Jump to content
SAU Community

Mongoose M80g


R6n350GT
 Share

Recommended Posts

I see Mongoose is a popular model to use, esp the MG80.

I have just picked up the MG80G and am struggling to put together enough info to help myself and others who have basic info to install their own.

I guess if a installer was able to do it in an hour they could charge $100 or so and no one would bother doing it on their own.

I would appreciate their help either way.

This is from the mongoose manual, showing the diagram of what wire goes to what:

IMG_0755.jpg

Here is what im hoping to put together but to fill in the gaps of what is req to install the mongoose

350z_alarm_schematics.jpg

The top 1-8 where do they go in the V35

The immobilizer wires, where do the 3 of them splice into? and where are these wires

The bottom loom 1-14 is what i want to know where the wires can be found in the V35

Edited by R6n350GT
Link to comment
Share on other sites

great way to get one stolen. also (no offence) you are WAY out fo your depth here and the 350z item you are using is somewhat wrong.

you are playing with a car that is CAN driven and if you get something wrong you will destroy several things in teh process.

pay someone!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

great way to get one stolen. also (no offence) you are WAY out fo your depth here and the 350z item you are using is somewhat wrong.

you are playing with a car that is CAN driven and if you get something wrong you will destroy several things in teh process.

pay someone!

Any info posted above can either be found on mongooses site or on the front page of a google search.

If it is a security risk then since i cant edit my post (so annoying btw mods) then please remove the link and i will complete this via PM so the info isnt accessible to everyone. But i would still like help in making a list of where wires are. Using a tool that tells u if current is running through the wire when active could take ages. Chris, no offence was taken, i have PM'd you and if reasonable $ i may get you to do it or any other installer that wishes to PM me.

My step dad and I are not the average person that fails at most things.

I service my previous cars, bikes, do any mods all myself like halos and auto swtiches below including doing alarms (never CAM driven ones before...)

I dont mind paying a professional to do it but not if the price is going to be excessive just because the car is a import and a installer may feel they can charge what ever they want as the customer may not have other options. I hope this isnt the case and from what i see Chris helps alot of people and doesnt mind helping others even if he isnt getting paid. Any mod i do i teach people how its done. Learning is being empowered, people should know more about their cars.

Eg with wiring that i guess if asked by a pro for a little help doing the below i would too be told i am WAY out of my depth. But now i can fix almost any faults with my bike that come up.

IMG_3363.jpg

IMG_3427.jpg

BTW, a R6 stock doesnt have halos, HIDs and the only one side is low beam and the other high. Now its dual w halos and hids, all integrated into stock system, no tacky buttons.

And here is the wiring diagram i modified to help others do the same... http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e208/Dav...utoswitch-f.jpg

So any help with identifying what the V35 wires are that would be great. I will return the favor to this thread by helping others, esp when i do the halos on this car.

Thanks

Edited by R6n350GT
Link to comment
Share on other sites

as chris said not wise to create car alarm guides for thieves

alot of the guides posted online are for USA made cars, not JDM or Australian models

your bike wiring job, no comment :(

Edited by sapphiregraphics
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've been running a 525 for years with the standard hat and FPR in the stagea (mine has a 32 gtr fuel rail and stagea and 32 hat and tank setup are the same) without an issue with base fuel pressure. You said when you disconnected the return it is OK, did you do so at the fuel rail or the fuel hat? Either way I'd be looking for blockages or in the case of the tank kinks in the lines downstream Note I did however have an issue with the current required for the 460 melting the fuel hat.
    • I'm trying to maintain stock appearance . Hicas is still installed (although has lockout kit) did you retain factory fuel pump hat? If so I assume you used a bulkhead fitting or similar ?  I was also trying to avoid a full re design as it was previously dynoed at 426kw atw with same setup but different pump. Changing return line would also mean having to change ethanol sensor and fpr and possibly fuel rail. Not chasing more power in any way just reliability of the setup 
    • I do think it's weird I had it for 2 weeks then the issue came up out of nowhere and progressively got worse. I would've imagined changing everything in the ignition system would've resolved any ignition related misfires but still has the high rpm and idle misfires that seem unchanged. I would've thought if it was fuel related it would happen all the time unless it's the pump losing pressure when it gets hot. If it was the ecu I would think it would do it all of the time.  Something I noticed when I had it all apart was a pretty decent coating of oil in the J pipe coming from the throttle body. The weird thing about that is the pcv that goes to the intake is blocked off. So that has me wondering if the oil is coming from the turbo because that's the only thing that could get oil in there. This thing does sound like it spools like a mofo like I'm a former dsm guy and the only stock turbo I've ever heard spool this loud (to only go up to about 5psi) is on a diesel truck. And the recirculated bov is really loud too I had a TurboXS RFL and this thing is just as loud and being so low on psi seems a little weird. I don't know if any of this is or isn't related but just trying to make sure I'm not leaving any potentially helpful information out. 
    • So latest update. I replaced the ignitor with a jspec unit from enjuku. It felt a lot better at first although it is a little bit cooler of a day than it has been. Warming up didn't have as much misfire sputtering as before. Went on a 10m test drive. Felt good, a lot stronger though I was taking it easy on the boost. On the return trip started getting the cutting out at higher rpm again and was getting worse the longer I was driving. Took it easy the rest of the way home. Before turning the car off was getting the normal idle sputtering I was getting before.  So where I'm at now, entire ignition system has been replaced with upgraded components. Plugs still gapped at .8mm. Removed the fuel cap in case it was building too much reverse pressure I'm the tank, didn't help at all. Now I'm still on the same tank of gas the fuel treatment was in, I'm thinking if I can run that out and then refill with fresh 93 maybe  the treatment is too concentrated in some areas but doesn't explain that it only does it once the car is warm. I'm leaning towards fuel pump or injectors but if the injector was clogging I don't think it would make it shut off like it has but then fire right back up like nothing happened. So my current guess would be the pump. Without a fuel pressure guage no way to test or check it while it's running.  So that's kind of where I'm at. Need to start testing fuel components and ecu/wiring but I'm at a loss of what's the next logical step and procedure for testing it. 
    • @niZmO_Man thanks for that info, lucky I bought the gktech ones 🤙.
×
×
  • Create New...