Jump to content
SAU Community

Ati Harmonic Balancers For Rb26 In A Bnr32


Recommended Posts

hi all, i am in the process of putting my engine together. ive come to the problem now i dont know what balancer to buy. i am using a hks step 3 2.6L billet crank, hks pistons, trust carillo rods and an ats twin plate carbon clutch with lightened flywheel. all these parts were balanced by the machine shop to suit an ati balancer. my problem is, i dont really understand what i really need. yes i do want to rev the engine, but do i get the 500hp version or the 1000hp version? i am definitely not aiming for 1000hp, but i have heard that the 500hp model is a little too light to stop the harmonic vibrations. however if i go the 1000hp version, it does not allow me to run aircon. is this true? what do they mean by underdriven/overdriven pulleys?

ON THE ATI WEBSITE IT STATES FOR THE 1000HP MODEL

1000HP Damper includes new aluminum water pump pulley for clearance. A/C belt is a 25% overdrive - DO NOT USE BELT IF RACING! 15% underdrive on power steering, OEM size on water pump.

can anyone explain what this means? can i or cant i run aircon? or do i need to remove aircon belt if i want to race?

Please help!

Edited by AtomicBomberMan
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi all, i am in the process of putting my engine together. ive come to the problem now i dont know what balancer to buy. i am using a hks step 3 2.6L billet crank, hks pistons, trust carillo rods and an ats twin plate carbon clutch with lightened flywheel. all these parts were balanced by the machine shop to suit an ati balancer. my problem is, i dont really understand what i really need. yes i do want to rev the engine, but do i get the 500hp version or the 1000hp version? i am definitely not aiming for 1000hp, but i have heard that the 500hp model is a little too light to stop the harmonic vibrations. however if i go the 1000hp version, it does not allow me to run aircon. is this true? what do they mean by underdriven/overdriven pulleys?

ON THE ATI WEBSITE IT STATES FOR THE 1000HP MODEL

1000HP Damper includes new aluminum water pump pulley for clearance. A/C belt is a 25% overdrive - DO NOT USE BELT IF RACING! 15% underdrive on power steering, OEM size on water pump.

can anyone explain what this means? can i or cant i run aircon? or do i need to remove aircon belt if i want to race?

Please help!

just take the belt off if you go on the track !!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest snotass
I have the 1000hp balancer yes you can run the a/c just take the belt off when you race it but in saying that i have reved my engine to 9000rpm and the compressor and belt are fine same with the power steer.

Ross Tuff bond offer a very good Balancer to suit your application.http://www.rosstuffbond.com.au/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Chris,

You've made me think now! i bought one in the group buy that passed a few months back! i bought mine for a r34, (since i bought an r34 motor thinking i had all the accessories off it) i cant remember if i bought the 1000hp model or not. starting to hope i did now

But i do recall someone saying remove the ac belt when racing.. not a problem for me now since a/c has been pulled out!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Chris,

You've made me think now! i bought one in the group buy that passed a few months back! i bought mine for a r34, (since i bought an r34 motor thinking i had all the accessories off it) i cant remember if i bought the 1000hp model or not. starting to hope i did now

But i do recall someone saying remove the ac belt when racing.. not a problem for me now since a/c has been pulled out!

Hey Andrew,

You bought a 500hp version mate.. There are a few big HP gtr's (900HP) running the 500Hp balancer with no probs.

As above just remove the a/c belt when your racing.

Cheers

Johno

Link to comment
Share on other sites

im also looking at getting mine installed ATI 500hp.. whats the deal with underdrive/overdrive.. also with 500hp ill be able to run a/c from whats been said, is it only at track 'racing' i will have to remove the belt, wot about on the street giving occassional squirts

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my question exactly bwr! what do they and yourselves consider "racing"? how much of a pain is it to take off the belt? what are the consequences of not taking the belt off?

what is the difference between taking the belt off when racing and turning the ac off when racing?

i have heard mark berry and russell newman ran into heaps or problems with their ross balancers, i think with the centres delaminating. Ross sent them quite a few to trial before tsukuba, i dont know if ross ever solved the problem. i do know that once they changed over to an ati, all problems solved and they have never looked back. can anyone confirm?

Edited by AtomicBomberMan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

How much power are you looking at making AND what are you looking to use the car for?

If your going to be making well in excess of 500Hp and racing the car on the circut more than once a year get the 1000 and be done with it - taking off the A/C belt is a 5 min job.

If your just building a street car get the 500. As mentiond above there are a few GTRs floating about with much higher outputs than 500Hp with these.

