Jump to content
SAU Community

Diy R34 Gt To Gtr Conversion


Shotgun!
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just completed a gtr front conversion on my r34. Thought i should post up a DIY since i couldn't really find any here (maybe i just suck at searching). Just to clear 1 thing up first and foremost, its not a straight bolt on even if you have the so called "required parts". Theres still abit of cutting a modyfing involved. Oh and by the way i'm no car expert so please excuse if i don't name bits and peices of the car as they should be :D

Just bear in mind i havn't take measurements etc. I'm just showing you what i did and what is involved. First off here's the Parts you will need to make it work:

-obviously the GTR front bar, GTR bonnet

-GTR bonnet hinges (i made custom 1's instead, but highly advise you buy the hinges as it saves alot of stuffing around unless you're experienced with metal fabrication)

-GTR bonnet catch "assembly". alot of people just say 'bonnet catch' but that's wrong, you need the actual metal frame that catch sits on aswell. However you can also do what i did and not buy all that and just modify your current 1.

-custom supports and brackets/frames

So to jump straight in. Start by removing your hood. Pretty straight forward. If your using GTR hinges then obviously you want to undo bolts (1) and (2). however if you want to just modify your existing hinges then you just need to remove bolts (1) only. Do that and off she comes, and don't forget to disconnet your bonnet washer cable.

post-69990-1289217039_thumb.jpg

post-69990-1289217130_thumb.jpg

Next you want to remove your existing bar. Start by removing the 2 screws/clips in the top corners and the 3 clips in the centre.

post-69990-1289217153_thumb.jpg

Next you might want to lift the car and undo the screws which hold the plastic under-tray to your front bar and also in around the wheel arches, pretty straight forward. Then you want to reach in and undo the screw (1) for both sides and once that's done (2) is just like a clip so all you should have to do is yank the bar abit and off she comes.

post-69990-1289217183_thumb.jpg

SO...enough stripping, lets start adding. After alot of trial fitting etc, we decided to start with the bonnet. Now the difference between the GTR hinges and standard is the GTR 1's sit further inside the bonnet and probably about half a centimetre down(towards the front of the car). If you have purchased the GTR hinges skip this and go to the next step.

Using a nice thick peice of metal lying around, we cut out 2 peices of metal and smoothed the edges. Next we measure the ditance between the 2 bonnet screws and drill them out on the metal peice. Next we tried to get the most accurate measurement of how much further in the holes for the bonnet should be from standard. Don't hold me to it but i think it was about 2cm. amazingly enough we got it pretty f'in spot on first time round. Now On the first 2 holes we drilled, we welded 2 bolts to them. Spray that black and now we fit them. If there's anything you didn't quite get it should be self explanatory down below in the pic.

post-69990-1289217377_thumb.jpg

post-69990-1289217397_thumb.jpg

post-69990-1289217409_thumb.jpg

post-69990-1289217425_thumb.jpg

Next off is the bonnet catch. you'll notice that the frame that the catch sits on is on a slight slope, basically the difference between this and the GTR is that the GTR is straight, so we need to straighten this up until your bonnet closes nice and tight. Below is a pic of the already straightened frame as i forgot to take before pic's but i've drawn what i did.

post-69990-1289217485_thumb.jpg

Now however we're left with a gap at the bottom, once again i forgot to take a before pic but as you can see what you need to do is find or fabricate a bracket which sticks out to fill the gap. Use a nice long bolt for the bottom to sit in the oem hole, and drill a hole in the 2 pieces and just use a bolt and nut to hold them together.

post-69990-1289217611_thumb.jpg

Now your bonnet should be finished and looking something like this:

post-69990-1289217636_thumb.jpg

So with the bonnet done, now comes the hard part which is the bumper and the brackets n shit to hold it steady. First problem we ran into when trial fitting is the front Reo bar has 2 bottom kinks which touch the bar. shown below:

post-69990-1289217657_thumb.jpg

Next step, take the reo off. It's pretty straight forward, you should be able to see what bolts need to be undone, you'll find you also need to take off the side sections too. Next cut through the centre of the kinks and belt them down then weld them together:

post-69990-1289217684_thumb.jpg

When you come to fit the reo back on you'll see the reo's side bolts have a bit of space to allow you to re-position it, put it as high up (close to the headlights) as possible, then tighten up the bolts. this will help remove gaps between your bar and the headlights later on.

Now what you want to do is lift the support bar (pictured below).

post-69990-1289217711_thumb.jpg

First i created 2 brackets as seen below however they wern't really stable so i made another 2 as can also be seen below. Once those 2 are made the support bar was bolted down to them

post-69990-1289217871_thumb.jpg

post-69990-1289217890_thumb.jpg

post-69990-1289217903_thumb.jpg

Now the top section of the bar should rest on this support bar.

With all this done, the front bar was tested again, fitted and all done :P still seeking the rubber that sits between the bar and bonnet and also front lip/diffuser but as you can see below all good. waiting for the fenders to come in, will have to paint them first before i fit though =P. may have more pics later in the year if i respray the whole car.

