Jump to content
SAU Community

Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures


Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Welded up the sump but it distorted to much so I made up another one without the extra extension at the back.

Made a new pick up, still need to make a bracket back to the girdle and modified the windage tray.

Had the ETS-pro from Full Race turn up, finding this unit was the trigger for starting the whole project.

IMGP2611_resize_zpsfebed872.jpg

IMGP2612_resize_zps292419bb.jpg

IMGP2616_resize_zps9ddd6387.jpg

IMGP2617_resize_zps8cd3726a.jpg

IMGP2618_resize_zpse8c9b3cf.jpg

IMGP2619_resize_zpsc5c58d8d.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice work!

ETS Pro seems to be an elegant solution to control the attessa hardware... just imagine trying to splice your way through the stock attessa wiring/sensors.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Few more things done, rebuilt the clutches in the diff. The bearings and back lash was fine so brought the nismo 3843S-R521 kit but should have brought the 3843S-R520 kit.

The R521 kit came with 4 spring plates, 2 spring discs 4 friction discs and 2 friction plates, this made about 130ft/lb brake away.

IMGP2591_resize_zps76a24937.jpg

I used 2 spring plates, 2 spring discs, 4 friction plates and 4 friction discs, this would be the same as the R520 kit.

IMGP2598_resize_zps5f770ead.jpg

The brake away torque to start with was 25 ft/lb and ended up with 69 ft/lb. Gave the pressure rings and the casing a polish with some fine sand paper and filed the

sharp edges, this helped the pressure ring slide smoothly.

Pressure ring before polishing.

IMGP2603_resize_zps321a55c4.jpg

After

IMGP2606_resize_zps52a53008.jpg

Polishing the casing where the ears run.

IMGP2605_resize_zpsb6eecffc.jpg

Made some plates to bolt to the flanges for testing and removing the stubs.

IMGP2613_resize_zps10438bea.jpg

IMGP2581_resize_zpsd1a15e0b.jpg

IMGP2577_resize_zps157d6425.jpg

Put back together with a quick coat of paint.

IMGP2607_resize_zps52a0e567.jpg

Also started to de-burred the block and modified a corner on the fuel tank to give the exhaust more clearance.

IMGP2621_resize_zps303279a0.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Few more things done, rebuilt the clutches in the diff. The bearings and back lash was fine so brought the nismo 3843S-R521 kit but should have brought the 3843S-R520 kit.

The R521 kit came with 4 spring plates, 2 spring discs 4 friction discs and 2 friction plates, this made about 130ft/lb brake away.

IMGP2591_resize_zps76a24937.jpg

I used 2 spring plates, 2 spring discs, 4 friction plates and 4 friction discs, this would be the same as the R520 kit

Just to confirm, this is an r33 GTR r200?

I've been looking for the part number for the nismo rebuild/upgrade for my r32 GTR.

Who did you source the diff parts from?

Cheers

Justin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Justin yes this is out of GTR R33, I would go the 3843S-RS520 kit

This should help for the part numbers. http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/lsd/pdf/repair04.pdf

I brought the kit form rhd japan http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-r200-mechanical-lsd-disc-kit-rs521.html

Negun also have rebuild kits. http://www.nengun.com/nismo/lsd-repair-parts

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can believe it if you're getting air into the pickup. Cavitation is tremendously destructive for pumps.
    • I think the pic in the first post is another car, and post 7 is OP's car with standard arms and swaybar swaybar swaybar. I can't tell what brand the silver coilovers are, and even if I could I don't know whether the spring rate is OK, if you can find a brand on the shocks and numbers on the springs that might help. Also, if you can measure the ride height from centre of your wheel to the guard that will help with advice too as handling suffers if ride height is too low
    • sadly, pics no work. that car must have spent a lot of time in a cryo bubble
    • In the first photo you posted, the colour of the control arms are the signature colour for Ikeya. Same for the swaybar, signature colour for Whiteline.  I like Hardrace, they also do hardened rubber bushes if your car is mainly a street car.  I like GKTech as well, but they use a lot of rose joints in their stuff so might not be the best choice for everyone.  The system might have been good back in its day, but it's a prehistoric system now. I suspect that most people have removed the HICAS as they want the car to do what they want to do, not what the car wants to do. From what I also understand, it isn't consistent in it's behaviour on track so it's hard to trust the car/know where its absolute limits are for track use.  Having said that, I think the HICAS eliminator kit was the first thing I installed when I bought my car. I don't personally have any experience with the HICAS system on a race track.  
    • Thanks for the info. Didn’t know I had aftermarket control arms already? Will talk to my garage. What brand would u recommend if I want to play around with my camber more? I would think my camber is around stock level right now or more negative now due to lowering with coilovers. I will be lower her again 1.5 cm to get some more.    also why does everyone like to remove the hicas system? Is it because most don’t work properly anymore or ppl just don’t like them. Mine is functioning as it should be right now.    thanks for the good info 
×
×
  • Create New...