Jump to content
SAU Community

Canadian Bacon (R34 Gtt)


Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, I live over in Vancouver Canada and wanted to share with you my 1998 R34 GTT coupe.

Its been in hiding for a bit, but finally parts arrived, repairs and routine maintenance were taken care of, and back to inspection the car went. This time it passed perfectly, not a thing needed, and not an issue was made with the car.

The car came over in pretty good condition, was a grade 4. I spent about 3 days bringing the shine back into the paint, cleaning up emblems, door jams, under the hood etc.
at home waiting....for monthssss
IMG_8415_zps95038d36.jpg
repairs done, maintenance complete, time for alignment....
20140726_152451_zps399b24ae.jpg
20140726_1525321_zps06c580f0.jpg
inspection time, but first some pics of the new brakes
20140726_1720311_zpsf7729fb2.jpg
20140729_160342_zps2e33cd67.jpg
inspection passed, no plate yet, storage insurance for now.
20140729_160412_zps8c582b70.jpg
20140729_160404_zps72b1c85f.jpg
20140729_1603501_zpsdadacd12.jpg
Fully insured and legal, went for a nice drive through the mountains, such a pleasure to drive this car.
20140809_200015_zpscfecf4d3.jpg
20140809_195821_zps9ddfb5da.jpg
20140809_195803_zps8b799d2e.jpg
20140809_195854_zps91b28ce3.jpg
As for mods go the car is very stock, only mod it had was a HKS 3" high power cat back when I got it. But since I had to do a couple repairs I upgraded things while I was at it.
The car now has BC Racing 30 way adjustabe coilovers, stage 3 clutch, splitfire coilpacks, drilled+slotted rotors, 18X8 in the front and 18x10 in the rear (OZ racing 3 piece)
The motor was compression tested and leak down tested here Canada couple months ago, numbers came back really good 175-180 all cylinders, and there was pretty much no percentage of pressure change in the leak down either (very happy to have a healthy motor)
Most likely I will grab a tune shortly, a nistune one. But first I might go ahead and get a intake, intercooler, and open up that downpipe and remaining exhaust.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice car you will be very happy with a Nistune I got one and it was the best money I ever spent should be able to push the standard turbo up to 12psi. This thing would be a handful in them Canadian winters.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very nice, well done! Pics remind me again that I totally have to visit Canada one day..

When you're done with the first batch of mods a high flow is a good next level option, should get you up to around 250rwkw :) Do you guys have access to E85 or similar over there?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice car you will be very happy with a Nistune I got one and it was the best money I ever spent should be able to push the standard turbo up to 12psi. This thing would be a handful in them Canadian winters.

Nistune is on order should be here in a couple weeks :)

Our winters can be sketchy, but the R34 wont see any rain or snow, it will be stored.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very nice, well done! Pics remind me again that I totally have to visit Canada one day..

When you're done with the first batch of mods a high flow is a good next level option, should get you up to around 250rwkw :) Do you guys have access to E85 or similar over there?

we do have E85 over here, a place opened up last week that is selling it now!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good plan. That + Nistune + boost controller = 200rwkw on premium unleaded, assuming you've got a high flow cat and cat back exhaust.

For E85 you'll probably have do injectors and fuel pump too (go big enough to support later mods) that will give you another 30rwkw or so.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

they are, thats not camber though, thats a lack of.

do you not like the look of camber in the shot or that the wheels are a low offset?
(not a good or bad thing, just not sure what your refereing to)

Lower it and i recon the might squeeze in the gaurds, albiet needing maby a guard roll. will look good. but needs to be closer to the floor.

Edited by GH05T
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its just that I am old and cynical and reckon wheels & tyres should be designed to make the car go/turn/stop and not for stance/fitment. If you are setting cambers to make the tyre fit to my addled brain you are doing it the wrong way around. Equally it is out past the guard then it doesn't fit either. But as I said I am old and jaded so each to their own.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the wheels in the rear poke out a bit yes

But funny we are on this topic, I got the all the guards rolled today! I will get around to lowering the car back down now....it was up high because of our out of province inspection laws the car must pass to be road legal here in Canada.

If the wheels in the rear end up being to tight to the guards I can always take off the hub centric wheel spacers....

I will post new pics of the changes soon :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the pic in the first post is another car, and post 7 is OP's car with standard arms and swaybar swaybar swaybar. I can't tell what brand the silver coilovers are, and even if I could I don't know whether the spring rate is OK, if you can find a brand on the shocks and numbers on the springs that might help. Also, if you can measure the ride height from centre of your wheel to the guard that will help with advice too as handling suffers if ride height is too low
    • sadly, pics no work. that car must have spent a lot of time in a cryo bubble
    • In the first photo you posted, the colour of the control arms are the signature colour for Ikeya. Same for the swaybar, signature colour for Whiteline.  I like Hardrace, they also do hardened rubber bushes if your car is mainly a street car.  I like GKTech as well, but they use a lot of rose joints in their stuff so might not be the best choice for everyone.  The system might have been good back in its day, but it's a prehistoric system now. I suspect that most people have removed the HICAS as they want the car to do what they want to do, not what the car wants to do. From what I also understand, it isn't consistent in it's behaviour on track so it's hard to trust the car/know where its absolute limits are for track use.  Having said that, I think the HICAS eliminator kit was the first thing I installed when I bought my car. I don't personally have any experience with the HICAS system on a race track.  
    • Thanks for the info. Didn’t know I had aftermarket control arms already? Will talk to my garage. What brand would u recommend if I want to play around with my camber more? I would think my camber is around stock level right now or more negative now due to lowering with coilovers. I will be lower her again 1.5 cm to get some more.    also why does everyone like to remove the hicas system? Is it because most don’t work properly anymore or ppl just don’t like them. Mine is functioning as it should be right now.    thanks for the good info 
    • It looks like you've got Ikeya control arms and an aftermarket sway bar, maybe whiteline?  Or am I just going crazy? lol Unfortunately it won't, but what it will do is look really pretty. That's about all unfortunately.  How much neg camber do you currently have? Generally lowing the car dials in quite a bit of neg camber as it is. If you do go down this path, your best bet is get adjustable arms, toe arms (or preferably a good HICAS elimination kit) and traction rods. With all 3 being adjustable, you'll be able to dial out any bump steer that is introduced by playing with the camber settings. 
×
×
  • Create New...