kingtube69

It’s with great sadness that I inform you I’ve sold the boat. Put it up this afternoon and within 1 hour I had a stack of people messaging me and someone offered me what I wanted and left with it a few hours later. I may be back in the future but thanks to everyone who’s helped me in the past and everyone who has been a loyal follower of this post.

I cringed a little at your MSCN invoice. Don't get me wrong, they are great when you need something specific but holy hell they are expensive for everything you need. Guess it's worth it for quality though...

Finally got around to changing the gasket and washers. I found out that not only was the gasket super swollen but one washer was completely missing and pressure wouldn't have been applied in that section of the plenum. Since changing the gasket the cars been running great, idles awesome and no more significant boost pressure loss Thanks for everyone's input and help

Went to see @jmknights93 over the weekend and worked out what part of my problem may be despite hearing no audible leaks. It looks like the intake manifold gasket is blown out and probably torn and pushing itself out further. I have new gaskets already knowing this day would come so I'll probably change it in the coming days or weeks. Thanks for everyone's input, I'll make an update when I get around to it.

As much as I would seriously love this, I plan on selling the car soon enough. Haven't driven it for a while, the poor thing just gathers dust. The purpose of finding and fixing this issue is to make it more desirable to a buyer lol

Still haven't gotten around to checking this out further. Might just find someone to smoke test it while I'm at it in case I've missed something obvious. Might also get an inspection camera under the exhaust manifold and check if its cracked anywhere obvious

Its a Turbosmart replacement, its a possibility for sure but another reason for me to go high mount with external wastegate I can't rememeber because its happened a few days when I drove it. I would definitely like to test again on a long drive when the 40+ heat pisses off in Sydney. When I asked the tuner i used (going to try someone different next time - cough cough Johnny) they said that they don't use haltech to control boost because it requires adjusting in the ecu which is harder than doing it with a controller. Now I think of it I could always just up the duty cycle and see how it goes. I thought it sold already? I was considering it when I saw you post it lol.

Mishimoto has a pretty bad wrap in the Subaru community. It's always hit and miss but a common problem is their caps are garbage as Klutched said. I put a Mishimoto thick mofo in my misses Subaru because it was the only one we could get on short notice that actually fit and used the factory radiator cap and touch wood it hasn't been a problem since October.

Like GTSBoy said, common for the blend door actuator to break. Stick your head under the drivers side foot well and look to the left you will see an arm and rod there, the actuator is connected to it. Have someone jump in your car and change the temp up and down you should see the arm actuate the rod. If not then you will need to change the actuator

hey mate, i think the specs for the cooler are 620 x 266 x 76mm, I noticed it before Sydney got stupid hot recently but can wait till it cools down again later this week and check again. With the tester I have a nitto connector in a step down plug from bunnings but it doesn't have a gauge on it so I can't see if thats holding pressure. To test I just pressurized it from 5 psi, checked for leaks, 15 psi, checked for leaks, 20 psi checked for leaks by spraying joiners and the manifold Hope this helps.. might be worth changing my boost leak tester design tho

Hi All, Haven't really been active for a long time on here. Asked some questions on the R33 Owners page on Facebook and got some unhelpful responses so I thought I would try this community again (always been good). I haven't driven my 33 much at all lately since I bought my fourby but I like to take it out for a bit of a spirited drive on weekends when I get a chance. The last couple of times I've gone out I noticed that for the first 10 minutes or so my 33 makes full boost no worries but progressively over time it struggles to make 1 bar of boost (typically 1.3). I understand that heat soak is an issue but it has never been this bad since I've owned it. Car is a R33 with RB25, ATR45SAT Hyper Gear Turbo, Apexi AVCR boost controller, 3" exhaust with Venom cat, Pod filter in an enclosure, Blitz SE return Flow, Haltech ecu, Nismo 740CC injectors. Things I've checked - Exhaust manifold studs - 6th cylinder was loose, done them up - Turbo to manifold studs - one or two were loose, done them up - Changed all main vacuum lines - Boost leak tested, no noticeable leaks, sprayed joins etc - Checked over silicone joiners - no noticeable leaks or splits I do notice however that the upper section of the intake manifold has what looks like oil on the surface. I checked this when i used the boost leak tester and didn't hear or see anything. When I got back from the last test drive after I thought I fixed the issue, I boost leak tested it just to be sure and didn't hear anything obvious I always thought that it might be the intake manifold expanding as the engine bay heats up or the exhaust manifold leaking as it heats up. I thought I would ask here if anyone has any suggestions or personal experience on what I should be looking for with regards to this issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Apologies if this is in the wrong section, please let me know and I can have it moved. Thanks in advance for helping!

Thanks mate, Will go back eventually with some launch control. Broke my fourby so I'm just pouring money into getting it fixed. I could have probably got the skyline resprayed for what I'm about to fork out. Again, skyline goes on the back burner

Dat dash doe

I read your guide on it and thought yeah nah it doesn't sound that hard. You should really remove it permanently, so people don't follow down our shitty route. When mine had to come off again I paid a mates dads shop, it paid for itself in the time and pain saved.

You're becoming a professional at removing gearboxes hahaha.