Jump to content
SAU Community

Stripping 250Rwkw S13 Silvia, Loads Of Jdm Goodness!

FJ20-RSX
 Share

Recommended Posts

FJ20-RSX Community Regular

FJ20-RSX

Posted
Posted

Red top SR20DET Long motor 100,000kms, with Loom $1200 (excluding turbo, injectors)

Have a vid of engine running and have had a compression test done

S13 Redtop ecu with Nistune $350

Garret GT3071R Turbo, .86 rear housing, 52 trim, Mint cond no shaft play $950

SARD 550cc injectors $400

SARD adjustable fuel pressure regulator, with earls fittings and adaptor $160

GENUINE Z32 Air Flow Meter $150 (no plug)

Walbro 255L/H Fuel pump $100

Can do all of the above as a full package ready to drop in for $3000, good for 240 – 250rwkw

3inch one piece dump and front pipe with O2 sensor $120

3inch stainless Fuitsubo exhaust with hi flow muffler and gutted cat $250

Turbosmart 38mm sleeper series dual port blow off valve $250

Greddy Profec B spec II Boost controller $300 ( pretty much brand new )

NEW Pod filter $50

Greddy catch can $50

DRIVELINE

Tomei 2 way diff in housing Housing ( 5 bolt ), 4.11 ratio $750

S13 gearbox 100,000kms $600

S13 manual tail shaft with centre bearing $100

S13 clutch master cylinder with slave and lines

S13 manual pedal box

Can do a deal for a full manual conversion minus clutch and flywheel

C's short shifter - $150

EXTERIOR

ORIGIN Roof spoiler $180

Crystal JDM tail lights $150

complete S13 Silvia doors – paint and trim in mint condition $120 each or both for $200

S13 boot lid, spoiler holes welded and has been re-painted mint $100

S13 rear stock bar with reo Mint $100

Windscreen good condition - $100

Rear window $100

16x8 genuine R32 GT-R alloys - $500

INTERIOR

S15 Rear seat complete $100

S13 Rear seats $20

Greddy GREX Gear knob $50

Black suede dished steering wheel $100

Bride Fixed back bucket, with drivers side rail (side mount)$400

Black Dash Mat $60

S13 dash mint condition no cracks or fading $200

S13 digital climate control with loom $100

SUSPENSION

Unkown rear strut brace $50

Tein HE coilovers front and rear with camber tops $750

Silk Road adjustable castor rods with rose jointed ends $100

5stud conversion with brakes

5 stud front hubs and bearings pressed onto S13 knuckles and uprights

R33 rear twin piston callipers(bendix Pads) with 5 stud hubs and drum brake set up

R32 BM44 brake master cylinder

R33 handbrake cable with adaptor plate

S15 front callipers with Bendix Ultimate pads, and RDA rotors

Total brake set up package: $700

S13 shell with damage! Has Walk in S,A Rego! (rego is for SR20DET) $800

all parts located in Adelaide, will post most items at extra cost

will have pictures up soon, can email/txt pics for now though

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Pharonic Community Regular

Pharonic

Posted
Posted

Walbro 255L/H Fuel pump $100

ORIGIN Roof spoiler $180

Crystal JDM tail lights $150

complete S13 Silvia doors – paint and trim in mint condition $120 each or both for $200

S13 boot lid, spoiler holes welded and has been re-painted mint $100

Can I get pics of these?

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Walbro 460 in r32 gtr

      By Duncan · Posted

      I've been running a 525 for years with the standard hat and FPR in the stagea (mine has a 32 gtr fuel rail and stagea and 32 hat and tank setup are the same) without an issue with base fuel pressure. You said when you disconnected the return it is OK, did you do so at the fuel rail or the fuel hat? Either way I'd be looking for blockages or in the case of the tank kinks in the lines downstream Note I did however have an issue with the current required for the 460 melting the fuel hat.
    • portaz
      Walbro 460 in r32 gtr

      By portaz · Posted

      I'm trying to maintain stock appearance . Hicas is still installed (although has lockout kit) did you retain factory fuel pump hat? If so I assume you used a bulkhead fitting or similar ?  I was also trying to avoid a full re design as it was previously dynoed at 426kw atw with same setup but different pump. Changing return line would also mean having to change ethanol sensor and fpr and possibly fuel rail. Not chasing more power in any way just reliability of the setup 
    • Chris_Guthrie
      Misfire/stalling issues

      By Chris_Guthrie · Posted

      I do think it's weird I had it for 2 weeks then the issue came up out of nowhere and progressively got worse. I would've imagined changing everything in the ignition system would've resolved any ignition related misfires but still has the high rpm and idle misfires that seem unchanged. I would've thought if it was fuel related it would happen all the time unless it's the pump losing pressure when it gets hot. If it was the ecu I would think it would do it all of the time.  Something I noticed when I had it all apart was a pretty decent coating of oil in the J pipe coming from the throttle body. The weird thing about that is the pcv that goes to the intake is blocked off. So that has me wondering if the oil is coming from the turbo because that's the only thing that could get oil in there. This thing does sound like it spools like a mofo like I'm a former dsm guy and the only stock turbo I've ever heard spool this loud (to only go up to about 5psi) is on a diesel truck. And the recirculated bov is really loud too I had a TurboXS RFL and this thing is just as loud and being so low on psi seems a little weird. I don't know if any of this is or isn't related but just trying to make sure I'm not leaving any potentially helpful information out. 
    • Chris_Guthrie
      Misfire/stalling issues

      By Chris_Guthrie · Posted

      So latest update. I replaced the ignitor with a jspec unit from enjuku. It felt a lot better at first although it is a little bit cooler of a day than it has been. Warming up didn't have as much misfire sputtering as before. Went on a 10m test drive. Felt good, a lot stronger though I was taking it easy on the boost. On the return trip started getting the cutting out at higher rpm again and was getting worse the longer I was driving. Took it easy the rest of the way home. Before turning the car off was getting the normal idle sputtering I was getting before.  So where I'm at now, entire ignition system has been replaced with upgraded components. Plugs still gapped at .8mm. Removed the fuel cap in case it was building too much reverse pressure I'm the tank, didn't help at all. Now I'm still on the same tank of gas the fuel treatment was in, I'm thinking if I can run that out and then refill with fresh 93 maybe  the treatment is too concentrated in some areas but doesn't explain that it only does it once the car is warm. I'm leaning towards fuel pump or injectors but if the injector was clogging I don't think it would make it shut off like it has but then fire right back up like nothing happened. So my current guess would be the pump. Without a fuel pressure guage no way to test or check it while it's running.  So that's kind of where I'm at. Need to start testing fuel components and ecu/wiring but I'm at a loss of what's the next logical step and procedure for testing it. 
    • couchboy
      R32 skyline gtst 2wd swaybar end links

      By couchboy · Posted

      @niZmO_Man thanks for that info, lucky I bought the gktech ones 🤙.
×
×
  • Create New...