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R32 Gts-t Front Camber Help


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Hey Guys,

So I've searched the forums for similar issues and haven't been able to find much information. I'm currently trying to fit a set of 18x11 +20 Concave Concepts to my Gts-t and have purchased and installed a set of Front Upper Camber Arms to try and pull them in a little as they poke on my Gts-t guards quite a bit as pictured. Although since doing so have run into a few problems.

IMG_5775_zpskfpxspan.jpg

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1. After adjusting the camber it looks as though the wheel sits further back inside the arch towards the back of the car and is now rubbing quite heavily against the guard/sideskirt mount when turning. (I'm thinking caster arms will fix this as I assume the caster is all out of whack)

2. After adjusting the camber the inside of the wheel looks like its sitting over the coilover (above the lock collar for the base and below the lock collar for the spring) and over hard bumps the coilover compresses and hits against the inside of the rim.

3. At full lock, or close to, the inside of the rim rubs up against the upper wishbone and makes a horrid grinding noise (I have since notched out the wishbone but apparently not enough because it still does it)

I tried fitting a set of 7mm slip on spacers to fix the issue but they pull the wheels out a little too far and create all kinda of rubbing issues on the guards.

Has anybody had any similar issues, or have any constructive suggestions/can help at all?
Thanks.

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Get some smaller wheels or bigger guards. Camber change is not the answer.

I have a set of GTR guards I'm yet to fit, so should be able to pull the camber out a little but this doesn't resolve the issue of rim rubbing on the upper wishbone.

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the inside of the rim rubs up against the upper wishbone and makes a horrid grinding noise (I have since notched out the wishbone but apparently not enough because it still does it)

Just keep going with your angle grinder until there is no rubbing...and as above trailer your car everywhere because it won't be safe to drive.

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Have you seen anyone fit 11 inch wide rims to the front of a 32 before?

The guy I bought them off was running them on a 32 as well, he was running 20mm Extended LCA's along with adjustable front camber arms and gtr guards and he said he didn't have any Issues, so yes I have.

And just because people don't like what I'm trying to achieve with my car doesn't mean you gotta get sassy ;)

As bcozican mentioned he runs a 10" +15 so an 11" +20 is only going to 7-8mm more inset.

Do you run standard upper arms?

I'd say by pulling the camber out and running adjustable caster arms to square everything up again should solve the issue?

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How the f**k are you going to drive this car with the -5° of camber you're going to need to tuck the outside edge of the rubber under the guard? You'll use approximately 5% of the total mass of tread rubber on the tyres before wearing through to the canvas and will have all the front end grip of a f**king moped!

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How the f**k are you going to drive this car with the -5° of camber you're going to need to tuck the outside edge of the rubber under the guard? You'll use approximately 5% of the total mass of tread rubber on the tyres before wearing through to the canvas and will have all the front end grip of a f**king moped!

I don't want to have to run -5 or anywhere close to that, old mate bcozican apparently runs -4 without issues and thats good for him. Running hellaflushstancenationjdmsocietyfanboy camber is not my goal, I simply want to know if the current outcome of what I'm doing (i.e using front upper arms to pull the camber in whilst running debatably stupidly large wheels) seems typical? (number 1 and 2 in the OP) And possibly what will correct such issues other than "buy new wheels" or "just hardpark everywhere" :)

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Look basically what you are trying to do is not safe or roadworthy. 4 or 5 degrees of camber is way too much for a road car and will dramatically reduce your braking ability. Further, even if you can get the wheel to tuck into the guard, the actual ADRs say the whole wheel has to be within the guards, not just the top when compressed.

So do be surprised that people aren't super supportive of your plan to wreck you car and endanger yourself and others.

Having said that, a key thing both people who said they got close to having this size wheel said was that they used GTR guards which have significantly more space, you definitely need to do that. GTR guards also need new headlights, front bumper, and a few other bits. Next, you should run as little caster as possible (will also make your car handle worse) to keep the wheel from hitting the front of the guard at the tightest point. And yes, you could run really short upper arms which would help it tuck in, and you will need to remove the inner wheel arch guards. The next point of clearance if they are far enough in is likely to be the swaybar, so I guess you could remove that as well (worse handling again). And the last thing I can think of would be to run undersized/"stretched" tyres (also illegal) to reduce rubbing as the wheel turns on either the inner or outer guard.

But I think you are crazy to wreck an awesome car

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im running adjustable camber arms and everything else -4 camber , 6 castor but I have other stuff going on like S15 steering rack etc etc

also full GTR front everything as mentioned above and tubs + sitting about 350mm centre rim to gaurd height

Also mine is a track car

Edited by bcozican
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Look basically what you are trying to do is not safe or roadworthy. 4 or 5 degrees of camber is way too much for a road car and will dramatically reduce your braking ability. Further, even if you can get the wheel to tuck into the guard, the actual ADRs say the whole wheel has to be within the guards, not just the top when compressed.

So do be surprised that people aren't super supportive of your plan to wreck you car and endanger yourself and others.

Having said that, a key thing both people who said they got close to having this size wheel said was that they used GTR guards which have significantly more space, you definitely need to do that. GTR guards also need new headlights, front bumper, and a few other bits. Next, you should run as little caster as possible (will also make your car handle worse) to keep the wheel from hitting the front of the guard at the tightest point. And yes, you could run really short upper arms which would help it tuck in, and you will need to remove the inner wheel arch guards. The next point of clearance if they are far enough in is likely to be the swaybar, so I guess you could remove that as well (worse handling again). And the last thing I can think of would be to run undersized/"stretched" tyres (also illegal) to reduce rubbing as the wheel turns on either the inner or outer guard.

But I think you are crazy to wreck an awesome car

Thanks for the response, I have a pair of Gtr guards along with the indicators to go on, I think I might do that before touching anything else. Inner guard lining was removed long ago and loom has been tucked up higher out of the way. Then hopefully with the extra outside clearance I wont have to run such aggressive camber, I also need to run more caster rather than less as the wheel has heaps of room at the front but very minimal at the rear.

As far as the ADR's go I was unaware it was the whole wheel, I've always gone off the assumption that the top of the rim had to sit underneath the guard.

I understand this isn't everyones cup of tea and thats fine, but I feel like if you don't have something constructive to say then why say anything? Thats the only thing that arcs me up.

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I understand this isn't everyones cup of tea and thats fine, but I feel like if you don't have something constructive to say then why say anything? Thats the only thing that arcs me up.

Oh sheesh. It's not just that it's not everyone's cup of tea. It's that it makes so little sense. My first response was 100% completely correct.

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