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Hi guys Looking for a set of cam retaining caps for a rb26 as I have miss placed mine. I am aware that they will need Line boring to suit my head but if anyone knows of any would be great Cheers...

Hi all, I am after a set of Neo Rb25de cams. I have searched the for sale section, but nothing newer than 08/09 could be found. Maybe I'm just a little crap at searching? Anyway, if you have a set bumming around, let me know. Cheers, Jono.

Up for sale is my 2003 JDM Lancer Evolution 8, an extremely regretful sale as it has easily been the best car I have owned and if my circumstances were different you would not be reading this thread. After owning civics, skylines, surpas and silvias I can guarantee this is by far the best car in my opinion. It has a great mod list and in my eyes is the perfect street Evo, it looks tough and it performs. It has had almost all modifications installed exclusively by Meek Automotive and recently returned to them for a full drivetrain service + AYC bleed where they commented that the AYC Pump sounded in excellent condition. It is coming up for a 100k service however the timing belt was replaced when the cams were put in so it will not be necessary to swap for quite a while yet, this is the most expensive part of the major service. I had the accessories belt replaced less than 10'000km's ago. There is almost nothing that the car needs, it is in perfect working order and ready to drive around. However, it is due for a tune. I thought it best to leave this up to the new owner as everyone has different opinions about who is the best tuner and I have taken this factor into consideration when pricing the car. Power? As I mentioned the car is due for a tune. To be honest I'm not sure how much power it makes, feels like 220awkw but the previous owner of the car advised me that it made 244awkw at a dyno day. With the way the mods list reads and depending how you want to tune it, this setup should be see 230-250awkw. Specifications: Year/Make/Model: 2003 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VIII GSR, Imported. Registered: Nov 2012 Odometer: 92500 Engine: Evo 9 20G Turbo Kelford 272/272 Cams SARD 740cc Injectors Walbro Fuel Pump Factory ECU w/Meek Flash Tune K&N Pod Filter & Intake Greddy Front Mount Intercooler Tomei Dump Tomei Exhaust Blitz SBC i-Colour Boost Controller Apexi Turbo Timer Exterior Respray in PPG Black with Purple Pearl - Appears purple in the sun and black at night! Extremely Dark Tint Replica Varis Front Lip - Urethane Rear Roof Spoiler Genuine Evo 8MR Headlights Evo 7 Tail lights Interior Factory Recaro Interior Gold Blox Racing 490LE Shift Knob Autometer Cobalt Boost Gauge Aluminium Pedals Pioneer Headunit – SD Card & USB Kicker front splits JL Audio Rear 6x9 4 Channel Amp Suspension, Braking, Wheels HSD Coilovers Factory Brembo's w/Unknown Pads XXR 527 18x9.75 +20 Matte Black Muteki SR48 Burning Blue Tuner-Style Nuts w/Locking Nuts Falken Azenis RT615 235/40/18 Tyres (90% Tread) Pics: (Note: Car currently has wing on and will be getting a full photoshoot this weekend. Please be patient, more pics to come) I often get comments on how amazing the car sounds with the cams. People who have heard it at meets can attest to how good it sounds at idle, extremely tough. Why sell? Time to buy a house! Keen to free up some cash and start playing a different game for a while. Car will be professionally detailed before sale, not that it needs it. Comes with WE-34-PN plates. Price: $24500ono. No test drives without a deposit. Don’t lowball me. Don’t dream. Contact: 0417 413 948 UPDATE: I have a deposit on another car so start swinging me offers now! It's on an eBay auction here: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...em=140783222378 Also now listed on carsales. It will be on display at The Lowdown's Showcased this weekend: http://www.the-lowdown.com/showcased/ Again, now is your time to make me an offer, you might be surprised.

WTB - STEEL COOLANT PIPE, WATER PUMP, CRANK, CAMS AND CLUTCH Hi fellas, Trying to source the following parts for a RB26 (1995 R33 GTR): Steel coolant bypass pipe that screws into the side of the block (See photos) Water pump (See photos) Crank Poncams or Procams with assembly (Valves, etc) - preferably 270 degree Pull type clutch good for 450 hp (new or used)

Proud owner of an RB25 R34 Skyline running 85.