Taking the belt off means that the crank doesnt have to drive the aircon - simply turning off the aircon doesnt stop the fact that the crank still turns the aircon belt = more work for the crank.

Hope theat makes sense.

Also as a side note - not a good idea to compare your car with Mark and Russells flat out race car....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...

Slightly old post I know but for all running A/c with the 1000hp design beware

While running on the highway today my idler pulley failed taking out both the A/C belt an power steering belt and nearly the waterpump/alternator belt as well

I can not confirm 100% this was because of my 1000hp damper but it is at this point the prime suspect

I had was certain I had ordered the lower spec 500hp upon checking ATI's site I realised

I had in fact been supplied with a 1000hp version

A/c was not on at the time an I had just done some 3rd gear runs to resonably high revs

and was slowing right up when it let go 80 or so in 4th

as the idea of the trip was to help with running the car in so no constant revs etc.

if you look at the size of the idler pulley ie much much smaller than the drive pulley on the crank even stock

let alone 25% overdriven it must do some fairly obscene rev's

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Slightly old post I know but for all running A/c with the 1000hp design beware

While running on the highway today my idler pulley failed taking out both the A/C belt an power steering belt and nearly the waterpump/alternator belt as well

I can not confirm 100% this was because of my 1000hp damper but it is at this point the prime suspect

I had was certain I had ordered the lower spec 500hp upon checking ATI's site I realised

I had in fact been supplied with a 1000hp version

A/c was not on at the time an I had just done some 3rd gear runs to resonably high revs

and was slowing right up when it let go 80 or so in 4th

as the idea of the trip was to help with running the car in so no constant revs etc.

if you look at the size of the idler pulley ie much much smaller than the drive pulley on the crank even stock

let alone 25% overdriven it must do some fairly obscene rev's

I would bet your idler was 3/4 screwed before hand (its a common 32 thing), we have used a fair few 1000hp ATi's and never had any subsequent failures on the road.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Slightly old post I know but for all running A/c with the 1000hp design beware

While running on the highway today my idler pulley failed taking out both the A/C belt an power steering belt and nearly the waterpump/alternator belt as well

I can not confirm 100% this was because of my 1000hp damper but it is at this point the prime suspect

I had was certain I had ordered the lower spec 500hp upon checking ATI's site I realised

I had in fact been supplied with a 1000hp version

A/c was not on at the time an I had just done some 3rd gear runs to resonably high revs

and was slowing right up when it let go 80 or so in 4th

as the idea of the trip was to help with running the car in so no constant revs etc.

if you look at the size of the idler pulley ie much much smaller than the drive pulley on the crank even stock

let alone 25% overdriven it must do some fairly obscene rev's

i have a slightly used 600hp one (around 100 hrs) if you want to swap. Can i tempt you with a few Edith Cowan's ??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi all, i am in the process of putting my engine together. ive come to the problem now i dont know what balancer to buy. i am using a hks step 3 2.6L billet crank, hks pistons, trust carillo rods and an ats twin plate carbon clutch with lightened flywheel. all these parts were balanced by the machine shop to suit an ati balancer. my problem is, i dont really understand what i really need. yes i do want to rev the engine, but do i get the 500hp version or the 1000hp version? i am definitely not aiming for 1000hp, but i have heard that the 500hp model is a little too light to stop the harmonic vibrations. however if i go the 1000hp version, it does not allow me to run aircon. is this true? what do they mean by underdriven/overdriven pulleys?

ON THE ATI WEBSITE IT STATES FOR THE 1000HP MODEL

1000HP Damper includes new aluminum water pump pulley for clearance. A/C belt is a 25% overdrive - DO NOT USE BELT IF RACING! 15% underdrive on power steering, OEM size on water pump.

can anyone explain what this means? can i or cant i run aircon? or do i need to remove aircon belt if i want to race?

Please help!

Call Ati- they will make you a custom dampner at minimal additional cost. I recently had a 500hp rb26 ballancer modified to suit rb25. I just sent them a technical drawing of what I wanted and they modified it to my spesification. The guys are happy to work with you.

Cheers

Justin

Edited by XRATED
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would bet your idler was 3/4 screwed before hand (its a common 32 thing), we have used a fair few 1000hp ATi's and never had any subsequent failures on the road.

Dont doubt that for a second pretty sure thats what pushed it over the edge though,

Interested to hear you have had a few survive though gives me some hope

Out of curiosity were they tracked cars or jus cruisers

if I only had to take the belt of for trackdays I could live with that

i have a slightly used 600hp one (around 100 hrs) if you want to swap. Can i tempt you with a few Edith Cowan's ??

