Need Some Guidance, Maybe Not Some, Alot. On Rb25det

[Dev RB25]

Sup fellas would really like some input on quite a few matters.

RB25DET S2.

1. Alternator/waterpump/fan belt snapped, i drove for abt 5 minutes..while the temp gauge was 3 quarters, it was a cool clear night, maintaine at abt 30-40kmh back home. Replaced my ps,ac and alt belt while i was at it. Performed a flush on the radiator (very very rusty) since i had it removed. Now as i was filling the system, i noticed my thermostat was slighlty opened even at engine shutdown. I filled water from the top hose, started the car, blasted the heater, kept my garden hose at the top till full waiting for thermostat to open, water started getting pretty hot but thermo didnt open, so after abt 10 mins or so.. i switched the engine off and noticed as i switched it off, a surge of hot water came out the of the thermo...so i was thinking ah, it opened...i started it up again, and same thing happened.. I know it would be easier to just remove the thermo and test it right? but for some reason i cant seem to access the thermo inner bolt. the dipstick is in the way and so is one of the heater hose, and its just too damn tight,. Is there something im missing here or lack of tools? from where i see it, only possible way to reach that bolt, is the remove the whole altenator to get access to that inner bolt. Any one faced a similar issue?

Here is where im a little puzzled, at the end when it opened, from a surge or pressure build, if my waterpump was fully functioning....it should techically be able to push more water out of the system when i started the car sinced the thermo was slightly opened... but this didnt happen. Im thinking if my waterpump is f**ked..


2.My rsm detects 50rpm randomly, on ignition, with engine off. Any idea why its getting a signal ?


3. at the moment, my setup is pfc, fpr, walbro fuel pump, fmic, 3" exh , rest are stock, stock turbine, stock internals, stock clutch. Was thinking of getting a garret gtx28 , now does my list sound about right for what i need.
-bigger injectors (what injectors you guys normally go for)
-exh manifold
- and a tune

plannign to keep the boost at 1.2bar / 17psi since on stock internals.

is the z32 afm a must? and will the stock clutch be able to cope?

[donburtron]

1- i have no idea about lol.. sorry mate

2- still no idea

3- is suggest 600cc injectors would be suitable to handle your 17psi your after.

Before getting the garrett check out some hi flowed turbos.. the one cyrrently on my car is awesome and very responsive..

Im making 321kw at the rears with 880cc and im at full boost by 3400rpm..

24psi is about the peak performance of the turbo iv got but its more than enough in my opinion.

Z32 is a must for that power..

Gap your plugs to .8 and id anvise splitfire coils if not already done.

Im only running a HD clutch and for the first 1300klm i have a to4z running 830+hp and iv had no dramas at all.. yet i hope..

As for running stock internals i couldnt be sure but i fid run 22psi on stock internals for 3 or so months with out blowing it up however i wasnt to hard on it

[KiwiRS4T]

How do you know the thermostat was slightly open? It has a small bleed hole anyway. However it is likely you have cooked it and should replace it. Did you open the bleeder when you were filling with water?Tilt the car to encourage full filling?

Just get a Hypergear turbo and you can keep your stock manifold. Stock FPR would have been fine too. If you are planning on making more than about 225rwkw you will need an Z32 AFM. Use as much boost as the turbo will make - people have made over 300kw on unopened engines. Check with Scotty on this forum to see what he can do for you in the way of injectors.

You will need a new clutch at some point but if you don't do full throttle launches you could just wear your old one out first (unless you know it's on its last legs already).

[Dev RB25]

1- i have no idea about lol.. sorry mate

2- still no idea

3- is suggest 600cc injectors would be suitable to handle your 17psi your after.

Before getting the garrett check out some hi flowed turbos.. the one cyrrently on my car is awesome and very responsive..

Im making 321kw at the rears with 880cc and im at full boost by 3400rpm..

24psi is about the peak performance of the turbo iv got but its more than enough in my opinion.

Z32 is a must for that power..

Gap your plugs to .8 and id anvise splitfire coils if not already done.

Im only running a HD clutch and for the first 1300klm i have a to4z running 830+hp and iv had no dramas at all.. yet i hope..

As for running stock internals i couldnt be sure but i fid run 22psi on stock internals for 3 or so months with out blowing it up however i wasnt to hard on it

thats nice power ! more or less what im aiming for.. ill check out those turbos and get a z32 afm ready before i install all of it and get a tune.

How do you know the thermostat was slightly open? It has a small bleed hole anyway. However it is likely you have cooked it and should replace it. Did you open the bleeder when you were filling with water?Tilt the car to encourage full filling?

