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How To: Remove Standard Turbo & Install Kkr480


H@ME
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Hey guys i decided after some research to give the KKR480 Turbo a go, so i have prepared a tutorial on how to remove the stock turbo off a series II rb25 and how to bolt on the KKR480. Progressive pictures have been used through out however forgive me if there is skips here and there :banana: .

SO here are some of the specs of the KKR480 turbo from the otomoto website:

This turbo offers great performance for the price and is very popular on RB25DET engines. The turbine is bigger than on a 430 and uses a 0.69 A/R exhaust housing for greater flow. It is a good choice for 2.5 litre to 4.0-litre engines. It is also good for twin-turbo applications on 5.0-7.0 litre engines.Specifications

Compressor side

Inlet pipe 70mm, outlet pipe 50mm 48 trim compressor; inducer 53mm, exducer 76.5mm

Exhaust side

0.69 A/R turbine housing, Turbine wheel outlet 56mm, outer diameter 73mm

Results

As a single turbo on a 2.5-litre Nissan RB25DET engine we have seen 265kW at the wheels with 18psi boost.

The following parts are also available:

- Race type actuator (1.0-1.25bar) $35

- Manifold flange plate (for use as a spacer or to fabricate a new manifold) $20

- RB20/25 dump pipe $149

I have the otomoto dump pipe and the street type actulator to go with my kk480 turbo.

!!!Caution/Achtung/Attenzione!!!

Follow this guide at your own risk. You have been warned. We are not responsible for any actions you take. The information contained here is a guide and should be acted upon with consultation from your local tuner. If you are unsure or are not confident don't do it.

So to begin with the following tools are needed/recommended:

- decent socket set

- spanners

- WD40

- Screw drivers

- Jack/pin stands

- Pliers

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STEP ONE

Remove Strut Brace (if you have one) Mine is a Nizmo front strut brace which took 17mm spanner.

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STEP TWO

Remove oil catch-can; Again this only implies to you if you have one installed. To do this i used a 10mm socket and a phillips head screw driver.

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STEP THREE

Disconnect AFM plug and remove airbox/pod filter. I have an Apexi D1 Pod filter which i removed.

post-36645-1218257588_thumb.jpg

STEP FOUR

Remove the carchol caniser hoses from the canister: to do this i used pliers to push back the metal clips, then i could slide the hoses off.

STEP FIVE

Loosen the clamps on the silicone joiner connect the crossober pipe (J-pipe) and disconnect vacumm line from the BOV.

If you have a FMIC loosen the other clamps on the silicone joiners (i used an 8mm socket and spanner for this)

post-36645-1218257696_thumb.jpg

STEP SIX

Remove the FMIC Piping from the car (make sure you block the piping still on the car with a clean rag)

post-36645-1218257774_thumb.jpg

STEP SEVEN

Remove the pipe connecting the outlet of the turbo to the cooler piping.

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STEP EIGHT

Jack up the car safely using chocks on the rear wheels, make sure hand brake is on and it is in gear. Place pin stand under and lower jack onto pinstand.

STEP NINE

Remove the 3x nuts connecting the dump pipe to the front pipe (from memory i think these were 14mm and i used a socket set to do so, however they can be tough so a breaker bar or air compressor with rattlegun may be handy).

Once removed shake to losen the front pipe off the dump.

post-36645-1218257935_thumb.jpg

Ok, so now we have all the pipes disconnected front and rear of the turbo.

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STEP TEN

Place under the car drip trays and old towels as it is about to get messy.

Undo the banjo bolt for the oil feed line onto of the turbo again i think this is 14mm and i used a socket with extension. (before doing this i dumped the oil out of the sump as i am going to change it anyhow)

post-36645-1218258032_thumb.jpg

STEP ELEVEN

Remove the water lines to the turbo (feed and return) This was a big sucker 24mm socket!!

STEP TWELVE

Go back under the car! locate the oil drain line which should be held in place by 2x small clamps with 8mm nuts. Undo the clamp closest to the turbo itself. i did this with an 8mm socket.

post-36645-1218258187_thumb.jpg

STEP THIRTEEN

Remove the turbo from the exhaust manifold flange. To do this you will have to bend back the circlips with a set of pliers. Once this is done you will use either a 17mm socket of 17mm spanner. There is 4x bolts on the flange.

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STEP FOURTEEN

Once the bolts are removed carfully push the turbo down off the exhaust manifold and pull it out from the top of the engine bay!

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AND YOUR DONE!! Thats how you remove the stock turbo off a rb25det this also aplies to series I rb25det aswell as series I and II rb20dets.

post-36645-1218258402_thumb.jpgpost-36645-1218258461_thumb.jpg

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hey mate

just a follow up on the turbo... i been looking to buy it aswell for my s1 r33 gtst and just wondering how much better this one performs compared to your old one?

cheers

Jaye

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Hey Jaye, i have not 100% completed the install i about 99% done just need to tighten up the dump to the exhaust housing and tighten down the oil feed bango! But will let you know for sure. the write up on the install will also be done then, cheers hame.

