Where Can I Find A Nismo Or Equivalent Gearbox Mount For An Automatic R33?

[sonicz]

Looking at replacing my motor and gearbox mounts. I have decided on Nismo mounts or equivalent but I cant seem to find anything but a genuine replacement for the rear gearbox mount? Does Anyone make one? I don't like the idea of having stiff mounts for the engine but a soft sloppy gearbox mount.

Also does anyone know the where to get the the 4 rubber pads for the screws on the transmission cross member, I have 11248 as a part number but not sure they suit my car or where to get them.

Car is a 1998 R33 GTS-T.

[KiwiRS4T]

Just get new parts from Nissan. Will not be sloppy.

[sonicz]

I've decided on the the Nismo mounts, they are not that much more expensive and i hate drivetrain slop. Normal mounts are made for comfort not holding things in place as well as possible. I just want a stiffer nismo mount for the gearbox.

[GTSBoy]

Urethane options exist.

[hardsteppa]

even though the Nismo greabox mount says 'manual trans only' I can verify that it fits the auto, as I went thru the same thing as you about 6-8 months ago and just decided to order the Nismo mount anyway and see if it fitted rather than just use oem. I would suggest you look at the engine dampers like this

http://justjap.com/jjr-engine-damper-kit-nissan-skyline-ecr33.html if you don't have one already, made a big difference in reducing the 'slop', and making the auto more responsive to throttle.

[sonicz]

even though the Nismo greabox mount says 'manual trans only' I can verify that it fits the auto, as I went thru the same thing as you about 6-8 months ago and just decided to order the Nismo mount anyway and see if it fitted rather than just use oem. I would suggest you look at the engine dampers like this

http://justjap.com/jjr-engine-damper-kit-nissan-skyline-ecr33.html if you don't have one already, made a big difference in reducing the 'slop', and making the auto more responsive to throttle.

Wow, wow, wow?

Thanks a bunch for this information. So you are 100 % sure in saying I can order a regular ol' Manual only R33 Transmission mount such as this and It will fit on a 98 Auto?

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nismo-gearbox-mount-heavy-duty-nismo-nissan-skyline-r33-gts25-gts25t-r34-25gt-25gtt-gtv-5spd-p-87.html

I actually contacted both Kudos and nengun about it and they both said nothing exist for the auto and I have to use a genuine part. Nengun was actually a bit rude about it, "no one races an auto" etc and didnt even bother giving a shipping quote when requested.

Looks like I'll just order the part from kudos and let them know if anyone asks in the future the manual nismo fits the auto

"Daniel Power replied:

They were never made because its an automatic. No one ever races an auto around a track which the Nismo mounts were intended for.

If there is anything else I can help you with please don't hesitate to contact me.

Best Regards

Dan

We Now have the Greddy Boost con on sale http://www.nengun.com/greddy/profec-oled

We have over 5.8 Million Used parts Online and In stock

The largest New Parts Brands

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SEP 18, 2014 | 01:33AM JST

Thanks for the quick reply.

Do they even exist or were they never made? Do you have any other brand gearbox mounts for the Automatic ECR33 GTST that are similar to the Nismo items?

Lastly, could you quote me your price including the postage for 2 Nismo engine mounts + a Genuine OEM gearbox mount, to my Adress in Australia. I don't need fast shipping so quote me the lowest price option.

Thanks.

SEP 18, 2014 | 09:10PM JST

Daniel Power replied:

Sorry we only have manual Nismo ones and can only obtain Genuine OEM factory Nissan for automatic models

If there is anything else I can help you with please don't hesitate to contact me.

Best Regards

Dan

We Now have the Greddy Boost con on sale http://www.nengun.com/greddy/profec-oled

We have over 5.8 Million Used parts Online and In stock

The largest New Parts Brands

The Nengun Yahoo Auctions.

We bring you all this with the lowest prices"

Edited October 22, 2014 by sonicz

[hardsteppa]

I too was told these outrageous lies. But I don't know what else to tell ya, I have an R33 series 2 auto, and this part

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISMO-GEARBOX-TRANSMISSION-MOUNT-NISSAN-SKYLINE-ECR33-ER34-R33-R34-RB25-RB20-RWD-/220905653678?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item336f00c5ae

fits, even though it says manual only. I measured every point and couldn't find a difference.

