Jump to content
SAU Community

Installed Apexi Power Fc D-Jetro, Engine Starts And Immediately Stalls.


Ramius83
 Share

Recommended Posts

Ok ok, before you flame me, I have read the Power FC FAQs. This is an Apexi Power FC D-Jetro for and RB26/30 in an S14. Engine starts and idles fine with the stock ECU, plug in the Power FC, and it just starts and immediately dies. I have turned the boost control feature off. I am using 1000cc injectors and have set the injectors to 44%. I am using the GM 3 bar map sensors, which have not been calibrated in the hand controller because apparently I need a dataloggit. I have the signal wires of the map sensors going into pins 27 (black wire) and 35 (orange wire). I have checked all power and ground connections, all are ok. Anyone have any incite into this? Would be greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The map sensor not being calibrated is the problem.

Being the sensor used to determine load how do you expect the power fc to know what's going on with the engine with it not calibrated?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yuh, it's like hooking the PFC up to the bench vice in your shed and expecting it to work.

mine worked fine when I did this. but it had a random cough so I replaced it with a haltech

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought it should still start though as load is also determined by TPS input. And I thought it silly that the Power FC NEEDS to have those sensors hooked up and calibrated just to start and idle. But I guess with it being older technology, it is what it is.

What if a sensor goes bad when starring the car 300 miles from home? That would suck lol......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought it should still start though as load is also determined by TPS input. And I thought it silly that the Power FC NEEDS to have those sensors hooked up and calibrated just to start and idle. But I guess with it being older technology, it is what it is.

What if a sensor goes bad when starring the car 300 miles from home? That would suck lol......

Like any car if the main load sensor fails the car typically won't run.

It's nothing to with being old. Load is a function of the map sensor influenced by throttle position. how can you think it's silly it doesn't work without its main sensor?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got a Datalogit installed and changed the MAP PIM scale and offset numbers on option 1. Changed to 6630 and 0 (off the top of my head) and she still just cuts off immediately after it catches during start up. Any ideas now?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have had little luck getting my engines to start on the base maps for the d-jetro. I found it best to completely do away with the base map in the ECU, and start again from scratch. Its pretty easy to do once you get the engine to idle. To do that though you need to know how to set it up.

Turn on a watch in the datalogit, and watch Injector MS. Make note of what it is doing during initial starting and when it stalls out. See if it goes to <2ms or even zero.

Having a wideband O2 can help too, as you can see if it goes super lean before cutting out.

Finally there is the fuel/ignition lockout method. Set all your fuel base MS to 2.00ms for the 1200 RPM and below range, and ignition at 20 degrees for the same range. This will allow your MAP sensor to be ignored and essentially locks your fuel/ignition delivery with fixed values to allow you to get the car to idle.

Start the car, and note the O2 meter (if you have one). Increase the fuel MS for the locked out range gradually if need be (if it keeps stalling out). Once its running properly, you will be able to determine what the load point is that the MAP sensor will operate at when idling.

Then break out a timing light and set your base ignition to 20 degrees, and adjust your fuel again to get it idling nice. If you have no wideband, you can reduce fuel little by little for the idle load point while watching RPM. Keep reducing fuel while RPM increases until it stops increasing. Then add about 0.1ms.

Once you have it idling, you can adjust your MAP sensor Offset value such to put the idle load point at the second from the bottom load range. Turn on another watch, and monitor the PIM value. Use this value to modify the offset for the Map sensor to move the load point. Engines with stock cams will pull a -18inHG vacuum, so the second from the bottom load point is a good place to set it too. Larger cammed engines will have less vacuum, so set it at the 3rd load point for those.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my suggestion

1. perform DATA INIT

2. turn car off

3. turn car to ON, but don't start it

4. set map sensor settings via datalogit (or hand controller)

5. set boost kit off

6. check SENSOR SW CHECK and make sure no sensors are black highlighted

7. start car and perform self idle adjust process (this is documented in the FAQ)

then it should be stable and it should idle

note the self idle adjust is meant to run for 30 minutes......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the pic in the first post is another car, and post 7 is OP's car with standard arms and swaybar swaybar swaybar. I can't tell what brand the silver coilovers are, and even if I could I don't know whether the spring rate is OK, if you can find a brand on the shocks and numbers on the springs that might help. Also, if you can measure the ride height from centre of your wheel to the guard that will help with advice too as handling suffers if ride height is too low
    • sadly, pics no work. that car must have spent a lot of time in a cryo bubble
    • In the first photo you posted, the colour of the control arms are the signature colour for Ikeya. Same for the swaybar, signature colour for Whiteline.  I like Hardrace, they also do hardened rubber bushes if your car is mainly a street car.  I like GKTech as well, but they use a lot of rose joints in their stuff so might not be the best choice for everyone.  The system might have been good back in its day, but it's a prehistoric system now. I suspect that most people have removed the HICAS as they want the car to do what they want to do, not what the car wants to do. From what I also understand, it isn't consistent in it's behaviour on track so it's hard to trust the car/know where its absolute limits are for track use.  Having said that, I think the HICAS eliminator kit was the first thing I installed when I bought my car. I don't personally have any experience with the HICAS system on a race track.  
    • Thanks for the info. Didn’t know I had aftermarket control arms already? Will talk to my garage. What brand would u recommend if I want to play around with my camber more? I would think my camber is around stock level right now or more negative now due to lowering with coilovers. I will be lower her again 1.5 cm to get some more.    also why does everyone like to remove the hicas system? Is it because most don’t work properly anymore or ppl just don’t like them. Mine is functioning as it should be right now.    thanks for the good info 
    • It looks like you've got Ikeya control arms and an aftermarket sway bar, maybe whiteline?  Or am I just going crazy? lol Unfortunately it won't, but what it will do is look really pretty. That's about all unfortunately.  How much neg camber do you currently have? Generally lowing the car dials in quite a bit of neg camber as it is. If you do go down this path, your best bet is get adjustable arms, toe arms (or preferably a good HICAS elimination kit) and traction rods. With all 3 being adjustable, you'll be able to dial out any bump steer that is introduced by playing with the camber settings. 
×
×
  • Create New...