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Hey H@ME

are you able to edit the first post? The pics are no longer working, I think the change of servers has done this, alot of threads with pics from before the change are not working anymore.

I have also done this mod myself on my last 33, I moved my AFM up onto the cooler piping though so I could have a dose... lol I was 19 and it sounded nuts.

I noticed you mention your mods in your sig, but I didn't see any managment?

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Hey H@ME

are you able to edit the first post? The pics are no longer working, I think the change of servers has done this, alot of threads with pics from before the change are not working anymore.

I have also done this mod myself on my last 33, I moved my AFM up onto the cooler piping though so I could have a dose... lol I was 19 and it sounded nuts.

I noticed you mention your mods in your sig, but I didn't see any managment?

Hey there man, yeaha the turbo is great and no i do not have any managment system for it as yet, do you suggest anything? my AFM will stay where it is atm, does seem to have a little dose affect as it is. i will be posting up the rest of the tutorial soon. How do i go about making the pictures work? Hame :D

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when i have time to post it up with the pictures it'll be done! in the mean time i looking for an apexi power fc to run it all safely.

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  • 1 month later...

Alright guys sorry for the delay :P with the install write up so here it is:

Things needed are:

- KKR480 Turbocharger

- Otomoto Dump pipe (optional but easy installation)

- Good socket set

- Jack Pin stands

- Silicone hoses (bends and reducers)

STEP ONE:

Connect Dupe pipe to front pipe (i put a new front pipe on at this stage)

post-36645-1222736644_thumb.jpgpost-36645-1222736754_thumb.jpg

STEP TWO:

Undo power steering resiviour (to allow room as it a big turbo)

STEP THREE:

As the KKR480 is only oil cooled not water cooled as well like the original nissan turbo, the water lines will have to be looped (water feed looped into water drain. To do so cut the end of the lines so both are free at one end attach 3/8 fuel hose between them and attach hose clamps and tighten down.

STEP FOUR:

Mount the KKR480 onto the exhaust manifold flange (no spacer required but make sure you put back on the original metal gasket)

Also here make sure that the turbo oil drain line is fitted into the original outlet on the block - get under car use a 8mm spanner/socket and tighten. (make sure u do this now as you don't want to forget it later on)

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STEP FIVE:

Put on the 4x bolts but do not tighten them down all the way

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STEP SIX:

Connect the otomoto dump pipe up onto the rear of the turbocharger (using the v-band for easy installation) tighten down hard.

STEP SEVEN:

Connect the oil feed line with the originl bango bolt (make sure u retain the 2x copper washers for the bango bolt one goes on first then the bolt goes throught the line loop then the other washer goes on other side before the line is screwed into the turbo) you can either retain the old washers or buy new ones from any auto shop.

-from memory it is a 19mm head on the bold use socket set and long connection.

(can see pic in step four)

STEP EIGHT:

Connect an intake pipe onto the front of the turbo and join it to the afm. i used an old cooler pipe which i cut. used a 3" to 2.5inch silicone reducer from turbo oto pipe and again the same reducer from pipe to AFM.

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STEP NINE:

Attach cooler piping from turbo outlet into FMIC - i used some stock intercoole piping including the 90degree bend off the stock SMIC and down pipe to the intercooler. i then used a 2.75" 90degree silicone bend to join it up to the FMIC system

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STEP TEN:

Top up engine coolent

STEP ELEVEN:

Check to make sure there is no leaks, start car a listen for any problems..if not, GO GO GO! :miner:

post-36645-1222736866_thumb.jpg

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  • 4 months later...

I have similar mods to you H@ME but I made 220rwkw on 13psi with auto box, stock injectors, my turbo is hybrid garrett t04.

You should be making more power than me since you have Nismo 740cc injectors, is your car manual? I'm sure with your mods you can run 16psi easy, why did the tuner stop at 10psi?.

Edited by daxter
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that was my faul! :S as i running boost from the wastegate which is a 10psi gate plan is to get an ebc and have it re-tunned ast 16-18psi..

heres a current pic for those interested.. post-36645-1234917484_thumb.jpg

Edited by H@ME
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  • 2 weeks later...

problem with KKR & hypergear turbos etc is that you need to run big boost (16psi +) to get big numbers - at 17/18psi, you will probably crack 220-230 maybe?

i might have a EBC for sale soon, greddy profec B 2, complete with everything $400 del

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

You obviously have the boost controller now, but the Gizzmo ones are good and cheap @ $249! Make sure you let the car idle before turning it off now that you have a non water cooled turbo.. Otherwise you will burn the oil that sits in the turbo, and maybe prematurely destroy the turbo too.

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