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MotHot

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    R34 GTT
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    Thomas

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  1. Hey Tai! Just finished reading your thread on soarercentral from start to finish. Very nice build and a lot of cool selfmade stuff in there. The electronic wastegate actuator is awesome, but setting it up + 3d printing parts for it is way out of my league. Another question though: With your latest dyno session, whats the turbo shaft speed that your speed sensor is reading at max? Thanks and have a nice weekend!
  2. I thought the supra parts were already a few hundred bucks alone? Do you have a list of items that are needed for the e-iwg? Can't seem to find anything useful with google.
  3. @Timmaz300 looking really good so far, keep up the good work! @all: A friend of mine is collecting parts at the moment to go for about 600 (engine) hp and has snacked up a 8374 IWG. What are the options for the wastegate actuator on the IWG EFRs? Electronic actuator (with supra parts) as suggested in this thread in late August will probably be too expensive for him (500+ $/€ ?), because he just spent loads of money on parts. Are there even any complete kits available now or is it still "do it yourself"-style? The OEM actuator on the EFRs are the known weakpoint on the IWG EFRs, at least thats what this thread and similar threads on other forums suggest. So I wouldn't recommend this to him. If he does go this route, he will definetely need the high boost canister, because otherwise he wouldn't even be able to reach around 15 psi?! This leaves us with conventional aftermarket actuators, for example from turbosmart. Twin Port is probably the way to go here, because the price difference is not that big. Right? What about the position sensor? Is this necessary on a road car or similar to the BW turbo speed sensor (not a must, but very nice to have) or not necessary at all? Is there a noable difference in performance between the GenV and the IWG-75 twin port turbosmart actuator? Thanks guys 🙂 And regards from Germany!
  4. How much more work is it to get something like this setup working? I bought a turbosmart actuator for my IWG 7064 (on a rb25det), which I haven't installed yet. Not sure if I should go to an electronic actuator instead.
  5. In what use cases does an electronically controlled wastegate make the most sense? Small engine w/ small turbo, sm engine /w big turbo, big engine w/ sm turbo, big engine w/ big turbo?
  6. Any idea where the little dip from 4,4-4,6k rpm comes from?
  7. Wow, lots of up's and down's in this thread. Respect for not giving up. Hope its finally coming out the way you want it. Keep up the good work!
  8. Read through the whole thread in 2 days staight. Must say - really great car and appreciate you sharing the build. Looking forward to more dyno numbers and drag times!
  9. Great looking car. Already a lot of personal touches. Keep it up!
  10. Slightly offtopic - is that a tablet in the center console? If yes, what software does it use to display stuff? Windows or Android and what app? Thanks ? @Topic: My car currently has some issues with my IWG 7064 spooling about ~600 RPM later than normal. Had full boost @ around 3k RPM before, now it feels laggier and has full boost @ around 3,6-3,7k RPM. Feels a little like running a silencer. Already checked exhaust (running 3" custom made with exhaust flap) for problems, but catalysator is still intact, flap still working as intended and no other blockages. Intake side of turbo looks normal, exhaust side would need downpipe removal (didn't do that yet). Collegue mentioned it could be the spring in the wastegate actuator is either not preloaded correctly (screws would have to come lose?) or just can't hold the wastegate shut at low RPM. It has about 20k miles on it already, so who knows? Looking at getting a turbo smart 2 port actuator anyway, so will be probably tackle that over the next week/months. Sadly you need a new 4-port mac valve as well for that, which the my local supplier doesn't sell. Another thing to change would be the amount of blow off valves I have (yeah, you read that right) - I'm currently using the internal EFR blow off, as well as a HKS SSQV. Local supplier wondered how the hell we got that setup working and strongly suggested to remove one of the blow offs. Which will probably be the EFR blow off, not for technical reasons but mainly for the nicer sound of the HKS (form/sound follows function for me on this one). Current spec list (no changes since the last mapping session till the problem presented itself some time ago): RB25DET Neo (OEM pistons, Eagle rods, ARP head studs, Cosworth metal head gasket) Borg Warner EFR 7064 T3 IWG 6boost exhaust manifold Plazmaman intake manifold (noname) big FMIC Apexi air intake 7xx cc Bosch injectors LS2 coils Walbro fuel pump Tomei Poncams Type B (260° In/Ex, 9,15 Lift In/Ex) custom 3" downpipe & exhaust Link G4 ECU May be someone wants to take a guess ?
  11. Great thread, read the last few pages. Good to see someone doing proper maintenance work Only thing that I'd like is bigger pictures of the car!
  12. Wow, shocked to see you had a crash in the old car. Glad you didn't get hurt too bad. Excited to see what you make out of the new car(s)
  13. Oohh, shiny Looking forward to your results, hope everything comes together nicely!
  14. Ah, okay. Yes, dwell was adjusted for the LS2. What kind of power are you looking to make and what did the HTA previously make? I'd be more than concerned to turn the boost up with a stock engine. Sweet
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