Just get a Hypergear turbo and you can keep your stock manifold. Stock FPR would have been fine too. If you are planning on making more than about 225rwkw you will need an Z32 AFM. Use as much boost as the turbo will make - people have made over 300kw on unopened engines. Check with Scotty on this forum to see what he can do for you in the way of injectors.

You will need a new clutch at some point but if you don't do full throttle launches you could just wear your old one out first (unless you know it's on its last legs already).

when i shut down the engine, there was like a temporary gush of hot water that came through. yea i did open the bleeder and filled it with water. it was slightly tilted not jacked. now abt replacement and removal..im a bit in a jam here.. i cant seem to reach that inner bolt... i read somewhere that you gotta bend the dipstick ? is this a common workaround ? any other ideas..? the only way i see possible is remving the whole alternator to get some access.

the clutch is fairly new, ill guess ill burn it and change when its due... the z32 afm it is...

Edited March 31, 2016 by Dev RB25

[Dev RB25]

anyone care to shed some light for the thermostat removal ? should i bend the dipstick or just remove the alternator

[Trex]

i just unidid it with an extension from memory. no bending of anything needed, it was a pain but not that bad.

[KiwiRS4T]

anyone care to shed some light for the thermostat removal ? should i bend the dipstick or just remove the alternator

If the tube for the dipstick is in your way i believe it is a press fit so you may be able to extract it. Do you need to remove the alternator or can you just loosen the bolts and move it?

[AngryRB]

1.Just put a new thermostat on, there's 3 bolts that should be accessible with the correct tools. The water pump is likely to be fine, but replace as well if worried cause they are cheap and easy fitting anyway.

3. People either go for drop in's ( Does the Job) which is easy to do, so 550's, 740's or they go top feed conversion ( Best option) with Xspurt 1000's which are perfect for E85 later on..

Best to keep it simple with a highflow or a GT, GTX probably overkill on stock internals, best stick with a mid range spike of 20psi and bleed it down at the top end eg 16psi

Will need splitfires, Z32

Stock clutch is ok if you let the clutch out and then drop the hammer..

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

^ xspurts aren't the best option.. the tips are milled to increase flow... they even blatantly say that.

Unmodified Bosch injectors are the best option.

[Dev RB25]

i just unidid it with an extension from memory. no bending of anything needed, it was a pain but not that bad.

yeah, im gonna get a new ratchet socket set with extensions. perhaps im not equipped with the right tools..

If the tube for the dipstick is in your way i believe it is a press fit so you may be able to extract it. Do you need to remove the alternator or can you just loosen the bolts and move it?

yeah there is a bolt at the top to hold the dipstick connected to the intake... i can remove that, but i was a little worried about pulling the dipstick tube out. Abt the altenator, from what i was thinking, if i remove that gives me a lot of space to get that bolt out, but as highlighted by Trex, i might not have the right set of tools, so im gonna get some new ones and see how that works out. Before i do the dipstick and lat move.

1.Just put a new thermostat on, there's 3 bolts that should be accessible with the correct tools. The water pump is likely to be fine, but replace as well if worried cause they are cheap and easy fitting anyway.

3. People either go for drop in's ( Does the Job) which is easy to do, so 550's, 740's or they go top feed conversion ( Best option) with Xspurt 1000's which are perfect for E85 later on..

Best to keep it simple with a highflow or a GT, GTX probably overkill on stock internals, best stick with a mid range spike of 20psi and bleed it down at the top end eg 16psi

Will need splitfires, Z32

Stock clutch is ok if you let the clutch out and then drop the hammer..

When you say correct tools, may i know if its an ratchet socket with extension? i am planning to do a timing belt,waterpump,idler, tensioner change. but as of now i dont have a torque wrench...im waiting to get that first before i do the replacement. how often do you guys have difficulties getting the crank bolt off? i mean, i dont have an impact gun, i should be able to get it out with a breaker bar+cheat bar + gear on 4th... im a bit worried as i read a few guys having a problem at the crank bolt...

