Ares180BPM

Check out cusco, bilstein, KW and other stuff. Had non-adjustable bilstein shocks and tein springs on my GT-t - great setup by a really awesome alignment shop. Went from tein luxury sport (crap) to ohlins road and track on my r - ohlins noticeably superior but much much harder

For the power you're after go single - far less issues with cooling and a much tidier, less stressed engine. Also - the reviews of the Tomei ARMS are less than favorable - i was considering them at one point myself but after reading many disappointing reviews i'm more in favor of the HKS 2530 kai and gen 3 GT-SS and GT-RS for twin setups however a decent single is still a better option. Having said that iDemon has had extensive bottom end work to make the amount of power he's rolling on - for 500bhp it's debatable whether this is needed. For 800hp+ you will need to crack open the block and reforge it or you'll end up with a much much bigger bill. You'll also need to sort oil systems and upgrade your injectors and pump. After this, you'll also need a half decent ECU to run it all. I also believe iDemon is now running a single because response and power levels in newer singles are far superior to old skool twins.

It's from Nissan officially, believe it or not - quite fun too, lol! Not so much a test of the gauge as the ETS itself - the MFD on my 34 typically gets the "highest score" under these conditions and should give some indication of the condition of the case

i've gone from factory to Midori spec midori Seibi to Do Luck Tarzan G-Box in my 34. the additional programming in the Do-luck really comes into things under hard braking into corners where the unit pushes power forward to stabilize the car to help deal with weight shift. For a 32 or 33 you should notice things a lot more as the 34's factory g-sensor (apparently) works faster than units fitted to the older models. Which is best for you depends on what you're doing with the car but as above, your transfer case needs to be up to the task. The official diagnosis for this is to park up on a firm but grassy field and hit the throttle hard, paying attention to how much your torque split gauge moves All up, i feel they're worthwhile - just gotta select the right model

I got a replacement for mine through the guy on Facebook (R34 GTR MFD) Arrived within days and i was able to install it myself (doesn't sound like much but i'm a muppet) Works perfectly and looks so much better than the burnt up one i had. Give him a shout!

Er huh? Don't get it? I replaced my one with the Tarzan G-Sensor and the display is now working A-OK No extra wiring needed... Maybe it's an update but the new unit I have works fine with the display.

In other news, doing the engine Mounts realigned the intercooler to intake manifold piping, fixing a boost leak I didn't know I had. Found a second hand front pipe and got rips to make a pair of AFM Delete pipes. FPR and retune later and I'm up 25kw with a similar gain in torque. Stoked

Wow, this is quite a disappointment. Guess I'll keep the diff in storage indefinitely as I'm not wanting to move away from the active rear diff any time soon, otherwise what's the difference between a v-spec and standard after the suspension has been replaced. Thanks for the input.

Thanks for the input guys. I won't have the funds to be able to change the rear at this stage but will give it a look in the future. I've got some expensive panel work to take care of! Thinking next year I'll refresh the bushes, suspension links and sway bars then see where to next.

Hmmmmm, so will the quaife be any improvement over factory if I'm not changing the rear?

My apologies. To clarify: I don't want to move away from the active rear differential, however if people know of an aftermarket replacement for this, that retains the electronic control is be keen to investigate it.

To be clear, I don't want to move away from the active diff...

What do I replace the active rear diff with ?

Hey all Bit the bullet and have a quaife on the way. Super glad I got the engine mounts done! An intercooler pipe was misaligned which has now been corrected - Holy Overbooost! Been driving very carefully and a retune isn't far off.

Will look into the differentials but the money isn't there at the moment. Spoon collars have been in a while now they definitely changed how the car feels, adding rigidity and aiding alignment - both great improvements - however the biggest advantage of them was the increase of feedback through the wheel and car asa whole, on road conditions etc. A friend who'd driven the car previously made the comment that it felt dead, that the car was in control and he was just there suggesting where it would go. After the collars he found it to be not only more alive, but that he had a greater feel for what it was doing. It's hard to explain but it's definitely made an improvement. Regarding my random list (hehe) I've run DBA before and as a compromise between street and track found them to be excellent. This car may turn into a daily at some point, so i'm needing to think about longevity too | Will consider Ferodo for next set - had the MX72's recommended by my mechanic/guru who really knows gt-r's Can you suggest camber arms and roll bars? Car has a lot of bracing from factory and haven't found rigidity a problem but could look at it At close to 160,000k i'm guessing the mounts are close to flogged, so nismo mounts seem like the go here - especially given the price of standard! Car has 'difficult' suspension at the moment - can't seem to get the balance right - it seems to bounce a lot, yet the rear diffuser will bottom out when driving on normal 100km b roads here in NZ I figure I want to spend my money on the good stuff handling wise to try to mitigate some of this. My last ran bilstein shocks with tein springs - non adjustable - firm but good setup and a good balance between road and track driving, which i'm hoping to achieve again here. Thanks for the input guys - muchly appreciated!