Cams - what to get ???? ok guys, now b4 anyone starts and i know there are many posts about cams and so forth on here. But i want other peoples opinion on what to get for my motor not what other people have. i have looked into cams and so forth but havnt really got a definitive answer yet, so i would like other peoples opinion on the matter so i can make a educative descision on what to buy. pref something that drops straight in and i dont have to change anything. ok so my specs are as follow ecr33 - series 2 rb25det hks bottom end work standard cams and so forth on top ff plenum hks gt-rs turbo - not sure on trim currently running 15psi - want to run 18 -20 psi turbosmart wg40 wastgate - currently spring set 11 psi greddy oled - boost controller power fc still has vct aswell, dont realy want to get rid of that unless its an easy job. currently changing fuel injectors to 1000cc from standard boost comes on around 3200rpm onwards - responsiveness from idol to boost is very good want to try and retain that so the question is what cams should i be getting to work between the 3000rpm range to 7000 rpm, but i also want it to sound a little lumpy if u know what i mean. i will be eventualy changing over to the haltec ecu with rotational idol, but for now the power fc is good. so anyone have any qood information so i can choose the right cams - and please no abuse or telling me to sell my car as i have seen on other posts ???????

Can I use stock cams in an N1 block? Gentlemen and ladies I have an RB26 N1 block and I have stripped down my stock RB26 block. I would like to build this block as an N1 engine. I am getting my crank blue printed. N1 oil pump and N1 water pump. Are the N1 cams the same as the stock ones? i read this on this site. SKYPER 0 120 posts Car(s):GTS-T Posted March 31, 2008 · Report post N1 cams have the same lift, duration as stock GTR cams but the central angles are different - http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...haft-specs.html Like this Quote Can anyone clarify? thank you.

hks2530 cam selection I need help selecting cams to best suit my 33 gtr with hks2530 turbos I have it narrowed down to two choices 1) Jun 264 10.5 IN, 256 10.5 EX 2) Tomei poncams 260 9.15 IN, 252 9.15 EX Which the tomei poncams have the best response? How would the jun cams compare in terms of response? How much more power would the jun cams make at top end? What other if any modification would be needed with the jun cams? Thanks Stephen

R32 GTR Drag Cylinder Head Hi all, New to the forums after a little advice regarding my rb26 head build. Im currently building a r32 drag car and im looking at building a head that will support 1300awhp+ , before anyone asks the rest of the engine and driveline will be capable of the power im chasing i just want to do the head right the first time around I will be starting with a new core. Im thinking about going sum custom cams but unsure who does the best for this sort of an application. What i would like to know is who in australia does the best porting jobs on the rb26 with proven results. Also suggestions on the valve train im looking at ferrea 1mm oversized valves but not sure on what are better in the way of spring and retainer kits. Are ferrea, tomei, and supertech all pretty similar in quality and performance? Are tomei solid lifters and bronze valve guides going to be up there with the best or is there better available? Also ive heard of +2mm oversized exhaust valves being an option but unsure of who makes them.... Any advice or help pointing me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

RB25DET PARTS All that is in the picture, direct all question to my email address [email protected] with the words "skyline parts" in the subject line. http://i858.photobuc..._1/SAM_0384.jpg PRICE IS ONLY $120 ono. I live in bridgeman downs 4035 area. Maybe able to deliver, i work in indooroopilly. * top and bottom plenum * throttle body * sump * oil pump * water pump * exhaust heat sheld * crankshaft sproket in excellent condition * 5x pistons, in excellent condition. * oil strainer * intake and exhaust cam grears. * rear oil seal housing. Dont have any other parts available. Cheers for looking guys

I’m looking to upgrade the cams on my engine it is a rb25det neo and am after advice on what To buy and what else I can upgrade thanks!

