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How-to: Greddy-style Plenum Install

ix9

By ix9,
in Forced Induction Performance

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GOLD_JET Contributor

GOLD_JET

Posted
Posted

hey guys just wondering if anyone has done this conversion on a 34 neo engine. throttle body is alot different. so i bought an 80mm t/b but just wondering what i do with sensors etc. cheers

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ix9
ix9

The great GReddy-style plenum How-to of 2007! By Kym. I think I'm going to be the first one to actually post pics on how to install these eBay plenums. Enough talk already! Pending everyone's commen

ix9
ix9

Now, remember that bit of fuel line you cut off before, let's re-use it smile.gif Remove the bracket from it like below. Cut, cut cut! Strap it to some fuel line we bought earlier. You only need

r32GTSTI6
r32GTSTI6

For all the people who want the pics from the rb26.net site which is now taken down.   https://web.archive.org/web/20170212022106/http://rb26.net/index.php/guides/3-installing-a-greddy-style

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  • 4 weeks later...
mattysaidso Experienced

mattysaidso

Posted
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awesome write up!

one quick question, if anyone can confirm for me.

looking at these pics and description, you have used the existing hole below the washer bottle from ur previous fmic setup with the std plenum. (im asuming?) but you have not retained the std washer bottle. my questions are:

although u have used the existing hole, are u stil not able to retain the washer bottle? or do u have sum form of aftermarket washer? (i cant see anythng)

what i would like to do with my setup is use the exsiting hole from my greddy fmic setup (same location as pictured) and also retain my std washer bottle. is this possible?

Heres mine (genuine greddy, not the copy) should also answer SK's question regarding reusing the GTR/Hybrid intercooler style hole below the Washer Bottle. I re-used my RB25 injector rail also which I painted with oil/heat resistant wrinkle coat.

100_2124.jpg

100_2125.jpg

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r33cruiser Grand Master

r33cruiser

Posted
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yes it is possible. but it is necessary to have some pretty hardcore sharp bends.

in the end me and my mechanic just used the washer bottle area. muuuuuuccchhhh easier.

and im sure u can buy a twin motor washer bottle somewhere else.

something small like a s13?

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H@ME Mentor

H@ME

Posted
Posted

i have a couple of quetions about this install i really want to do this at home as a D.I.Y project, but without a welder am i in trouble, as i need to have nipple added for the boost controller set up on I/C piping, the ACC pipe of the i/c piping (as shown in the tutorial).

Where does the B.O.V vacume line connect to as well, as it did not mention it in the tutorial as i would also have my B.O.V relocated under the wheel arch.

Cheers Hamish

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PSI Parts Veteran

PSI Parts

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Putting a nipple in shouldn't require any welding, you can tap into the piping. However the AAC piping will require some welding due to the size of the hose.

There are several vacuum line points on the side of the plenum, allowing you to use these for BOV, Fuel Reg, etc.

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PSI Parts Veteran

PSI Parts

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Basically drill a hole into the intercooler piping one size smaller than the nipple thread, then put the nipple in by twisting it. The thread should bite into the metal and keep it steady. Some thread tape will also help with the seal.

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m0rt Enthusiast

m0rt

Posted
Posted (edited)
i have a couple of quetions about this install i really want to do this at home as a D.I.Y project, but without a welder am i in trouble, as i need to have nipple added for the boost controller set up on I/C piping, the ACC pipe of the i/c piping (as shown in the tutorial).

Where does the B.O.V vacume line connect to as well, as it did not mention it in the tutorial as i would also have my B.O.V relocated under the wheel arch.

Cheers Hamish

I did this DIY and went the el stingy option and managed to use the old pipe that went across the engine so i had the AAC valve hole and BoV mount already :thumbsup: with all the vac lines if i had to double up i just threw a "T" piece in with some check valves

Edited by m0rt
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H@ME Mentor

H@ME

Posted
Posted
I did this DIY and went the el stingy option and managed to use the old pipe that went across the engine so i had the AAC valve hole and BoV mount already :thumbsup: with all the vac lines if i had to double up i just threw a "T" piece in with some check valves

Sounds like an 'interesting' but smart way to go about it, i am still smoothing and working on mine till i think it is fit to go on the car. i'm sanding it back and polishing it up, i will have a pipe welded in for the ACC valve and the bov mounted under the wheel arch, then i will thread a nipple for the boost controller, unless i get a kkr480 which dosen't exactly need a boost controller. cheers, hame.

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  • 2 months later...
H@ME Mentor

H@ME

Posted
Posted (edited)

Also just thought i'd add a pic of how mine is going.

another step that was forgotten from the tute was that the sensors for the water temp need to be put in just before where the top radiator hose gets plumed in..

can someone answer my post above!! :P

post-36645-1222673367_thumb.jpg

Edited by H@ME
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