Jump to content
SAU Community

Bolted On New Turbo And Car Drives Like Non Turbo

r34lyf

By r34lyf,
in Forced Induction Performance

 Share

Recommended Posts

r34lyf Apprentice

r34lyf

Posted
Posted

So i have a 2002 r34 gtt and i took off the stock turbo and bolted on a new turbo (link for turbo at bottom of post) and did a nice job of the pipes and hoses, made sure oil was running through the turbo nicely before starting, had to slightly rotate housing during instal i dont think that caused any issues such as the fins not spinning and started her up and went for a drive

I was absolutley gutted the car drives like a non turbo and iv notices a rattling sound coming through the exhaust any advice would be greatly appreciated.

turbo: http://www.redlineperformance.co.nz/products/turbos/nissan/trs4376s-turbo-480hp-nissan-skyline-rb25-bolt-on/

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Have you checked the shaft spin s freely by removing the intake pipe by hand?

It is not really a high quality turbo so the is a chance it Is a dud.

Edit.. It's scary they say you can use stock oil feed line. Bush bearing turbos need more oil flow, as the ball bearing turbos have a restrictors in the stock oil feed line, so it is very likely the turbo is not getting enough oil flow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Plattsy Grand Master

Plattsy

Posted
Posted

These TRS4376S Hybrid turbochargers are able to produce 480 hp equipped with the right supporting modifications

if you dont have any it will run like shit. you need an ecu and a tune at the very least.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
r34lyf Apprentice

r34lyf

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok so the Oil Feed in the new turbo has a restrictor bolt inside with a tiny hole and the bolt i used that came with it has a 3.4mm hole but it hits the inside restrictor.

il get the pics up in an hour, but i hooked the charcoal cannister to the plenum which goes onto the boost pressure sensor and theres a T at the cannister end that goes to the motor, maby powersteering?, as for the turbo outlet and the wastegate T's into a boost pressure solenoid and another hose comes from the solenoids top that goes nowhere atm i think its a bleed hose? maby it was hooked into the original frontmount pipe?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Plattsy Grand Master

Plattsy

Posted
Posted

you wont get f**k all. stock exhaust? stock dump? stock ecu?

if it does come on the ecu will shit itself and not know what the f**k is going on.

pop your stock one back on, buy the mods first, install them all trailer car to tuner and tune it.

then itll work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

oh for real?, i was certain boost was atleast supposed to come on

It should work but not ideally. Should still boost.

I put on a garret 3071 and drove it for two weeks (gently) before i had time to tune it. Even a little boosting, but obviously taking it easy.

Unless the wastegate flap somehow came off the actuator arm i would be worried the Turbo is dead. I would also be worried it's not getting enough oil.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

you wont get f**k all. stock exhaust? stock dump? stock ecu?

if it does come on the ecu will shit itself and not know what the f**k is going on.

pop your stock one back on, buy the mods first, install them all trailer car to tuner and tune it.

then itll work.

That's not true at all. As in previous post I should add I was still running stock exhaust and the car boosted fine with a 3071. Obviously I didn't hammer the car, but it definitely worked and definitely made boost.

Turbo went on first as I had and cess to a mates hoist at the time which made it heaps easier to do it t then.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
r34lyf Apprentice

r34lyf

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Im off to diagnose with 2 mechanics soon il repost if its shat the turbine whats a good turbo reccomendation, anything bolt on by any chance? do you reckon the engine is taken damage from the turbo failure? i drove about 10 mins

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By Duncan · Posted

      I think the pic in the first post is another car, and post 7 is OP's car with standard arms and swaybar swaybar swaybar. I can't tell what brand the silver coilovers are, and even if I could I don't know whether the spring rate is OK, if you can find a brand on the shocks and numbers on the springs that might help. Also, if you can measure the ride height from centre of your wheel to the guard that will help with advice too as handling suffers if ride height is too low
    • Duncan
      Manual Shifter slightly bounces/moves/vibrates when accelerating/deaccelerating

      By Duncan · Posted

      sadly, pics no work. that car must have spent a lot of time in a cryo bubble
    • Murray_Calavera
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      In the first photo you posted, the colour of the control arms are the signature colour for Ikeya. Same for the swaybar, signature colour for Whiteline.  I like Hardrace, they also do hardened rubber bushes if your car is mainly a street car.  I like GKTech as well, but they use a lot of rose joints in their stuff so might not be the best choice for everyone.  The system might have been good back in its day, but it's a prehistoric system now. I suspect that most people have removed the HICAS as they want the car to do what they want to do, not what the car wants to do. From what I also understand, it isn't consistent in it's behaviour on track so it's hard to trust the car/know where its absolute limits are for track use.  Having said that, I think the HICAS eliminator kit was the first thing I installed when I bought my car. I don't personally have any experience with the HICAS system on a race track.  
    • Sleepergm
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By Sleepergm · Posted

      Thanks for the info. Didn’t know I had aftermarket control arms already? Will talk to my garage. What brand would u recommend if I want to play around with my camber more? I would think my camber is around stock level right now or more negative now due to lowering with coilovers. I will be lower her again 1.5 cm to get some more.    also why does everyone like to remove the hicas system? Is it because most don’t work properly anymore or ppl just don’t like them. Mine is functioning as it should be right now.    thanks for the good info 
    • Murray_Calavera
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      It looks like you've got Ikeya control arms and an aftermarket sway bar, maybe whiteline?  Or am I just going crazy? lol Unfortunately it won't, but what it will do is look really pretty. That's about all unfortunately.  How much neg camber do you currently have? Generally lowing the car dials in quite a bit of neg camber as it is. If you do go down this path, your best bet is get adjustable arms, toe arms (or preferably a good HICAS elimination kit) and traction rods. With all 3 being adjustable, you'll be able to dial out any bump steer that is introduced by playing with the camber settings. 
×
×
  • Create New...