my cat decided it looked like a scratching post, so you can see in the pictures he managed to tear and lift some of the carpet a little bit, other than that the box is still in good condition. Approximate box dimensions: 430W x 430D x 340H Cadence Xa175.4 - 4 Channel Car Amplifier Looking for: $110 Bought brand new, online from the USA in early 2011. This has been a great amp which was powering 2 x 6" splits and the above sub in my old car. I was really happy with the combination and this amp performed really well. The fan in the amp started making a bit of noise not long before I sold my car, so I've popped it open and replaced the fan with a new one. However I don't have a car to fire it up with and check the new fan is running nice and quiet, so if you're interested feel free to come around and give it a test. 110W x 4 @ 4 ohm RMS, 175W x 4 @ 2 ohm RMS, 350W x 2 @ 4 ohm bridged RMS, 1400W Xenith Power Frequency Response: 10Hz - 40 kHz Minimum THD: <0.1%, S/N Ratio: >97dB, Damping Factor: >198 @ 100Hz, Channel Separation: >50dB More information on the amp can be found here: http://www.cadencesound.com/products/XaH175.4.html (please note that the bottom section of "H" improvements don't apply as this is the older Xa model) General Information Both items were bought brand new in 2011, they spent their whole life in my Subaru Outback. Unfortunately my Outback suffered massive engine failure so I sold it for parts last month. Due to the heavy nature of both items shipping is probably not going to be feasible. So both items are available to pickup from my house in Joondalup, Western Australia. If you do really want something posted, you can organise a courier. You're welcome to test both items if you come up to take a look at them.

I'm trying to install a new head unit into my 92 GTST, I got the until in but I'm not getting anything from the speakers, I'm pretty sure I have it hooked up right but I read somewhere that the amp in the boot wont operate with a new head unit. I'm trying to avoid rewiring all of the speakers but I'm pretty new to the audio world and any help would be much appreciated.

Hi guys, a mate of mine gave me his dual Sony Xplod 1000W Sub Woofers out of his Skyline recently as he was selling his car. It also comes with a Kenwood Amplifier, Aerpro HIgh Performance Capacitor and all wiring. I've heard him play music out of this thing and it's a beast. I don't know much about Sub Woofers so prefer that you drop by to inspect this before purchasing as it is sold as is with no guarantees and due to heavy size you will have to organise your own courier if you want it shipped to another state. I'm chasing $400 for the whole thing but am open to offers. I'm told my mate paid over $1,500 for this setup not including the wiring so pick up a bargain. I have no use for it so just want it gone to a good home and someone that will enjoy it! Please PM or text me on 0401966954 for details and offers. Cheers, Alex

Hi guys, I have sold my car and have the following audio equipment for sale. All are less than a year old and fitted for less than 6 months. Have all boxes and instructions. All fitted to a R34 GTT and the molded sub box for the boot (driver side). German Maestro CS-6508 - 6.5" 50W splits Rockford Fosgate T400-4 - 4 Channel 400W Amplifier Rockford Fosgate Punch P2 P2D412 - 12" 250W Subwoofer R34 driver side molded sub box (reinforced fibreglass in black carpet) Good quality wiring Would prefer to sell all together. $600 ONO

*sony head unit with mp3player,front aux in $40 *sony EXPLODE subwoofer in box $40 *Audioline amp $40 *RCA wire (head unit to amp)with remote wire $10 *r33 stock turbo ECU series 1 & 2 manual $50 located in vermont .... can instal head unit for extra $10

Used these for 5 months before I bought a new car with a decent system already installed. So i had these boxed up for about a year. Just need to get rid of it. I'm asking for $300 for the lot. Contact me for more details and info. Cheers

As the title suggests, i wanna buy anyones OEM V35 Bose equipped CD Changer and Fascia. Seeing how many ppl go aftermarket, surely someone has one lying around taking space. I Dont want a working unit, fascia needs to be in reasonable condition tho, using it for a project. Please PM price and locations Brisbane prefered edit: Forgot to add my contact please call/sms 0414482636 cheers