I hope this helps those of you who are doing the conversion and helps those thinking about it to know whats involved. Just remember this is a write up of what i did. The process, planning and measuring itself all up took 3 days to complete, also of course because i wasn't working on it 24 hours a day and bare in mind i had my older bro and uncle helping, doing this on your own i could imagine alot of screws ups and wishes you had someone to help you hold half the shit =P good luck people.

post-69990-1289218027_thumb.jpg

post-69990-1289218046_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice work. The top support bar you have fitted, and made brackets for, does the bumper just rest against that, or does it bolt to it? I also take it thats the factory gtt one just relocated? This is my mission over xmas, as i've just finished/finishing making full gtr kit to fit. Will have bottom lips for sale too, but very slightly diffrent than OEM. The two vents/openings in it won't have the thin divider. Will just be one big vent.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeh mawzy the support is just the gtt relocated and the bumper pretty much rests against it but at the same time i went ahead and put 2 or so screws in for extra support which you may or may not wana do. luckily enough i found an actual gtr at my cousins workshop yesterday hehe. took some quick pics. turns out the gtr is pretty much the same thing as i've done, only comes from factory and with proper brackets =P. i'll have the pics up soon. yeh about the lips n stuff i'm tryin to find oem lips cause not a fan of fibreglass, especially since it's in one of the places most likely to get cracked =(.

yeh GTRAAH if i find some might actually do it hehe, depends how bored i am and also good luck finding them :D . i just got the front fenders in today. they've been rolled already so A+ there. they're white though so not sure if i wana respray them now or wait and do the whole car cause i still have to respray my nismo skirts and rear bar...$$$

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey that was really informative.. Thnx buddy, im planning on getting a GTR bonnet and already have GTR hinges, just still figuring out the bonnet latch thing.. Is it easy to modify the latch assembly to make it fit properly?

Would you have any idea how much i can get a GTR bonnet latch assembly for these days?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeh man it's not really that hard. theres a fair bit of bending ect, fitting that centre frame then seeing if it needs more of a bend, take it back off, bend some more until eventually you try to close your bonnet and it shuts.

one thing i probably didnt mention cause i wrote this up almost forgetting a few things needed, is when you undo the bolt at the bottom (see below) the bottom section of the frame no longer has any support. so once you bend the top part, you'll need for example a few peices of wood (not bricks as they will slide) to place under the bottom section, i used a jack (you can see below), so that way when you try to close the bonnet to see if it will actually shut.

post-69990-1289692295_thumb.jpg post-69990-1289692272_thumb.jpg

Also after reading my post i forgot to mention that once you bend that top part, the bottom will be way off so you have to bend that inwards, then do the whole bracket thing. (see pics)

post-69990-1289692332_thumb.jpg ----> post-69990-1289692360_thumb.jpg

sorry if i was abit unclear on these things but ultimately when you're doing it yourself and referring to this guide it'll probably make more sense.

and to answer your question Zaver i wouldn't have a clue where to get one from let alone how much they are. not enough broken down gtr's here :thumbsup: people take too much care of them (as they should)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Bump for the dead!

I'm about to try this as well.

Deciding if getting a bonnet latch assy will make things simple as bolting on or will it need to be altered as well.

Since its 50 bucks wondering if its worth it or not for those who have tried it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bump for the dead!

I'm about to try this as well.

Deciding if getting a bonnet latch assy will make things simple as bolting on or will it need to be altered as well.

Since its 50 bucks wondering if its worth it or not for those who have tried it.

not sure if it needs modifying but i doubt it. and for 50 bucks you've got nothing to loose man. can't beleive you even found 1 let alone for 50 bucks.

Wow that was very informative. I have a mate who is keen to do this in the next month or so....ill definitely be printing this off and showing him.

Cheers!!!

i never ended up showing the results

=)

post-69990-0-24129200-1335358228_thumb.jpg post-69990-0-74964800-1335358526_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks I'll pick it up. Actually I think all the body parts will be just under $1000 USD total. I found a shop that has its demo car tucked away from 10 years ago. All carbon parts with the exception of the 1/4 and trunk. Hope all goes will look forward to some PM's if I get stuck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hey that was really informative.. Thnx buddy, im planning on getting a GTR bonnet and already have GTR hinges, just still figuring out the bonnet latch thing.. Is it easy to modify the latch assembly to make it fit properly?

Would you have any idea how much i can get a GTR bonnet latch assembly for these days?

The bonnet catch and latch assy's are about 5,000 yen each from Nissan in Japan. The brackets in post #7 are a little less.

I'm about 90% done with this, If you sue a GTR latch assy it will need to be modified as it is too long and it need a new hole in the bottom drilled. You can use the exsitining hole but it way off and was almost breaking the spot welds. (At least for the sedan.) As far everything went as instructed in the thread. But the sidemarkers plugs are different.