I just needed the timing belt changed but even that turned out to be complex with this car. I knew I bought a well modified one but I expected most tuner garages would be able to set my mind at ease when changing a belt. I bought a new belt, tensioner, idler and water pump to go on, I thought that was easy enough but it took about an hour for them to get the uprated balancer off. I can say I got slightly angry at them when they attempted to use a crow bar instead of the correct puller tool to do this. Eventually they got the right puller tool and as expected, it came off nicely. It's good to know everything was nice and clean down there, no visible leaks, no major wear that needs looking into so I'm happy from that perspective. So, I did let them know that my timing was set at 20 degrees and that the intake and exhaust cams were offset at various mm settings on the HKS gears. Why on earth I found 'tip-ex' on the engine I will never know, surely there's a better way of determining the positions or some way of locking the cams/crank. If you thought that was a nightmare, this is where the trouble really begins and my mechanical knowledge probably doesn't help at this point: - The way they had marked it had the the crank offset by 1 tooth from its position (there is a little notch on the crank that shows this). They didn't align the gears and crank to where they are when you usually set a timing belt up because the said that the timing was different. I knew the engine was set up at 20 degrees so I just trusted that they knew what they were doing. At this point, all done, no interference and boom, CAS back on, in the center where it was marked with tip-ex. The engine didn't start, it just backfired and I'm suddenly panicking that they're breaking my car. So, they check a few things as they didn't seem to believe me when I said that I've never flooded the engine by just turning it on and off before so it shouldn't just flood randomly if it's set up properly. It does have big injectors though so I see their point. So after taking the packs off and checking all is where it should be, the engine, once again, backfires and doesn't start. Upon determining this was a timing issue, they proceeded to strip it all down again and at this point said they had no choice but to put the crank at the notch, put the cam gears at their set positions and try again. All done, ready to start and the car just started backfiring again and at this point, they were saying that I needed to get the person who built the engine to tell me how it was set up so that they could get it right. I pulled out my phone and gave an experienced engine builder a call who said that the problem sounded like they had snapped the little 'D' inside the CAS off and that no matter where the CAS was positioned, I'd never have the correct timing. We checked, and I had to put the builder on the phone with the mechanic as they were trying to tell me that I was misunderstanding but I knew what was going on now, the 'D' was missing from the cam and thus the CAS wasn't positioned correctly. The builder told them to inspect thoroughly that the piece wasn't to be found anywhere to confirm as this could have happened before at a previous timing belt change. This was probably the case because the metal that was left wasn't shining like a clean cut and was a bit dull and had bits of residue. Upon placing the CAS properly into the cam, it started up and sounded fine and was the bubbly little idle tick over that I have it set at on the computer. Concerns So, now I'm really confused at whether the timing is actually set up correctly at all. I don't fully understand the cam/crank timing so I don't really know whether the belt should be set up to be a tooth out. They did mark the positioning of the old belt with this horrible tip-ex the first time. Both times the crank could be turned around twice without interference so I'm now worrying that maybe the timing was meant to be out by a tooth. I do have 264 toda cams and I don't really know whether having the crank off by 1 results in anything opening earlier or later etc. Since it was always the CAS that was the problem, I never got to hear/feel how the car was/would have driven when it was on the original marked settings. I keep saying to myself that the marks were probably just done wrong by the guys there and it is now set up properly but ugh!!! I have always heard that if the crank is out by 1, the engine would barely run or at the very least, would be less than optimal. At the moment the car is driving fine but I've got this worry in the back of my mind that something could be wrong. I could swear it feels a bit laggier too but that could just be because I've been driven back to my home in my friend's R35 GTR which isn't as quick as mine once the turbo is going but has next to no lag. Furthermore, if it does turn out that the crank was meant to be off by 1, can this be rectified by adjusting the cam gears/CAS/timing on the laptop?

Ive got a stock set of cams from R34 Gtt $50 perth Pm for details

Shannons Insurance - CAMS Licence Holder Discount Hey All, Only just found out recently that Shannons offer a (10% i believe) discount to CAMS Licence holders that they don't seem to advertise. Get on it if you haven't already! Cheers

hey guys just after advice and help with cams and there specs can anyone help me have know idea what the degrees mean and am wondering what would be the right cams to put into my drifter?

Skyline r34 gtt (rb25det neo) I just installed some tomei poncams type b 260 degrees 9.15mm lift and as stated by tomei no need to upgrade the valve springs. i also installed the adj cam gears but only the exhaust side would fit, intake cam gear didnt match the intake camshaft. so i just used one old and one new the timing is perfect and the knock is only on idle and coming from the exhaust side. at first i thought it was the CAS but not too sure. im running stock afm and injectors at the moment but will upgrade once the knock has gone and it hasnt been tuned yet but that shouldnt cause a knock. any help or suggestions would be much appreciated.

