M35 - Hypergear Turbo, Info, Reviews, Comparisons, Results

[scotty nm35]

what is the next size up that you can build, say 500hp at the crank or 315ish kw at the wheels ???

and would it be possible to keep the lag at an acceptiable level like the SS1PU core ???

Ahh, the holy grail of turbo's.

This core on petrol should run around 270kw, any more would require the next size up blades but you reach a point where the rear housing cant flow that much exhaust, and bigger wheels wont improve the output a great deal. Beyond this turbo you would need to go down the High-stall converter path to reduce the effects of the lag. Its a fine balancing act, this one just seems to work perfectly with the stock converter while still making the power.

If you want more power than that, buy my setup.

[Commsman]

Leon,

You should look at installing a thermo switch between the transmission and the cooler. It only allows the fluid to go to the trans cooler when the fluid is up to temp. Made the car much nicer to drive in the morning.

Check with Craig about getting one.

Cheers

Andy

Good to hear from you again Andy

Thanks mate; I have one sorted. Wasn't on my radar to do that until my recent experience, lol. I'm mainly OK with waiting till the trans comes up to temp before driving hard, but an emergency situation may arise (where'd that semi come from?) that requires action, so best to have that covered.

[hypergear]

Yes I think I can get it to make 300rwkws+ on pump 98 with a GT35 rear and a large 76mm comp. I'm made 345rwkws at 28psi on that specification based on a R34 OP6 high flow based on pump 98. The stegea should manage similar, but its was pretty laggy.

[richzx]

Are you still running all your other adjustments with the new turbo Leon i.e. the fuel and timing adjustments you had in place with the stock turbo or did you return everything to stock settings with the hi flow until you saw what it was like? So you aren't getting any cuts with the hi flow and your bigger intake?

[Commsman]

Are you still running all your other adjustments with the new turbo Leon i.e. the fuel and timing adjustments you had in place with the stock turbo or did you return everything to stock settings with the hi flow until you saw what it was like? So you aren't getting any cuts with the hi flow and your bigger intake?

I was tempted to put the stock intake on to see how that performed, but that's mainly because mine takes a lots of cursing to bolt up & I was over having the car in pieces.

However, I decided to do it right & reinstalled the bigger intake. The fuel & timing settings were left as they were pre turbo change. The only thing I did was turn off the boost control so the turbo is currently running on wastegate pressure (with spring is about 15psi).

Stao's test car was M35 with exhaust & fmic, which pretty well covers most of our cars these days. So I'm confident this turbo would work without issues in anything from a totally stock replacement up to whatever level of tune is inplace. The only caveat is (depending on other mods, like intake) you may be starting to push the boundaries of the standard ECU's operating parameters. That's not really a bad thing; in my case it seems I have to wait a few more minutes for the gearbox to warm up before expecting it to allow full boost. Other cars may not experience the same thing.

Having said that, I reset the ECU before taking it out on it's warmed up test & haven't tried a squirt with a cold gearbox again. Maybe that's all that was needed? But I do find it hard to believe the ECU wasn't already reset after having the battery disconnected for a month.

[richzx]

It would be interesting to see what happens if you left the fuel and timing settings at factory level with everything else in place. I suspect there would be cuts but if there wasn't it would pose a few more questions and possibly answers on this wonderful ecu of ours.

[WAGON_BOY]

Yes I think I can get it to make 300rwkws+ on pump 98 with a GT35 rear and a large 76mm comp. I'm made 345rwkws at 28psi on that specification based on a R34 OP6 high flow based on pump 98. The stegea should manage similar, but its was pretty laggy.

thats massive amounts of boost LOL,

what kinda boost can our stock blocks handle?

so with the SS1PU core to get 270Kw what boost am i looking at ?

could this core be tweeked anymore or slightly changed to get that bit more out of it ?

[WAGON_BOY]

Ahh, the holy grail of turbo's.

This core on petrol should run around 270kw, any more would require the next size up blades but you reach a point where the rear housing cant flow that much exhaust, and bigger wheels wont improve the output a great deal. Beyond this turbo you would need to go down the High-stall converter path to reduce the effects of the lag. Its a fine balancing act, this one just seems to work perfectly with the stock converter while still making the power.

If you want more power than that, buy my setup.

i dont think the higher stall would suit my driving habits LOL i like to keep it in manual mode rather than auto........ so it's pointless to change it then because im not riding the torque curve on the box???

[PN-Mad]

thats massive amounts of boost LOL,

what kinda boost can our stock blocks handle?

so with the SS1PU core to get 270Kw what boost am i looking at ?

could this core be tweeked anymore or slightly changed to get that bit more out of it ?

The amount of boost doesn't matter per se, but the amount of power/torque coming from that boost.