Bought from the seller in the link too, $87 delivered and got it in like 5 days from JPN

[sonicz]

I too was told these outrageous lies. But I don't know what else to tell ya, I have an R33 series 2 auto, and this part

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISMO-GEARBOX-TRANSMISSION-MOUNT-NISSAN-SKYLINE-ECR33-ER34-R33-R34-RB25-RB20-RWD-/220905653678?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item336f00c5ae

fits, even though it says manual only. I measured every point and couldn't find a difference.

Bought from the seller in the link too, $87 delivered and got it in like 5 days from JPN

Ok I'm willing to take the risk if you have already done it and it fits fine, but.... Surely that ebay mount can't be genuine for that price? Look at all the negative feedback as well.

While Im getting the transmission mount replaced, is there any other bushes I can replace in the driveline that arent hard to change and could contribute to clunks and movement/moemntun in the driveline when going on gas/going off?

I already know about the engine damper and was planning to fit one as soon as the new bushes go in but thanks for mentioning it as well.

Edited October 22, 2014 by sonicz

[GTSBoy]

It's not really bushes and mounts that cause those clunks. I did all of them in my rear when I de-HICASed. No change. 5th gear low speed sounds like a metal fabrication workshop. It's all in the unis, CVs (tailshaft and driveshafts), diff gears, hub splines, gearbox output splines. It has to be in all of them, because I've been through the whole lot looking for backlash and there's only low-moderate amounts in each of them. Sum them together tho.....

[sonicz]

It's not really bushes and mounts that cause those clunks. I did all of them in my rear when I de-HICASed. No change. 5th gear low speed sounds like a metal fabrication workshop. It's all in the unis, CVs (tailshaft and driveshafts), diff gears, hub splines, gearbox output splines. It has to be in all of them, because I've been through the whole lot looking for backlash and there's only low-moderate amounts in each of them. Sum them together tho.....

Whilst I don't disagree with you, what I am getting on my 98 is definitely a bad transmission bush in addition to those things you mentioned or others. You can actually feel the weight of the entire transmission wallowing forward and back and I have a 93 to compare it to which doesnt do it anywhere near as much.

I just want to eliminate bushes as much as possible so i wanted to know if the diff bushes are worth doing. If its slop in metal components then so be it. I have been under the car and turned the drive shaft and there is a fair bit of free play in that...?

Having said that, my 1993 R33 GtS-t is a lot smoother than my my 1998 R33 of equal model. Almost no drivetrain slop, so its not really correct to think the "sum" of slop in metal components absolutely has to add up to that. I feel like the 93 is of much better build quality material wise than the 98. I have seen this common trend in the skylines and I have driven and seen over the years. The rubber bushes, metal parts etc and general wear tear, seem to hold up a lot better on the 1993 model, even though they are a lot older and have more Ks.

What I mean is just a general sense the quality of parts in the 98 are not as good as the 93. Some examples.

*Factory clear seems a lot thicker and longer lasting on 93 than 98.

*Engine bonnet rubbers just fell apart on the 98 on the 93 they aren't as bad.

*Rubbers around window hardened and fell apart a lot sooner on the 98

*I assume the same can be said for most rubber parts on the car.

*Interior quality seems better on 93

*engine seems hardier and smoother on 93.

*ditto to transmission and general drive train components.

Edited October 22, 2014 by sonicz

[GTSBoy]

If that were true, then my 1993 R32 with only 170000km and most of the driveline given a birthday should be awesome. But it clunks.

[hardsteppa]

Gtsboy are you saying that on a new car straight off the production line there would be no movement in the driveshafts, you wouldn't be able to turn by hand even a little. I've only ever owned old cars and they've all had it, i've never had or been under a brand new car to say myself. I'd thought there should always be some 'give' though to allow for expansion/ contraction, slight movement of components in driving etc

[GTSBoy]

No, not saying that. I was simply refuting the claim, based on his single data point from 1993 and single data point from 1998 that Nissan were making the cars better, with better parts in 1993. I did that by pointing out that my 1993 car behaves like his 1998 car.

I expect some backlash at every mechanical connection (except those that are bolted together,....you know what I mean), as any engineer would. I also expect the lash to possibly get worse as the car ages and mating surfaces wear. I would have liked to have found a single point under my car where the majority of the backlash is hiding, so I could fix it, but instead I find that each and every point in my car's driveline has maybe a bit more slop in it than you would like, but none of them are obviously bad enough to represent the whole, or at least the worst, of the slop. Ergo, the only logical conclusion is that it is the sum of the various slops that leads to the large overall amount of backlash and the clunking in the driveline.

