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A Few Small Question Regarding My Upcoming Efr Build..


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Hey guys,

I just spoke with my mechanic and we had a few ''disagrement'' on a few stuff so I'm curious what other would do in my situation or if you already tried it and could give your input.

Basicly, the build is a RB26 with a EFR 83/74 EWG plumb back with Type-R cam and all the usual add-ons.

Car will be daily driven in downtown commute.

1) Spark plug, I wanted to go NGK BKR7E-11 and he told me it might not be enough. I believe he was talking about enought cold.

2) Oil pump ; I wanted to go stock pump 81mm with reimax gear locktite the plate and shim the pressure relief. He prefer I go with a nismo,reimax or tomei pump.. but then.. you need bigger sump, so he tell me to get the greddy.. then why not do a drain back with hose..

I agree it might be the best thing to do, but at 3000$ more, I'm not sure it's needed for a daily driven downtown commute car that will barley do any drag and circuit stuff. I'M pretty sure the reimax gear can handle my type of driving. Also, I don't like the gredyd extended pan, i'm scared to break it when hitting pothole ( I live in a winter country)

3) Injector, I want to go ID1000 with stock fuel rail and my actual walbro 450lph . he recommanded me to go twin 044 pump, surge tank with lines and custom rail.. I honestly think it's over-rated for my application. I was doing 570whp with sard 700cc and stock setup with nismo fuel reg..Surely, I could strech an extra 75-100whp with this kind of setup with bette rinjector. Whats your thought ?? ON top, I don't really have space in my trunk for that kind of setup.

4) I wanted to go with the hi-octaine air/oil separator to free up some space in my engine bay. would you feel confident just running this setup with a mines cam baffle or would you still run an external (vent to atmo) catch-can ?

5) Finally, I used to run a 3 inch exhaust and made 570 with a pair of -5s. It seems to be breathing nicely. My setup was ; Vibrant ultra quiet resonator, magnaflow 3 inch straight pipe muffler with a Varex muffler 3 inch.

Because I do downtown driving, I like a ''quiet exhaust''. So this time I decided to go 4 inch muffler as a cat-replacement, with a HKS Hyper 90mm rear muffler + a 90mm varex. He scared it might be too restrictive.. saying I should remove one muffler and only run 2. Or maybe I could run 2 + a resonator. He said, every muffler you add, you restrict the flow by about 100whp.

6) Also wanted a 4 inch dump pipe considering I was going to plumb back my EWG. First, he dont like the idea of plumb back the EWG, but I'm scared I will hate the loud sound of the EWG. Surely, a few of you must 've drove a EWG setup, how was it ?

Thanks for your help, will report back with result for everyone wondering :)

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Wow that's quite a few disagreements! So we are talking about a 500 kw at the wheels build?

2. If you do need a bigger sump the Racefab sump (from Christchurch NZ) offers better clearance.

3. For a street car you don't want two Bosch 044s - they are so noisy. You may need two intank pumps - not sure the Walbro is good for 500kw. If you do need a surge tank you could find a location under the car.

4. Read the oil control thread on this site (or at least the last ten pages). You will need at least a catch can possibly with an air/oil separator but plumbed back into the turbo intake, not vented to atmosphere.

5. You want a 4in system right through, not narrowing to 90mm anywhere. I would run a central resonator with a muffler at the end but you might want two mufflers. With the right mufflers it should not be too loud.

6. Of course you should plumb your wastegate into the exhaust for a street car.

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6) Also wanted a 4 inch dump pipe considering I was going to plumb back my EWG. First, he dont like the idea of plumb back the EWG, but I'm scared I will hate the loud sound of the EWG. Surely, a few of you must 've drove a EWG setup, how was it ?

lol hate the sound of EWG? thats the best part about the having a modified turbo setup vent to atmo plumping it back is gay car sounds like another stock car.

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I find it funny to think a car making 500kw would sound gay cos of a plumed back waste gate.

Plumb it back. Going fast is about going fast. 500rwkw doesn't need to draw more attention.

