Rb25 starting issue

[Ed.williams5]

Hey guys back at it again trying to solve some problems.  Was driving the car the other day and ended up having it die on me while sitting at a stop light. No lights came on only thing that happened was the idle dropped down to around 400 rpm and when I gave it a little throttle to bring the revs back up it died.  Went to restart the car and had a very slow crank, first thought was the alternator must have finally home bad.   

So I got the car home and put it on my trickle charger overnight. Tested my battery the next day and voltage was 13.2 load tested with a carbon stack tester and it passed with flying colors. Now when I went to crank to start the car it still cranked very slow and wouldn't start without having a charger on it. Once it was running checked alternator at idle and I'm getting 13.77 volts. Next thought was possibly a bad ground which I ruled out by using 2/0 cable with eyelets from batt - to engine block, ground is good. Went checking voltage drop while cranking battery is dropping from 13.2 volts down to 10.1.

My question is has anyone ever had a bad starter that would still crank or cause the battery to discharge while driving around?

 

Synopsis:

Car died and wouldn't start

Charged and load tested battery - it's good

Alternator putting out 13.77v at idle

Solid ground (verified)

3v voltage drop while cranking

[admS15]

I once had a bad starter motor that would still slowly crank but was drawing so much power that the biggest 4x4 battery known to man couldn't turn it over quick enough. Your car stalling at the lights would lead me to be looking for an issue elsewhere but it could be coincidence that the starter is playing up at the same time. Sorry I couldn't be of better assistance.

[Ed.williams5]

Got a quote today for a starter at $50 so going to replace anyway for good measure

[Ed.williams5]

Well got the starter pulled and first thing I noticed is it smells like burnt up electrical, motor still spins freely but obviously solenoid is shot. Will replace and keep you guys posted on outcome

[tridentt150v]

A starter motor arcing across the armature will use up all juice the battery has to offer and still not work properly, plus it robs everything else of the power needed.  So your spark plugs would be only getting a very weak or no spark!!!

[Ed.williams5]

Trident that is what I'm leaning towards at this point...the fact of the burnt electrical leads me to believe the starter may be the root cause of my issues. I will post updates after I test the starter tomorrow though 

[Ed.williams5]

So I verified what trident stated is what my starter is doing...brass bushing the armature rides in is worn out and is letting it rub across the magnets in the casing while spinning when it sees a load. Now for a new question

 

I read that you can use a starter from a 67 Datsun 411 part number 16210. I got one of the and all the bolt holespecially and everything line up casing is a little bigger but no issues.  I check the teeth on my old starter and it is 11 tooth the 16210 only has 9...is this going to be an issue? Seems like the gear count would have to be the same for it to not chew up the flywheel. 

Could someone running this maybe chime in and verify it's not going to chew up the flywheel?

Edited July 23, 2016 by Ed.williams5

[Ed.williams5]

Well verified the starter does work. Now onto figuring out more problems which I will create a new thread 

[msammut]

Hi there. i am new to the Skyline scene but i have some experience with Electonics.

You say the ground to the engine is ok but what about ethe Body ground? I do not know where they all are but there should be a gorund connection to the body also.

To test I suggest you get a jumper lead and connect the Negative of the Battery to a bolt somewhere on the cars body and see it the cranking improves.

 

Michael

 

Edited July 25, 2016 by msammut
spelling

[Ed.williams5]

It was the starter that was burnt up