I believe Craig was running 18 or maybe a bit more PSI for his 270kw on PULP.

As for the limit... no body knows. All the blow ups have been det or overheat related to my knowledge. I believe Scotty is hell bent on trying to find the limit though!

[Commsman]

It would be interesting to see what happens if you left the fuel and timing settings at factory level with everything else in place. I suspect there would be cuts but if there wasn't it would pose a few more questions and possibly answers on this wonderful ecu of ours.

Unfortunately the only way I could return fuel to absolutely stock is to replace my intake with the OEM one. If I remove my voltage bender with the intake still installed, my car won't even start....

Actually I don't believe there will be any problem with this turbo on a stock setup. Remember the test rig was stock in all areas except for exhaust & fmic. AFAIK it had no other tuning done to it.

[WAGON_BOY]

Ahh, the holy grail of turbo's.

This core on petrol should run around 270kw, any more would require the next size up blades but you reach a point where the rear housing cant flow that much exhaust, and bigger wheels wont improve the output a great deal. Beyond this turbo you would need to go down the High-stall converter path to reduce the effects of the lag. Its a fine balancing act, this one just seems to work perfectly with the stock converter while still making the power.

If you want more power than that, buy my setup.

i dont think the higher stall would suit my driving habits LOL i like to keep it in manual mode rather than auto........ so it's pointless to change it then because im not riding the torque curve on the box???

i believe im incorrect about this LOL,

so i need a better torque converter to handle the power so it doesnt slip ???

[scotty nm35]

The stock block can handle 45psi apparently as my controller hoses blew of a few times...

Alex is right, its the torque that kills rods, and our engine turns out a crapload once tuned.

You would need to be putting out 400kw for the stall converter lockup to slip, mine is slipping due to the 30% torque gains from the e85. Leave it stock until there is an issue or your car gets too laggy to drive. By the way I always drive in manual or the revs aren't high enough to get the power hit. The damn gearbox always wants to be in top gear and 2k revs.

[Commsman]

It would be interesting to see what happens if you left the fuel and timing settings at factory level with everything else in place. I suspect there would be cuts but if there wasn't it would pose a few more questions and possibly answers on this wonderful ecu of ours.

More info to hand. The cutout issue is gone - well at least at the temps that I have here - just by driving a few hundred kms. It appears the same ECU that gives us so much grief can actually do some good. It learnt the new parameters (they mustn't have been too far out anyway) & now has no problems with high load at cold ambient air temps.

Edited June 6, 2012 by Commsman

[scotty nm35]

I would have thought with the colder temps it would hit airflow cut easier Leon, perhaps the key is the intake temps. If the ecu allows more airflow when the air is cool, perhaps tricking the intake temp will net some good gains, especially in summer...

[Commsman]

I would have thought with the colder temps it would hit airflow cut easier Leon, perhaps the key is the intake temps. If the ecu allows more airflow when the air is cool, perhaps tricking the intake temp will net some good gains, especially in summer...

Yes, the colder temps were the culprit, but airflow alone wasn't the cause of the cut. The AFM voltage didn't go any higher then I had experienced pre turbo change, & in some cases was a bit lower when it cut out. So I can guess with some certainty that at least AFM voltage (airflow) & intake air temp inputs combined to screw things up. Before the ECU righted itself I looked very closely at the temp circuit to see what I could do to fool it, & maybe I will continue with that later. Like you say, could be a win for summer.

[scotty nm35]

It doesn't cut at the same voltage each time, it changes with revs and load, depending what cell it's in I guess.

[Commsman]

It doesn't cut at the same voltage each time, it changes with revs and load, depending what cell it's in I guess.

Yes, that's what I observed.

But the good thing is the ECU has the ability to accept new parameters over time, as long as they're not too far out I suppose.

[BoostdR]

Hi All, I have a Greddy Ultimate with a Hypergear SS2, 98 + E85 in my sights. I am a competent tuner but any tips and tricks will help greatly. Could anyone advise of any tips on setting up the emanage to get around the factory restrictions:

ECU Config: VQ20 Setting?

ECU Jumpers: positions?

Boost/load Cut: MAF clamp setting?

Rev Limit: settings for adjusting?

CEL light: Daughter board for V35?

Ignition retard: Knock sensor removed? Keep out of various map axis points?

Any associated problems running 1000cc injectors?

What is the driving experience like with the SS2? Will I be able to get her up on boost at launch with a std stall convertor and the brake wire mod? Or will I get beaten by mazda 121's off the line (ie: horrible to drive around town). Car has, 80mm exhaust from Dump-no cats, HDI FMIC. OEM intake pipe with pod filter.

Kind Regards,

Matt

Edited July 31, 2015 by BoostdR

[BoostdR]

Anyone?

[joshm35]

Anyone what??