Jump to content
SAU Community

Requirements For Rb25Neo Vct To Activate?


The_MuffinMan25
 Share

Recommended Posts

I have 1 log recorded of my VCT actually working on my car. Otherwise it never does. I have no speed signal to my ECU just the tach.

thru nistune I set the minumum vtc enable speed to 0 so should be fine.

I didnt realize the ecu grounded the signal for the VCT to operate when I first wired it up. I had wired the brown wire to a ground assuming the ecu provided a 5v or 12v signal to the vct plug.

Infact the only run I have with the variable timing logged working is with it hooked up the incorrect way.

Once I realized the brown wire was a 12v and not a ground I changed the wiring but this made no difference.

I can hear the solenoid click if i rev up the car.

Is there a way to test if the solenoid is bad? I had 1 die on me [oil seeped from inside the solenoid into the plug]

The log I have saved with the vct working the timing will drop to 19° timing at full boost and be running flawlessly

without it working it goes to ~23°

Thanks For ANY input

Tim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I guess you could wind the solenoid out and ground the wire and see if it moves.

If you set the enable speed to 0 then surely it won't change? What is the disengage speed set at?

Why do you not have a speed signal to your ecu?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe I used the wrong sandwich plate as well. Used one piece instead of two piece.  
    • Y'know what, after reading a topic on a 360kw build using a nistune (who ended up going LINK), im now considering a LINK over a nistune. The engine protection alone would probably be worth it. And id like to learn to tune so would be nice to have that safe guard. Which means i probably wont need a boost controller then, or the R35 MAF.  Becoming a bit of a blog now but oh wells. As mentioned previously, the goal is around 300kw, for a daily driver. Will be looking at fitting a highflow turbo or similar (something that doesnt require downpipes, manifolds etc to be changed out) when the current stock gives out or the money for it is there. 
    • Thanks guys. Are you meant to tighten the converter bolts through the starter motor hole? Think my plate between gearbox and engine is one piece. Im heading up there tomorrow.
    • Picked my tailshaft up yesterday arv!! Test fit it and because they've gone to a ford centre bearing and CV I had to modify the mounting bracket a little bit. 5mm of each side and she went up into position and fits well. It has a 1350 uni and flange on the gearbox end so it should be plenty strong!  Got stuck in this morning and started on the wiring mess. Cut out all the wires not required that go to the body connector and cut the engine harness out. Need to go through and work out which ones I need to keep and rewire into the new ecu. Should save a small amount of weight as well. I'd love to get in and rip the dash and everything out to completely remove wiring but cbf.  Next up was the power harness for alternator, starter etc. It has a few connectors from factory that run out of it. Cut it all apart and removed what was no longer required and put some new corro and taped it all back up and bolted it all back into place.  After that I worked out where I can mount the new flex sensor. Found a couple of factory bolt holes and drilled a new hole on the bracket to suit. Need to go get a few fittings and adapters tomorrow so I can keep going.   
    • Nah, im after the more newer looking, one with the OLED display
×
×
  • Create New...