Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Hypergear Highflow - What Boost To Run?

ausdrift

By ausdrift,
in Forced Induction Performance

 Share

Recommended Posts

ausdrift Experienced

ausdrift

Posted
Posted

Ok, before peoples panties get twisted into oblivion, hear me out. The Hypergear turbo thread currently has 10953 REPLIES and 548 pages and so its a bit much to ask for me to read through them all to find my answer. It would take weeks.

Here it goes.

I have a Rb25det R33 with FMIC, oil cooler, full exhaust and a new highflow Hypergear turbo. I'm later planning to get fuel pump, Z32 AFM and nistune upgrades, but until then I'll be driving it around as is. Im currently on standard boost as Im not sure what's safe to run (and yes, for best results I should take it to a dyno, I know).

My very simple questions for those who have trodden the same path is, what boost can I run this combo of parts SAFELY before I run out of air and or fuel and damage my engine?

Help from those who have done this is much appreciated.

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites
STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

you need injectors and afm, nistune are great (we are one of their biggest customers) but not on r33, go powerfc. We pull 2 or 3 nistunes out of r33 a month that have been tuned elsewhere that just dont perform right. The dont work properley as you have to retro fit another ecu from R32 or Z32 into the r33, there are certain background trims that can play havoc that are not adjustable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ssxRicho Grand Master

ssxRicho

Posted
Posted

Nistune is the worst thing you could do. I've run out of fingers to count the number of 33's in the pits not working because of 'something' wrong with the car running nistune.

I's get a pfc asap and get it tuned. It's not if, but when the engine will let go when it's underload and on boost.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Blackkers Experienced

Blackkers

Posted
Posted

I ran that turbo on the standard ecu until I had it tuned. It ran like shit on 10psi with an r32 actuator so I fitted the standard actuator and it was fine. Not great to drive though

Link to comment
Share on other sites
AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted (edited)

I know someone that's running one on 12psi and pulling hard too, no problems but don't know how long that will last, yes I know pretty silly and ive told them too, it has a mines ecu which is probably running very rich, its a rocket though!!

Edited by AngryRB
Link to comment
Share on other sites
ausdrift Experienced

ausdrift

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So Status, Power FC would be the best for an R33? As its a street car keeping everything working smoothly for day to day use would be my priority, with a good, safe tune being a very close second.

I knew that R33s required a different approach with nistune, but if its going to be an unreliable solution, then sure, best to avoid.

The turbo has the OEM wastegate still on it and I recon, with what people are saying, I'm going to keep it at stock boost. Damn, my shopping list for parts is growing tho.

Ahh, cars....

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Blackkers Experienced

Blackkers

Posted
Posted

nistune is fine if you use a Z32 or R32 ecu and is probably cheaper than a PFC if you're looking 2nd hand

beware with the R32 ECU you will need an external switch for VCT as the R32 RB20det and RB25de didn't have VCT

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

nistune is fine if you use a Z32 or R32 ecu and is probably cheaper than a PFC if you're looking 2nd hand

beware with the R32 ECU you will need an external switch for VCT as the R32 RB20det and RB25de didn't have VCT

I'm pretty sure the nistune update has allowed vct to be controlled by either the led light output or air con output with a 32 ecu.
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

I'm pretty sure the nistune update has allowed vct to be controlled by either the led light output or air con output with a 32 ecu.

still buggy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ausdrift Experienced

ausdrift

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Emailed Stao after getting and fitting the turbo and never got a reply. I also think its best to get some real world information before approaching a tuner, hence asking for all your opinions.

And on that, do we think that Power FC is the best/ a good approach for tuning an R33 to be a reliable street car (with all the various needs and functions of a street car; cold start etc etc) or are there other popular brands/models to consider?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted

Emailed Stao after getting and fitting the turbo and never got a reply. I also think its best to get some real world information before approaching a tuner, hence asking for all your opinions.

And on that, do we think that Power FC is the best/ a good approach for tuning an R33 to be a reliable street car (with all the various needs and functions of a street car; cold start etc etc) or are there other popular brandsMelbourne goto see o consider?

