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Best Service Centre In Sydney-- Nissan Skyline V35 250Gt


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Hi ,

Please help me out with some good service centres(Not racing and costly type) for Nissan skyline 2005 v35 250gt in sydney, preferrably in innner west line,I live at starthfield, any pointers close by would be lovely.My car has clocked 75000kms.

Thanks,

Sakthi

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JLM has complied and serviced many V35 Skylines.Their Japanese Mechanic 'Mizu" worked on many of them when he worked at Nissan in f*kuoka, Japan. When i had my 350Z (same drivetrain) they were able to successfully diagnose a couple of problems over the phone for me. Their hourly rate is also very reasonable.

They are located in Rydalmere.

Too quick for me Terry

Edited by the spruce moose
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And the first time you take it there, request that they disassemble the intake system and give the whole thing a clean out.

The DD motors suffer terrible build up inside the plenum and intake runners from EGR and blow by.

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wow thanks all for the reply, ill be there first thing tomo morning,i just bought the car two days back, its gonna be my first servcing experience,im experiencing some engine heating up soon enough,, a mechanic told me its coz of less water in the radiator and coolant flush shd solve it, fingers crossed it shouldnt be a mjor problem,,also which is the best petrol for v35 250gt? im using shell v power at the moment

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Shell V-Power is fine.

If the car is tuned to burn rich, BP Ultimate can lessen carbon emission. But then again, V-Power formula has changed earlier this month - probably for the better.

JLM tends to open at 10am btw

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wow thanks all for the reply, ill be there first thing tomo morning,i just bought the car two days back, its gonna be my first servcing experience,im experiencing some engine heating up soon enough,, a mechanic told me its coz of less water in the radiator and coolant flush shd solve it, fingers crossed it shouldnt be a mjor problem,,also which is the best petrol for v35 250gt? im using shell v power at the moment

I hope they know how to bleed it correctly...

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though irrelevant to this topic lemme go ahead and ask this,, im finding it difficult to get insurance quote for my car in YOUI,GIO,ALLIANZ,AAMI , guess mainly because its an import from japan, which insurance is best suited?? any tips

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Did my servicing in JLM last saturday,,everyone was friendly and warm,, mitzo did diagnostics for my cars engine coolant over heating problem, while i did only the general service(engine oil, oil filter, air filter), the guys told me to wait for a while before spening on thermostat and coolant flush,

One other thing Adam quoted a price for thermostat change and coolant flush which was way more than quote price for the same work i go from pro concept ,pro works automotive,vimtech,,

Plannig to do a trip to katoomba , >80 kms from my place to see how the radiator and engine heating holding up,,, if it agains overheated and coolant gets spurted out , i will then go for thermostat change as well as coolant bleed, this is my plan for now,, please lemme know in case im wrong

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I used to be with NRMA for 2 years with my Stagea and they were ok but the prices just kept going up. I had a minor incident (not my fault) and they resolved it easily.

I'm now with Just car but never made a claim so not sure how they are to deal with in that regards.

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I'm dealing with Just Cars now after a random woman love tapped my passenger quarter panel.

Pretty smooth sailing except they want me to go to one of their "smart" shops where cars are done in two days... Some net research suggests they are run like prisons, do everything on the cheap and have a bad name in the industry. So, I'm not very keen, as I'm very fussy with any work

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  • 1 year later...

My 2004 V35 350GT Coupe just overheated last night, and dropped all it's coolant, but I cannot find the fault, (NRMA towed me home), however, this is the situation

1 - No leaks in the system (hoses and radiator are all fine)

2 - Head gasket is fine (plenty of power, oil cap clean, radiator cap clean, no smoke/steam from exhaust)

3 - Air con works intermittently (cold at first, then blows cool)

4 - Belts are all intact and no slipping

5 - NRMA refilled engine with coolant and advised the main thermatic fan was not cutting in (not starting), however the secondary fan does work when using the aircon.....

Note that the temp gauge in the dash doea not rise above 50%...??? even after idling for 20 minutes

I figure that there are numerous possibilities;

Stuck thermostat

Water pump failure

Thermatic fan failure (including loose harness, though this is low probablilty)

Coolant temp sensor failure

And now the big question......can anyone recommend a workshop in the Lower North Shore or Northern Beaches in Sydney?...I live near the Roseville Bridge....I'm tired of being ripped off.

