Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25det Best Performance


Recommended Posts

Hi,

so now im trying to make my dream car come true

and i want something super fast lets say 400-450 HP this is all on RB25DET

so up until now i have these parts not yet installed

1- Greedy style manifold + 80mm Throtel body + Fuel Rail

2- Aftermarket Turbo 50 in size

3- NGK Iridium BCPR6

4- RB25DET Gear Box

5- r32 diff + Cusco adjustable Toe control rods +aftermarket full adj suspension

6- Blue pin OEM ECU (r33)

7- 3" Intercooler + HKS SSQV Blowoff

8- Tomi Fuel regulaitor + Oil Catch can + Comtic Headgasket 1.3 - 87mm Bor + AEM 320L PH Fuel pump + Oil dumper

9 - Apexi SFAC 2 + innovate Wideband + Turbo boost controler digital

so what i would like to know what am i missing, what are the things that i purched wrong and it will not have any effect

ah and 1 more thing does the nismo gauge cluster spedo 300 fits the cefiro a 31 ???

i appreciate all the help before i blow my Engine ^_^

Thanks again

Loy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If money is tight sell the following to buy things you really need:

Greddy style manifold, 80mm throttle body, fuel rail, unknown turbo, OEM ecu, Tomei fuel regulator and all of 9

What you need as a minimum:

Link G4 computer + mac valve for boost control OR PFC + Z32 AFM and boost controller

Decent turbo with (if necessary) wastegate mounted on stock manifold.

Assuming you are running on petrol some 550 side mount injectors

3in turbo back exhaust

Probably a set of new OEM or Splitfire coils.

Good intercooler (you don't say what kind you have)

Good tune

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

NOS... two of the big ones.

But seriously, your tune must be good. Try an aftermarket ECU

Thanks Mate im trying as hard as i can to get good numbers

You are missing.

Decent turbo

Proper engine management.

I guess so

You need a decent throttel body...

But yeah, Turbo, ECU, Exhaust.

Maybe E85 if it's available?

It's hard to find one here :(

If money is tight sell the following to buy things you really need:

Greddy style manifold, 80mm throttle body, fuel rail, unknown turbo, OEM ecu, Tomei fuel regulator and all of 9

What you need as a minimum:

Link G4 computer + mac valve for boost control OR PFC + Z32 AFM and boost controller

Link G4 is really costly + no good tuners around

Decent turbo with (if necessary) wastegate mounted on stock manifold.

​any brand recommendation ?

Assuming you are running on petrol some 550 side mount injectors

Yep Nismo 555cc

3in turbo back exhaust

can i stick with 2.5" (to keep it quit as possible)

Probably a set of new OEM or Splitfire coils.

I'm trying to get those

Good intercooler (you don't say what kind you have)

aw sorry the intercooler is Apexi

Good tune

Hard to find one around

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

ok guys after a few days of searching i couldn't come up with a clear answer for this

i wanted to upgrade my engine injectors so i found some good names

like 550cc nismo - 750 denso - 650 bosh aside for that

what is the right one to chose for my application i mean to have a sweet 400+ without risking

oh and i've changed my ECU and i bought Link G4+ (GTRLink) ....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a S2 RB25DET. It makes +-340hp on 0.9bar and just over 400hp on 1.2-1.3 bar boost. Supporting mods are the following:

Garrett GT3071R 0.82AR mounted on stock manifold with external Tial 38mm wastegate

76mm exhaust with 2 Magnaflow silencers

600 x 300 x 76 Autobahn 88 intercooler

1000cc DW sidefeed fuel injectors fed by a Walbro fuel pump, stock FPR

Stock intake manifold with front-facing standard throttle body

Greddy Type RZ blow-off valve

Mishimoto R33 radiator, Nismo thermostat and SPAL electric fan

Rear head oil drain, winged and baffled sump

Link G4 Xtreme management

AEM water & methanol injection

I forgot to add that it makes full boost by 3100rpm in 4th and 5th, about 3800rpm in 1st gear.

