Cut/polish Fresh Acrylic Paint (Help?)

[JustinFormosa]

Hey guys,

So I've recently resprayed my r32 from Acrylic green/clear to Acrylic metallic black/clear and I'm now looking at cutting it back and polishing it up to bring out a nice reflection and the metallic flecks alittle more.

First off I'd like to say that this was my first time attempting painting anything that large before and also my first time using a compressor and gun for the job. The car was painted in a pop up car port so it was out of the whether, but obviously was not a booth job either. And there is a fair amount of orange peel in the paint and it probably wasn't applied the greatest due to trying to get the gun to spray correctly.

I've now started sanding back the car with first 1500, then 2000 grit paper, then using an orbital polisher at around 1000 rpm with wool pad and a cut and polish compound to bring out the shine. I'm noticing this is leaving some swirl scratches and is also not quite removing all the 2000 grit scratches either and isn't quite giving me the shine that paint should.

I'm wondering if anybody could help me out here in possibly giving some advice as to what products I should be using, maybe some tips and tricks as to the method and just some decent information from somebody thats worked with acrylic lacquer before. I can post up pictures of products I'm using and how the paint is looking too if need be. Any help would be appreciated fellas

[mxfly]

Some pics and exactly what compounds and polishes used would be great. Plus you need more than wool pads to get a better finish. Also run the machine a bit faster.

[ARTZ]

yeah sounds like all your products are worng...

give a list of what you're using....

Did you let the paint dry for a week or so...a couple of days at least

[JustinFormosa]

Pretty much the only compound I've been using is kitten cream cut and polish no. 2. And yes I have let the paint dry for a week at least.

What do you suggest I use instead, I'm aware the wool pad should only be used for heavy cutting, and then foam for finer stuff, or so I was told.

Here are some photos of how it is looking at the moment, apologies for the quality

Third image is how it started before cutting

[Hadouken]

You need to get some products that are much more aggressive.

Go out and get 3 grades of polish.

A course

Medium

Fine

I recommend menzerna. But if you don't want to wait for shipping then walk into to supercheap. They have the meguiars professional range.

Personally I wouldn't even use a wool pad. I hate them. I would use a firm pad and my most aggressive polish to get that paint up

[JustinFormosa]

Do you mean a firm foam pad? I'm also kind of concerned about taking too much paint off too.

Do you think I should still cut it back with 2000 grit paper before moving through the heavy, medium then light polishes? Should I get a different pad for each grade? Or can I wash the one pad?

[Hadouken]

Yes I mean the pads.

So like this.

Firm foam pad with course polish.

Medium foam pad with medium polish

Soft foam pad with finishing polish. (Usually a very light polish)

As far as that sandpaper goes. You need to test it out on a panel. See how much Orange peel you can remove without using sand paper.

You shouldn't need to worry that much. There should be a good few microns of clear on the car. Just take the bare minimum off

[JustinFormosa]

Oh I see, alright well I'll try that, I've heard the McGuires range is pretty good, hopefully I can get it back with just the cutting compound. Because sanding is taking forever. The orange peel is pretty bad though.

Above image is probably the worst.

[ARTZ]

you wont get orange peel out with a buff, you need to sand it out...whether or not you can sand it out all depends how thick you put the clear on...

I would be sanding down to 2500 or even 3000 with black.....sanding by hand sucks balls, If you have an DA sander, go to paint shop and ask for the foam sanding discs in 1500-3000 and do it that way...they are magical

megs 105 with a good wool pad should bring most of the Sanding marks out, only leavng you with some slight marring and maybe a few holograms, depending how good you are with a rotary...

Then use a DA wth a finishing cut compound and a medium light foam pad and it should be almost perfect...

Edited October 18, 2014 by ARTZ

[JustinFormosa]

I agree with you there I didn't think I'd be able to get that amount of orange peel out without sanding, where do you recommend I go to get those sanding discs, I went to inspirations paint (where I got my paint and other supplies) and they didn't have any. They sound like the way to go because sanding by hand is a pain to say the least.

Im assuming I should be able to get that McGuires 105 at supercheap?
Also what is a DA?

The process I'm thinking should be the best will be to:
1500 rotor sand.
2000 rotor sand.
3000 rotor sand.
Heavy cut with wool pad
Fine polish with fine foam pad.

How do I go about waxing or protecting the paint?