Been having trouble looking for cams that would be good for a 20e and was wondering if I could use 20det cams in the 20e (yes I know it is SOHC just wondering :)) not planning on swapping the engine, just wanna have some fun with the 20e

Hey guys, I've tried searching but couldnt really find much. Currently making 347 rwkw hks2540's i think - full boost of 22psi at around 5500 ish powerfc tomei adj gears bosch 044 ported manifolds hks dumps hi-flow cat z32 afms sard 800's Running standard internals NOW to my question... How can i increase turbo response? Cams? What cams would be suitable Im hoping something along the lines of drop in i.e. keeping everything else stock. I want a reliable driver also - and im 100% sure this car wont see a track day or drag strip plus i have shift light set at 7000rpms. Lag is starting to annoy me and i really don't know what to do.. i cant afford to take out the turbos and buy and sell -9's or -5's.. What can i do to make the lag a little bit better/bearable? Please don't flame, I'm asking a genuine question. Thanks all

Hi guys, long time listener, first time caller. So I've done some basic mods to my 33 and was somewhat disappointed with the results. Mods as follows: Front mount GCG high flow running 18psi 740cc apexi injectors Upgraded coils (yaris) Walbro pump Z32 afm Power fc Exhaust and bellmouth dump E-boost 2 Maybe more, can't remember............ Any who, I live in the NT. Car made 201kw on the dyno on 98ron. My question is will a set of cams help me power wise? Not chasing huge numbers, just wanna flog it up to the 130k speed limits here ;) Car is responsive, drives really nice, but everyone wants more power yeah? Any feed back or advice on next step for upgrade/more power appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Hey all, First up YES I have searched the forums and google thoroughly and have not found a conclusive answer to my question, secondly please don't come on here asking - 'Why are you deleting VCT? It's better for low-mid range blah blah' because I'm upgrading to cams that are not compatible for VCT for a higher powered build. Currently building up my R33 RB25DET to support (aiming towards) 300-350rwkw on Pump 98. I know that is a huge variation in a power figure but I am not banking on a specific number, the engine/mods are being build to support that power but as to how safe the end result is is ultimately up to the tune/tuners. The head is away getting ported/polished/dedagged etc... and I am buying a set of Camtech cams - specs as follow: IN/EX 272deg IN/EX 9mm Lift No vvt/vct on inlet My question is. With the head off, is there any additional welding/filling up of oil galleries in the head in order to delete the VVT/VCT? Or is it just as simple as removing/blocking up the existing sensor? I don't particularly want to have the sensor hanging out the side of the head when it's not in use as I was hoping to just screw in a threaded bung. I have the two adjustable cam gears ready to go and the aftermarket ECU is a Link G4.

can someone please help me i removed my exhaust cam pulley and i don't know how to set it back correctly.

RB26 Tomei Type R Cams - Results? Trying to find some concrete info around the expected gains from these cams, 250 duration, 9.15mm lift. I've got a -9 setup car on e85 with all the usual stuff, including cam gears, dyno below, I'm mostly interested in response and low to mid range torque, though some more top end wouldn't be a bad thing, I just don't want it at the expense of low to mid range, it's a street car. Has anyone personally used these cams in a similar setup car and what was the result? I had a hard time finding anything solid in the dyno thread, as I'm interested in specific before and after from the cams themselves. I realise the notes around these talk about them being used on stock cat cars to minimise backpressure, I don't have a stock cat and I have full 3.5" from the merge.

Cam dial in Hey all, bit of a brains trust question here. I have kelford cams that I have dialled in exactly to the specs I'm given, and my cold compression test is 170 psi. Was 145 with poncams. This extra pressure makes it impossible to tune. I have dialled them in to within 0.02mm of correct lift at 1mm degree point. At a loss as to why pressure is so crazy high. I'm thinking too much intake advance but it's perfect. Brainstorm please

New tomei valc cams Anyone seen or have real world experience with the new tomei valc cams?