Edited by Skylinefreak1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a S2 RB25DET. It makes +-340hp on 0.9bar and just over 400hp on 1.2-1.3 bar boost. Supporting mods are the following:

Garrett GT3071R 0.82AR mounted on stock manifold with external Tial 38mm wastegate

76mm exhaust with 2 Magnaflow silencers

600 x 300 x 76 Autobahn 88 intercooler

1000cc DW sidefeed fuel injectors fed by a Walbro fuel pump, stock FPR

Stock intake manifold with front-facing standard throttle body

Greddy Type RZ blow-off valve

Mishimoto R33 radiator, Nismo thermostat and SPAL electric fan

Rear head oil drain, winged and baffled sump

Link G4 Xtreme management

AEM water & methanol injection

I forgot to add that it makes full boost by 3100rpm in 4th and 5th, about 3800rpm in 1st gear.

Thats a cool setup but again 1000cc ....

i just bought the 550cc from nismo and i will try to hit this number and i hope i can

for the turbo money is tight to buy one of those Garrett GT3071R monsters any other brands recommendations ?

i will not replace the intake manifold hmmm lets see what will happen

but anyway thanks mate

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get 800cc power enterprise dropin injectors.

Adaptronic plug in Ecu would make tuning alot easier. It supports 3 bar map sensor so no AFM

ATR43SAT Ceramic Ball bearing Rb Bolton turbo. That makes 20psi by 3550RPM 4th, maxed at 424rwhp internally gated on P98 fuel.

Ok, this is the important bit, or you won't make my power:

4 inches induction pipe

PWR 600x300x81mm cooler

3.5 inches turbo back exhaust.

a Good tune

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get 800cc power enterprise dropin injectors.

Adaptronic plug in Ecu would make tuning alot easier. It supports 3 bar map sensor so no AFM

ATR43SAT Ceramic Ball bearing Rb Bolton turbo. That makes 20psi by 3550RPM 4th, maxed at 424rwhp internally gated on P98 fuel.

Ok, this is the important bit, or you won't make my power:

4 inches induction pipe

PWR 600x300x81mm cooler

3.5 inches turbo back exhaust.

a Good tune

Price on atr43sat cbb if u don't mind telling?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I do think it's weird I had it for 2 weeks then the issue came up out of nowhere and progressively got worse. I would've imagined changing everything in the ignition system would've resolved any ignition related misfires but still has the high rpm and idle misfires that seem unchanged. I would've thought if it was fuel related it would happen all the time unless it's the pump losing pressure when it gets hot. If it was the ecu I would think it would do it all of the time.  Something I noticed when I had it all apart was a pretty decent coating of oil in the J pipe coming from the throttle body. The weird thing about that is the pcv that goes to the intake is blocked off. So that has me wondering if the oil is coming from the turbo because that's the only thing that could get oil in there. This thing does sound like it spools like a mofo like I'm a former dsm guy and the only stock turbo I've ever heard spool this loud (to only go up to about 5psi) is on a diesel truck. And the recirculated bov is really loud too I had a TurboXS RFL and this thing is just as loud and being so low on psi seems a little weird. I don't know if any of this is or isn't related but just trying to make sure I'm not leaving any potentially helpful information out. 
    • So latest update. I replaced the ignitor with a jspec unit from enjuku. It felt a lot better at first although it is a little bit cooler of a day than it has been. Warming up didn't have as much misfire sputtering as before. Went on a 10m test drive. Felt good, a lot stronger though I was taking it easy on the boost. On the return trip started getting the cutting out at higher rpm again and was getting worse the longer I was driving. Took it easy the rest of the way home. Before turning the car off was getting the normal idle sputtering I was getting before.  So where I'm at now, entire ignition system has been replaced with upgraded components. Plugs still gapped at .8mm. Removed the fuel cap in case it was building too much reverse pressure I'm the tank, didn't help at all. Now I'm still on the same tank of gas the fuel treatment was in, I'm thinking if I can run that out and then refill with fresh 93 maybe  the treatment is too concentrated in some areas but doesn't explain that it only does it once the car is warm. I'm leaning towards fuel pump or injectors but if the injector was clogging I don't think it would make it shut off like it has but then fire right back up like nothing happened. So my current guess would be the pump. Without a fuel pressure guage no way to test or check it while it's running.  So that's kind of where I'm at. Need to start testing fuel components and ecu/wiring but I'm at a loss of what's the next logical step and procedure for testing it. 
    • @niZmO_Man thanks for that info, lucky I bought the gktech ones 🤙.
    • Never cheap out on brakes, tyres, suspension. I learnt the hard way at Oran Park lol
×
×
  • Create New...