Edited by MADE
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

The bonnet catch and latch assy's are about 5,000 yen each from Nissan in Japan. The brackets in post #7 are a little less.

I'm about 90% done with this, If you sue a GTR latch assy it will need to be modified as it is too long and it need a new hole in the bottom drilled. You can use the exsitining hole but it way off and was almost breaking the spot welds. (At least for the sedan.) As far everything went as instructed in the thread. But the sidemarkers plugs are different.

nice to hear man. yeh not sure if sedans are any different. i've seen a fair few sedans with gtr fronts (web pics, not in reality) so i wouldn't have a clue if the latch has been modified. when u say sidemarkers, do you mean the indicators? cause i bought nismo 1's so yeh i think the standard gt indicators don't fit the gtr guards

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Yes , I am talking about the indicators, I ended up buying the Nismo set with GT-R harnesses fitted in about 10mins total. The only problem I ran into was sides skirts for the sedan it's a bit more difficult. Nissan makes 2 piece skirts which I have seen in person but could not verify from the part or in FAST by part number. This would have worked due to the GT-R design. I ended up modifying my one piece skirt into the GT-R lower fender piece.

Once I can figure out this MAC I can load pics. Thanks again shotgun since this is the only detailed thread I have found on the subject in English.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Hey, I have a gtt damaged, and put a GTR rada support. Is that easier to have than the Gtt rada and also.. Do I need anything special besides a gtr reinforcement ??

Hey, to be honest i don't think it makes all that muh of a difference, but it might make putting that front bar a little bit easier because you might not have to make the brackets etc. As for the GTR reo, if you saw in my post you can just use the standard 1 and bend it in abit or yeh a gtr reo is fine.

20120804_133022.jpg20121016_123723.jpg20121008_165020.jpg

that looks like awesomesauce man :yes:

shotgun i must say u r a legend this is such a help doing the upgrade this week

glad i could help, i made this post because i was so sick and tired of people who have never done the conversion before talking shit about how to do it when they had no idea. sadly mine is for sale now but hopefully soon i can move up to a real GTR :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would absolutely be starting with this idea over all other possibilities. It sounds f**ked.
    • Lighting in the shed looks real good! Not lying, have shed envy lol. Maybe one day I can fk off from Metro Sydney.
    • I would be cautious with those 2000/2200 CNG injectors, swap them out for a set of 1550 aka 1650 Bosch stainless ones before you take out a motor.
    • I tested them all a couple times, haven't tested it warm or wet though. The only seemingly really weird thing was the cylinders plug closest to the dash was pitch black nearly.  Doesn't smoke out of the exhaust or anything.    Also sorry everyone for the very late response. Got busy with work and all and didn't get around to fooling with the car for awhile.  But an update! I figured out the cause of the lean condition, my intercooler had at some point exploded or something. It's clearly separated in a spot with black oily buildup around the leak, and multiple leaks in various vacuum lines. I've replaced it and the vacuum lines, and gotten new clamps and there are 0 leaks now after doing a couple smoke tests.   The car now runs significantly better and the exhaust doesn't overheat anymore. I still have the main problem though where the engine feels like I'm lugging it around sub 3500rpm in any gear besides 1st, 2nd It's less noticeable but 3rd anything under 3.5k and I need to downshift or the engine is clearly struggling when trying to accelerate at all, 4th is the exact same, sub 3.5k engine won't accelerate and its hard to bring it back up to speed, 5th gear doesn't feel like the car is going to straight up fall apart now but it still can't pull 5th. It slowly loses speed and rpm and ANY gas I give I can feel the shakes from the engine and it slowly dying. If I ever so lightly give it gas it will slowly and nicely decel till around 2k rpm instead of lugging. But it cannot accelerate at all or maintain speed.   If I go from first gear at 5 or 6krpm and then shift to second it also feels like it's struggling to make power till above 3krpm if trying to accelerate but I can cruise around parking lots at around 1-2krpm just fine in 2nd. It's just when accelerating hard it and changing gear you really notice it die down.  But even if you shift at way lower rpms it does the same thing till somewhere above 3k.  As far as I'm aware it's got r32 gtr transmission gear ratios with gts4 diffs. The tire size is 205/55r16 91h Above 3500rpm the car pulls and runs and drives quite normally and the power from engine sounds and feels very smooth.  It's perfectly driveable at above 3.5krpm but I drive on the highway alot for work and it gets really bad gas mileage in 4th at 4.4krpm. Not that I'm looking for great gas mileage with such a car, just I'm sure being at around 3krpm would be significantly better for it.    Have appreciated all your guys help. I do understand the engine may just be f**ked from running with a boost leak though.    One final thing I'd like to add is I'm only shifting so high in the rpm range is because if I don't I will feel the engine lugging bad with 0 power in lower rpms, pretty much anytime off boost trying to accelerate it feels really bad.  Also when I say 3500 rpm I don't mean exactly. Just around there. 
    • So what did you end up doing ?  and is it still alive today ?    
×
×
  • Create New...