Damn Dirt had to google that to wasn't sure jus what u were offering, wikipedia tells all though

Will pm ya once I have had a chance to talk to my engine builder Monday

Call Ati- they will make you a custom dampner at minimal additional cost. I recently had a 500hp rb26 ballancer modified to suit rb25. I just sent them a technical drawing of what I wanted and they modified it to my spesification. The guys are happy to work with you.

Cheers

Justin

Not sure they could change the A/C pulley being it is the main one carrying the weight

will chat to em monday though regardless

appreciate the imput guys

thanx

Edited by noone
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure they could change the A/C pulley being it is the main one carrying the weight

will chat to em monday though regardless

What about asking them to supply a larger pulley on the A/C itself to slow it down (new belt required obviously).. is this a viable option?

They supply a water pump pulley, why not an A/C one?

If they do that, buy 2 and I'll have one. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

replacing the A/C pulley would not be a viable option as would require rebuilding the whole compressor

cant see it being an option really

It is not a bolt on like the water pump etc

Have never seen a aftermarket kit that supplies this

really doubt its possible

Edited by noone
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Trying find advise on balancers,

just took delivery of an R33 GTR with step 2 HKS crank 2.8 etc etc ( SLY33's you may know of it )

took it in to get tuned, and noticed its only got 5",600hp drag-400hp street ATI balancer ( thats what it says on it )

engine is well into 700hp's, shop said I need bigger one ?? $1000 ??

seems to make sense, but spoke to guy that built it, and said that one would be fine ??

any pearls ??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm trying to maintain stock appearance . Hicas is still installed (although has lockout kit) did you retain factory fuel pump hat? If so I assume you used a bulkhead fitting or similar ?  I was also trying to avoid a full re design as it was previously dynoed at 426kw atw with same setup but different pump. Changing return line would also mean having to change ethanol sensor and fpr and possibly fuel rail. Not chasing more power in any way just reliability of the setup 
    • I do think it's weird I had it for 2 weeks then the issue came up out of nowhere and progressively got worse. I would've imagined changing everything in the ignition system would've resolved any ignition related misfires but still has the high rpm and idle misfires that seem unchanged. I would've thought if it was fuel related it would happen all the time unless it's the pump losing pressure when it gets hot. If it was the ecu I would think it would do it all of the time.  Something I noticed when I had it all apart was a pretty decent coating of oil in the J pipe coming from the throttle body. The weird thing about that is the pcv that goes to the intake is blocked off. So that has me wondering if the oil is coming from the turbo because that's the only thing that could get oil in there. This thing does sound like it spools like a mofo like I'm a former dsm guy and the only stock turbo I've ever heard spool this loud (to only go up to about 5psi) is on a diesel truck. And the recirculated bov is really loud too I had a TurboXS RFL and this thing is just as loud and being so low on psi seems a little weird. I don't know if any of this is or isn't related but just trying to make sure I'm not leaving any potentially helpful information out. 
    • So latest update. I replaced the ignitor with a jspec unit from enjuku. It felt a lot better at first although it is a little bit cooler of a day than it has been. Warming up didn't have as much misfire sputtering as before. Went on a 10m test drive. Felt good, a lot stronger though I was taking it easy on the boost. On the return trip started getting the cutting out at higher rpm again and was getting worse the longer I was driving. Took it easy the rest of the way home. Before turning the car off was getting the normal idle sputtering I was getting before.  So where I'm at now, entire ignition system has been replaced with upgraded components. Plugs still gapped at .8mm. Removed the fuel cap in case it was building too much reverse pressure I'm the tank, didn't help at all. Now I'm still on the same tank of gas the fuel treatment was in, I'm thinking if I can run that out and then refill with fresh 93 maybe  the treatment is too concentrated in some areas but doesn't explain that it only does it once the car is warm. I'm leaning towards fuel pump or injectors but if the injector was clogging I don't think it would make it shut off like it has but then fire right back up like nothing happened. So my current guess would be the pump. Without a fuel pressure guage no way to test or check it while it's running.  So that's kind of where I'm at. Need to start testing fuel components and ecu/wiring but I'm at a loss of what's the next logical step and procedure for testing it. 
    • @niZmO_Man thanks for that info, lucky I bought the gktech ones 🤙.
    • Never cheap out on brakes, tyres, suspension. I learnt the hard way at Oran Park lol
×
×
  • Create New...