Splitfires hmm, alright... so maybe i should try to get a cheaper turbo and make way for coil packs... ive seen some of the power numbers here, based on their setup.. not many mentioned abt coil packs being a must.. z32 definitely see them in most setups.. i dont rape the clutch often...hahaha ... i guess i can get that at another time.. ill focus more on the power upgrades first and see how that clutch handles..

when burping the radiator, how long do you guys leave the car running ? this is what i did, open the bleeder, filled her up. started the car...topped up...left the bleeder open..lots and lots of bubbles then after a while didnt notice any bubbles so i closed it....left the radiator cap open...water started getting real hot at the top hose..abt 15 minutes..oem temp gauge at 1/3... with the cap off..i could see it was getting real hot as well.... at 1 point i could feel the bottom hose felt a lil warm but def not hot. Shouldnt the thermostat have opened by then ? water started spitting out of the radiatorat that point so i switched it off. Should i leave the bleeder screw off longer? and refit the radiator cap ?

Edited April 4, 2016 by Dev RB25

[AngryRB]

yeah, im gonna get a new ratchet socket set with extensions. perhaps im not equipped with the right tools..

yeah there is a bolt at the top to hold the dipstick connected to the intake... i can remove that, but i was a little worried about pulling the dipstick tube out. Abt the altenator, from what i was thinking, if i remove that gives me a lot of space to get that bolt out, but as highlighted by Trex, i might not have the right set of tools, so im gonna get some new ones and see how that works out. Before i do the dipstick and lat move.

When you say correct tools, may i know if its an ratchet socket with extension? i am planning to do a timing belt,waterpump,idler, tensioner change. but as of now i dont have a torque wrench...im waiting to get that first before i do the replacement. how often do you guys have difficulties getting the crank bolt off? i mean, i dont have an impact gun, i should be able to get it out with a breaker bar+cheat bar + gear on 4th... im a bit worried as i read a few guys having a problem at the crank bolt...

Splitfires hmm, alright... so maybe i should try to get a cheaper turbo and make way for coil packs... ive seen some of the power numbers here, based on their setup.. not many mentioned abt coil packs being a must.. z32 definitely see them in most setups.. i dont rape the clutch often...hahaha ... i guess i can get that at another time.. ill focus more on the power upgrades first and see how that clutch handles..

when burping the radiator, how long do you guys leave the car running ? this is what i did, open the bleeder, filled her up. started the car...topped up...left the bleeder open..lots and lots of bubbles then after a while didnt notice any bubbles so i closed it....left the radiator cap open...water started getting real hot at the top hose..abt 15 minutes..oem temp gauge at 1/3... with the cap off..i could see it was getting real hot as well.... at 1 point i could feel the bottom hose felt a lil warm but def not hot. Shouldnt the thermostat have opened by then ? water started spitting out of the radiatorat that point so i switched it off. Should i leave the bleeder screw off longer? and refit the radiator cap ?

The thermostat has 3 bolts, id use a spanner/rachet and might need extension whatever is best i can remember how i did it now but its straight forward, the crank bolt can be a PITA but sounds like you have good ideas, its bloody tight so i use a rachet and long extension bar to give big leaverage.. its approx 108nm which is alot and use locktight when putting back on, you need the R33 workshop manual to go off, careful cause you can f#$k it up and the engine if not sure..

My stock coilpacks couldn't handle 200kw's apparently or maybe the workshop was dodgey but they are old so just do it to save the drama causing on the dyno its like $200/hr..

I've done the radiator flush etc and all i did was run the engine with heater on and wait for the overflow to occur thru the radiator and put cap on, then check level when cold , the bubbles will find the way out...dont stress..

Dont cheap out on the turbo, its the heart of everything, im a GT3076 whore, will deliver for street etc even better on E85

Edited April 4, 2016 by AngryRB

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

^GTX3071 better than a GT3076

[Dev RB25]

suppp fellas...turns out i had air in the system and thermostat is fine.... thats a relief..

got my z32 afm..havent installed it..plan to do that only when im changing the turbo,injectors and do it all at once.

anyone here tried the holset hx35/40?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

search, people have.. don't get it... boring turbo.

I recommend you get a Hypergear turbo or a GTX3071 if you want some form of driveability.. or if you have loads of cash a BW EFR 6758 don't get a GT3076 if you're going to get a turbo new.. they're old/boring.. a GTX3071 will shit all over it.

[AngryRB]

haha.. this guy is funny^^^^ GT3076 sounds pretty dam good, like a baby T51Z

How is that boring?

Edited April 15, 2016 by AngryRB

[iruvyouskyrine]

He meant that GTX3071 makes roughly same power as GT3076 but more responsive because smaller and lighter.

I agree with what you said about the sound though. They sounds fuxking tits.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

dw cuz.. surge slots brings the bitches to the yard

I want surge slots

The new SS2 is so quiet.. doesn't dose hard doesn't make hektic spoolz.. but goes like a cut snake

[admS15]

I just want slarts