[gtr0321994]

Sealant then wax after done with the stuff done above try waxit.com.au they sell sanding disc

[ARTZ]

you shouldn't wax fresh paint as It needs time for solvents to leech out...give it a few months before applyng a wax...

sand disc could get online, but find an auto paint supplier in your area should have them

DA. = dual action polisher...or random orbital...you probably used one to sand the car back..

Or did you do it all by hand

[JustinFormosa]

I did actually do it all by hand.. even though I have an orbital sander, I couldn't find discs anywhere, I'll have a look at a few more paint shops for the discs. And comment back here after I give the above process a go, then hold off on the sealent/wax for a month or so. Appreciate the comments and tips guys

[D.I.Y. Mik]

I just did this......

First ill say Youtube for expert sanding and buffing tips and techniques.

And the paint shop where the paint is from for good advice for buffing that particular paint.

Lots of work. There are no shortcuts.

2 weeks for a good cure with acrylic.

An orbital will strip off the paint, use a D/A if your experienced or do it by hand.

Only sanding will get rid of the orange peel.

Go easy on the buffing pads, the first buff takes a lot of work to get rid of the sanding marks, which flogs and destroys pads. Get two pads for the coarse compound.

"Machine grade cutting compund" worked well, far better than the Menzerna fg500.

LISTEN to the experts on Youtube and follow their advice, like be careful on edges etc.

Good light to see how its going, and you wont have to go back to fix sht. My biggest mistake, and wasted heaps of time.

And after all that, mine is still a piece of sht, it just looks nice. Thats why i have the polished turd pic.

Edited October 18, 2014 by D.I.Y. Mik

[JustinFormosa]

Ahaha okay I see,

I don't have a DA sanded so I guess elbow grease is going to be the next best thing. Might get it down as best I can by hand with 2k grit then see if I can find some 3k paper somewhere or pads.

Then go ahead with a heavy compound and firm pad. (I'll get 2 as suggested) then a finishing polish with medium/soft pad.

I'll hit up my paint shop and see what they can supply, didn't look like they had Megs there at all. Just some other generic looking stuff.

Thanks for your advice, I'm thinking also, once I get it down with 2000 would it be worth while getting someone to detail it. If there's anybody on here that is good with paint I'm on the Gold Coast. How much would a detailed be looking at roughly to get it from 2000grit sanded to "doesn't look like a crappy home job" quality?

[D.I.Y. Mik]

As long as you sanded the black smooth before the clear...... Right? Then one more light coat before clear?

Otherwise the orange peel will be too deep to remove without sanding through the clear.

Or its going to be lots of sanding, right back to smooth, then spray again.

Dont worry about brand for the first cut/polish, "Machine grade cutting compound" works well on acrylic.

Because acrylic is softer than 2pack, it will buff differently. You need to take your time. It doesnt buff easily, but it is damaged easily.

Remember to not let the pads get hot, with two you can let one cool down and use the other. You can destroy a pad in 2 panels if your not careful.

What do the experts on Youtube say about sanding black? i thought it was 2000. or was that before finish coat? i cant remember.

Anyway good on you for painting it. Most people are afraid to have a go.

Ps: wet sanding is best.

Edited October 20, 2014 by D.I.Y. Mik

[JustinFormosa]

All I've been doing is wet sanding haha I find it easier. Although it's messy haha.

I didn't sand the color before clear because it's a metallic so would have sanded all those flecks that were standing up and it wouldn't be as prominent, according to the guy at the paint shop I wasn't meant to.

I've wet sanded a few of the panels back with 2000 grit then used a cut and polish and they look decent but not amazing.

I am careful with the buffer, always keep it moving and be careful on edges and stuff I've watched a fair few videos, I guess it's just a matter of getting some better product and pads to get the shine out.

I never expected it to be amazing but now that's I've done it I want to get it as good as it can be.

[D.I.Y. Mik]

Good, take your time.

The idea with the colour is to spray 5 or 6 coats, let it dry, sand the orange peel off, and then spray one more of colour for the metallic, and then 5 or 6 of clear.

Too late, but next time.......

[JustinFormosa]

Aw well, in hindsight there probabaly a lot I could have done for it to come out better.

Unfortunately I'm crazy busy with uni at the moment but once holidays start I'll be able to get into It and see how good I can get it.

I'll keep this thread updated with pictures along the way.

Thanks for your advice again guys

[BakemonoRicer]

Scholl concepts is the best. I personally use this compound / polish and have gotten show quality results.

Talk to Antonio from waxit and he will point you in the right direction.