When people post these threads (and for chrissake, there have been dozens of the f**kers) I usually point out all the places where the slop can occur, point out that it could be any one of them, and also point out that it might be none of them on their own, but possibly all of them at once, as written above.

[sonicz]

Hardsteppa, can you confirm if the ebay seller you posted above is a genuine nismo mount?. $87 is a lot cheaper than most places but not worth it of its a knock of, and there sure are lot of knock of parts around.

Gtsboy, have you ever tried changing the diff with a fresher one or a complete rebuild on the diff to see if that makes a difference? I get what your saying the sum of all the play in the parts ads up to a lot, but not all skylines are like this and I'm pretty sure when these cars were new it was not how they behaved.

As for the 93 vs 98 issue, not saying its fact, just what I have noticed, and you are comparing a r32 vs a r33. both my r33s are equivalent automatic turbo top spec models (hicas, diff etc), and I have also test driven and seen other peoples r33s over the years. My general feeling is the later models develop more wear and tear than the earlier models. Simple things like rubbers around window, engine bonnet rubber stoppers etc seem to wear quicker on the newer ones even though they are newer.

Also Don't forget in 1996-97 Japan went through a financial crisis and there were major cutbacks on cost of production accross most manufacturers. Even if the parts are the same design, a different grade of steel and composition of the parts etc to save money when possible could lead to different wear rates.

Edited October 23, 2014 by sonicz

[GTSBoy]

Yup. Diff built from S15 helical centre, new (2nd hand) 4.11 gears, bearings etc by proper diff workshop, all into my R32 housing. Diff whine went away (properly set up). Backlash remains.

[sonicz]

Weird. I'm assuming your engine mounts are fresh, and you've also looked at the tailshaft joints to see if that the problem?. Have you tried an engine damper (if your desperate its worth a shot i guess)

When you jack the car up and rotate the rear wheels, Handbrake on and off how many degrees of free rotation do you get?

[GTSBoy]

That's the point. My car had a fairly severe birthday last year when it got a new Neo, gearbox, Frankendiff, driveshafts, modified tailshaft, complete non-HICAS rear end with new bushes, engine and gearbox mounts.

Nothing changed in the clunk department. Nothing.

Trust me when I say that I and a very experienced mechanic have both been over every inch of the driveline looking for slop, and can only find moderate amounts at each possible point. It's annoying.

I'm not complaining in this thread. I'm pointing out that sometimes it cannot be found in one place.

[sonicz]

I have seen your posts over the years, I know your one of the most knowledgeable and mechanical competent guys on here. I can be a bit hard headed sometimes and I tend to point out things even though I don't always believe that's the case or I can fully stand behind it, but I think varied opinions and discussion are good.

That said, have you driven other peoples GTS-ts and how do they compare to yours in the clunk deparment? Surely that clunk has to come from somewhere and if its as simple as the sum of all parts then it follows that your skyline, with an owner such as yourself and after such a thorough overhaul, should be one of the tightest, and most other skylines should be much worse than yours in the clunk department, but are they really?. All I can tell you is my 93 definitely has a lot less sloppyness than my 98, and I wonder what the car was like when new.

Making such a thorough overhaul on yours, it should be as good or better than a out of the factory car, but is that really the case and if not surely there has to be something that can be done about it or something that has been overlooked, regardless of whether its worth it or not.

Edited October 23, 2014 by sonicz

[GTSBoy]

Oh, I absolutely agree. Car should be really tight. Just isn't. The funny thing is that the 5th gear roll on-off clunk gets worse as the car gets up to temperature. Cold gearbox and diff oil might mask it. The possibility that the helical gears in the diff are a bit worn has occurred to me, and so I'm always on the lookout for a replacement. The possibility that the gearbox needs an internal freshen up is there - but the problem there is that such freshen ups seldom include gears. Exploratory surgery would be needed.

I have driven others that are better, one or two that were a lot worse. My car isn't awful to drive, it's just annoying.

[Sinista32]

Without sticking my nose too far into this conversation

it may have more to do with the history of how the vehicle has been treated/driven, where it has been stored and what roads it travelled along with changes/modifications including power, rim & tire size/car height.

-----------------

Although I'd have to agree with Sonic and the saying "they don't build em like they used to"

I currently have an 89 GTSt (stock), 92GTR (built) and 2001 GTT (mild). So not a fair comparison due to models but

I have found The GTT is tinnier, interior is cheaper/tackier, steering, suspension components and mounts have worn out a lot faster, rubbers, seals and paintwork is worse for wear than the earlier models.