I dont think i have received your email.

I can supply adaptronic plug in at a special price if interested. If u r in Melbourne goto see chequred tuning.

Make sure u have fuel mods, 3 inches metal induction pipe, pod, good fmic, 3inches free flow tubo back exhaust and a good clutch before going for tuning.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Walbro 460 in r32 gtr

      By Duncan · Posted

      I've been running a 525 for years with the standard hat and FPR in the stagea (mine has a 32 gtr fuel rail and stagea and 32 hat and tank setup are the same) without an issue with base fuel pressure. You said when you disconnected the return it is OK, did you do so at the fuel rail or the fuel hat? Either way I'd be looking for blockages or in the case of the tank kinks in the lines downstream Note I did however have an issue with the current required for the 460 melting the fuel hat.
    • portaz
      Walbro 460 in r32 gtr

      By portaz · Posted

      I'm trying to maintain stock appearance . Hicas is still installed (although has lockout kit) did you retain factory fuel pump hat? If so I assume you used a bulkhead fitting or similar ?  I was also trying to avoid a full re design as it was previously dynoed at 426kw atw with same setup but different pump. Changing return line would also mean having to change ethanol sensor and fpr and possibly fuel rail. Not chasing more power in any way just reliability of the setup 
    • Chris_Guthrie
      Misfire/stalling issues

      By Chris_Guthrie · Posted

      I do think it's weird I had it for 2 weeks then the issue came up out of nowhere and progressively got worse. I would've imagined changing everything in the ignition system would've resolved any ignition related misfires but still has the high rpm and idle misfires that seem unchanged. I would've thought if it was fuel related it would happen all the time unless it's the pump losing pressure when it gets hot. If it was the ecu I would think it would do it all of the time.  Something I noticed when I had it all apart was a pretty decent coating of oil in the J pipe coming from the throttle body. The weird thing about that is the pcv that goes to the intake is blocked off. So that has me wondering if the oil is coming from the turbo because that's the only thing that could get oil in there. This thing does sound like it spools like a mofo like I'm a former dsm guy and the only stock turbo I've ever heard spool this loud (to only go up to about 5psi) is on a diesel truck. And the recirculated bov is really loud too I had a TurboXS RFL and this thing is just as loud and being so low on psi seems a little weird. I don't know if any of this is or isn't related but just trying to make sure I'm not leaving any potentially helpful information out. 
    • Chris_Guthrie
      Misfire/stalling issues

      By Chris_Guthrie · Posted

      So latest update. I replaced the ignitor with a jspec unit from enjuku. It felt a lot better at first although it is a little bit cooler of a day than it has been. Warming up didn't have as much misfire sputtering as before. Went on a 10m test drive. Felt good, a lot stronger though I was taking it easy on the boost. On the return trip started getting the cutting out at higher rpm again and was getting worse the longer I was driving. Took it easy the rest of the way home. Before turning the car off was getting the normal idle sputtering I was getting before.  So where I'm at now, entire ignition system has been replaced with upgraded components. Plugs still gapped at .8mm. Removed the fuel cap in case it was building too much reverse pressure I'm the tank, didn't help at all. Now I'm still on the same tank of gas the fuel treatment was in, I'm thinking if I can run that out and then refill with fresh 93 maybe  the treatment is too concentrated in some areas but doesn't explain that it only does it once the car is warm. I'm leaning towards fuel pump or injectors but if the injector was clogging I don't think it would make it shut off like it has but then fire right back up like nothing happened. So my current guess would be the pump. Without a fuel pressure guage no way to test or check it while it's running.  So that's kind of where I'm at. Need to start testing fuel components and ecu/wiring but I'm at a loss of what's the next logical step and procedure for testing it. 
    • couchboy
      R32 skyline gtst 2wd swaybar end links

      By couchboy · Posted

      @niZmO_Man thanks for that info, lucky I bought the gktech ones 🤙.
×
×
  • Create New...