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Your way is so so, his way takes out all the issues that may present themselves, this of course costs money that some people see as unneccessary.

I certainly wouldnt be shimming the oil pump relief, its very much based on guess work, once the engines sump is on your stuck with the shim you have picked, Tomie pumps are externally adjustable which is really good.

A bigger sump is always recommended with more oil flow which your shimming will do, a correctly sized restictor in the block will limit the amount of oil that struggles to return back down to the sump, regardless of the pump you run or mods to your pressure relief valve.

You could go your way and save a packet, however if the oil pressure relief is wrong its a engine back out job, and anything else you do thats a restriction or wrong will have to be done twice to correct it.

Dont skimp on the oil pump and larger sump and block restictor.

The rest will be easy enough to handle on the fly once the engine is built as its all accesable.

Its not hard to upgrade the injectors, exhaust and change plugs when issues arrise once its built so maybe comprimise, do the engine internally his way, externally your way which can be corrected if need be.

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I find it funny to think a car making 500kw would sound gay cos of a plumed back waste gate.

Plumb it back. Going fast is about going fast. 500rwkw doesn't need to draw more attention.

Thats the thing wheres the enjoyment of a car that has power and doesnt sound like it goes. For me personally ill never have a modded turbo car or any v8 etc. And make it have power then try and make it sound as stock as possible ruins the whole experience. Its not like your on gate the whole time drawing attention depends where you choose to let loose.
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Wow that's quite a few disagreements! So we are talking about a 500 kw at the wheels build?

2. If you do need a bigger sump the Racefab sump (from Christchurch NZ) offers better clearance.

3. For a street car you don't want two Bosch 044s - they are so noisy. You may need two intank pumps - not sure the Walbro is good for 500kw. If you do need a surge tank you could find a location under the car.

4. Read the oil control thread on this site (or at least the last ten pages). You will need at least a catch can possibly with an air/oil separator but plumbed back into the turbo intake, not vented to atmosphere.

5. You want a 4in system right through, not narrowing to 90mm anywhere. I would run a central resonator with a muffler at the end but you might want two mufflers. With the right mufflers it should not be too loud.

6. Of course you should plumb your wastegate into the exhaust for a street car.

Thanks for your input,

We managed 575whp without running out of fuel with that fuel pump. So, I hope that same pump coul pump out another 75whp before maxing out. Well, I hope it will work haha !

4. Will read that thread very soon. We had a fair share of blow-by in the intake piping back then, then we went atmo and it was obviously better. but we could also plumb back in the exhaust, I guess.

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lol hate the sound of EWG? thats the best part about the having a modified turbo setup vent to atmo plumping it back is gay car sounds like another stock car.

oh well, guess I will be driving a gay car for 2015 :)

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Your way is so so, his way takes out all the issues that may present themselves, this of course costs money that some people see as unneccessary.

I certainly wouldnt be shimming the oil pump relief, its very much based on guess work, once the engines sump is on your stuck with the shim you have picked, Tomie pumps are externally adjustable which is really good.

A bigger sump is always recommended with more oil flow which your shimming will do, a correctly sized restictor in the block will limit the amount of oil that struggles to return back down to the sump, regardless of the pump you run or mods to your pressure relief valve.

You could go your way and save a packet, however if the oil pressure relief is wrong its a engine back out job, and anything else you do thats a restriction or wrong will have to be done twice to correct it.

Dont skimp on the oil pump and larger sump and block restictor.

The rest will be easy enough to handle on the fly once the engine is built as its all accesable.

Its not hard to upgrade the injectors, exhaust and change plugs when issues arrise once its built so maybe comprimise, do the engine internally his way, externally your way which can be corrected if need be.

Shimming the pressure relief was just an idea to have a higher pressurelike the N1 does but with the increased strength of the oem oil pump gear ( 77mm vs 81mm).

See, I drove my well-tuned -5s built with occasional drag night ( -5s produce what ? 430-450kw right ?) and a N1 pump ( which some would say that its a POS pump worth-nothing) and after 20 000 kms, no oil problem at all. So that was my thinking behind my OEM pump + reimax gear. If I don't change the way I drive the car ( i.e: I don't beat the shit out of it, i set the rev limiter at 7.5k and barely ever launch it or if i do, its like a 4k dump), the extra 50kw or so power should be handled by the stronger reimax gear.

