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The factory alternator probably can’t keep up anymore
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Custom pistons or machine the crown of the 10:1 piston down
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Managed to get it all installed, along with a carbon timing belt cover, made sure to use the correct spacer to ensure there is a 1.3mm gap. having issues with it not starting now, checked the scope and there are no wave forms whatsoever. I’ve followed the pin out correctly. However I’m wondering if the pinion may be different as this is a Neo in a 32. read up on haltech tuning tips and it says to swap ecu pins 1&5 and 2&6 around. will have a look tomorrow arvo at where to swap these pins around in the software as I don’t want to mangle the connector trying to change them round in the loom. Anyway a couple of photos for the time being.
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Hello everyone , I am currently building a 3.2 L with an RB26 cylinder head my block is stock and I will run E85 and E100 My mapper who is Romain Levesque from dear RaceCAL LtD (former syvecs technical director) asks me to make a ratio of around 9.5. so after reading a lot of topics on it I found pistons with a CR 9.0 and 10.0 expensive IRP what direction would be taken to achieve a ratio of 9.5 without having to plane the block by 2mm or to do it a minimum, but to be able to play with the thickness of the cylinder head gaskets thank you in advance for your response
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By Murray_Calavera · Posted
Yep, factory alternator. Fuel pump wiring isn't bad. Not perfect, but isn't bad. The gauge of wire has no issues supplying the 20 amps, the only issue is I'm using the factory connector in the fuel pump hanger which I'd be amazed if they are rated for 20 amps... but nothing has melted so far lol. It's also got the typical relay direct power from battery etc.
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