Otherwise...it's off to Rydalmere!!

Mike

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My 2004 V35 350GT Coupe just overheated last night, and dropped all it's coolant, but I cannot find the fault, (NRMA towed me home), however, this is the situation

1 - No leaks in the system (hoses and radiator are all fine)

2 - Head gasket is fine (plenty of power, oil cap clean, radiator cap clean, no smoke/steam from exhaust)

3 - Air con works intermittently (cold at first, then blows cool)

4 - Belts are all intact and no slipping

5 - NRMA refilled engine with coolant and advised the main thermatic fan was not cutting in (not starting), however the secondary fan does work when using the aircon.....

Note that the temp gauge in the dash doea not rise above 50%...??? even after idling for 20 minutes

I figure that there are numerous possibilities;

Stuck thermostat

Water pump failure

Thermatic fan failure (including loose harness, though this is low probablilty)

Coolant temp sensor failure

And now the big question......can anyone recommend a workshop in the Lower North Shore or Northern Beaches in Sydney?...I live near the Roseville Bridge....I'm tired of being ripped off.

Otherwise...it's off to Rydalmere!!

Mike

Most likely the problem is simply the engine cooling system isn't bled properly. This causes an airlock which stops the coolant flow, the VQ only need to lose a cup of coolant to overheat.

Have you read the other threads relating to bleeding? There are plenty in the V and M35 sections. Seeing as these have water all the way around the bore a leak into the combustion chamber can easily cause your issue without contaminating the oil, even a carbon test on the radiator can be hit and miss, as the head gasket may only leak under load.

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Found the offending part, causing my overheating problems in my 2004 V35 350GT Coupe.

Changed the coolant temp sensor part no TCS-075, ($20 from eBay Supercheap Auto), and found the problem still existed.

Next, investigated if there was any electrical faults

Using a multimeter, verified continuity of wiring to the fans, and verified correct voltages going to both fans - check

Then checked the operation of the fan motor, by directly connecting fan to battery - Bingo!

The fan did NOT turn, unless you pushed the blades to start it off.

Removed the fan completely from the car, and verified again, and yes....I need a new fan.

Now there are aftermarket fans for around $40, which state "compatible" with Nissan 3.5L V6, but I'll try for genuine part is not too expensive, as they will definitely look better!! (apart from bolting directly on).

Can anyone give advice?

mikef56post-100767-0-49328000-1437789440_thumb.jpgpost-100767-0-82122000-1437789485_thumb.jpgpost-100767-0-02151800-1437789501_thumb.jpgpost-100767-0-40726000-1437789503_thumb.jpg

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Tried to obtain a replacement radiator fan motor today......no luck being a Saturday in Sydney.

So gave a bash at repairing the old one, and it worked!!

1 Remove fan motor from fan cowl and remove the fan blades

2 Using multigrips, bend back the "tabs" on the casing of the motor

3 Gently pull apart, and you'll see the four carbon bushes in their respective sleeves. In my first pic, you'll see that only one brush was pushed out by it's spring.....all four should be.

4 Gently pull out the remaining bushes, and clean out the sleeves completely....I used WD40 and sprayed into each of the four sleeves, then did the whole housing. Gently wiped with a clean soft cloth until clean and "dry"

5 Reassemble using paperclips to hold the bushes in their sleeves, and reattach the housing cover. Using a small hammer, tap the tabs back into place.

6 I tested the motor by connecting directly to the battery. Note there are dual circuits, so both should be tested.

post-100767-0-27505000-1437806320_thumb.jpg

post-100767-0-00056100-1437806730_thumb.jpg

post-100767-0-15016800-1437806749_thumb.jpg

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  • 9 months later...

After 11 months, the same problem occurred again.

I removed the fan motors to find the carbon brushes, "caked" stuck with black "sludge"........I think it was WD40 residue, mixed with carbon dust.

Soaked the assembly in unleaded, sprayed with copious amounts of degreaser, then a hot soapy water bath and rinse. Blow dry with hairdryer, reassembled and now my fingers are crossed. Didn't use any lubricants for assembly. This should work.

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