I totally get what you means. I will surely been thinking about it. Honestly, fact that I'm going with an expensive EFR setup means that I'm not willing to '' cheap out'' on the built. But I don't want to make it more complicated either ( i.e: bad weld, sump lower get cracked, leaked hose, bad setup regarding the drain back. etc.) I've seen a few story of people running out of oil too..

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Never I mean never cheap out on the oiling issues on a RB engine.

I heard of one build he did remax gears engine failed. He did it again engine failed (well bearings failed).

He did HKS pump and it has never failed again.

when running massive power even on the street run a good pump - I use Tomei as it is the best. I would recommend.

it would only take a split second for that gears to fail on a standard pump even with upgraded gears to run the bearings and cause another pull down.

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Never I mean never cheap out on the oiling issues on a RB engine.

I heard of one build he did remax gears engine failed. He did it again engine failed (well bearings failed).

He did HKS pump and it has never failed again.

when running massive power even on the street run a good pump - I use Tomei as it is the best. I would recommend.

it would only take a split second for that gears to fail on a standard pump even with upgraded gears to run the bearings and cause another pull down.

what sump model you are running ? That's anothe thing I was wondering yesterday when shopping for sump, theres so many modded custom sump out there, who I am to decided which model/design is best for my application ? Obviously any of these fabricator wants to tell you their sump is best.

Right now, I fogot to mention, I'm running a tomei baffle and a tomei oil restrictor with my N1+ crank collar and catchcan setup.

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I have a greddy but yeah it doesnt clear alot of ground. But your car shouldnt be silly low anyway or you wont corners very fast on open roads.

it is not an issue on speed bump as your wheels lift it up anyway.

I would look at the racefab one though.

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I find it funny to think a car making 500kw would sound gay cos of a plumed back waste gate.

Plumb it back. Going fast is about going fast. 500rwkw doesn't need to draw more attention.

THIS! Gate is ghey! Plumb it back!

Blokes like you with stupid loud shitboxes ruin it for the guys who try playing by the rules!

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THIS! Gate is ghey! Plumb it back!

Blokes like you with stupid loud shitboxes ruin it for the guys who try playing by the rules!

lmao you must be getting old if gate is to loud for you, the shitbox is when car sounds like a camry not when you hear a ripped rb or 2j sound like its about to rip someones head off cracking gate letting the whole suburb know its there, your driving the wrong sort of car. Your crying gate is gay now but you all lose it when someone posts a video of there car with big power launching down the road screaming.

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I have to agree with Mico.. External gates make the car sound shit.. The gate is generally so loud that the turbo spool can't even be heard.

I have both my gates plumbed in and the car makes plenty of power and response, is legal and still sounds like a screaming jet

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Lol so an RB or 2J sound like shit or camrys without gate? You must be deaf from all that gayte brah?

As Joey said whats wrong with some nice induction noise & a nice rumbling RB noise?

Maybe you're driving the wrong car ;)

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lmao you must be getting old if gate is to loud for you, the shitbox is when car sounds like a camry not when you hear a ripped rb or 2j sound like its about to rip someones head off cracking gate letting the whole suburb know its there, your driving the wrong sort of car. Your crying gate is gay now but you all lose it when someone posts a video of there car with big power launching down the road screaming.

Gate sounds shite 99% of the time

But you like drifting, so it doesn't suprise me, that you like gate.

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Lol so an RB or 2J sound like shit or camrys without gate? You must be deaf from all that gayte brah?

As Joey said whats wrong with some nice induction noise & a nice rumbling RB noise?

Maybe you're driving the wrong car ;)

Running decent cams and a reasonably loud exhaust you get that nice rumbling RB noise. You get the induction and spooling noise coming on to boost. Then you crack gate and you get ear porn.

post-84937-14254320886106_thumb.jpg

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