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rickskylinebnr32gtrjp

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Okinawa, Japan

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  • Car(s)
    M35 Stagea, R32 GTR, R34 GTR
  • Real Name
    Patrick LaChance

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  1. Ollie, Why not just pull the CV spline straight out of the hub so as to move it out of the way? Nothing is holding it in place.
  2. XKLABA, I'm running 2.2 bar boost and not using a relay and like I said pretty rich A/F mixtures at WOT. And these coils work WAY better than my Splitfires using the same power source and dwell. Although, I did replace my engine harness about 5 years ago so my power/ground wiring might be in better condition than other cars with 20+ year old wiring.
  3. Scott, I thought I read in a couple of places that the stock dwell was 1700ms. If 2500ms that could be why mine are working without breaking up even with a rich 10.5:1 WOT A/F mix.
  4. I didn't use a relay. I just connected the power/ground from the Mojo harness to the stock power/ground plug and everything works as advertised.
  5. Okay, so I just tested my "parts store" made in China Araparts D585 coils and I have to say that I am pleasantly surprised that it ran a full 32psi of boost with no misfire. Although, I didn't do a full run through all the gears to redline, I thought if it was going to break up at all I would have seen or noticed it. Now, I haven't talked to my tuner yet about changing the dwell so I assumed that my HKS FCon V-Pro was still set at stock dwell settings. I'm thinking that either the dwell was already increased with the Splitfires that were in the car before or the HKS ECU is doing something that I don't know about.
  6. I'll let Rick B answer your questions about the kits available. As for the igniters, yes, they are built into the D585 coils.
  7. So the real D585's are made by AC Delco, right? I just want to be sure so I order the right set.
  8. Good to go! Started right up faster than my old Splitfire coil packs and no throttle modulation on cold start like I used to have to do to keep the idle from dying before warming up. That's impressive. Going to take the car out for a spin in the next day or two to see how the boost holds up with stock dwell. Regarding the aftermarket coils, it is my understanding that there are varying qualities and while pretty much all of them are made in China, many of the OEM's are also made in China. The coils I bought are made by Araparts and they seem to have a decent reputation and on Amazon most of the reviews for these coil packs are "5" with only a few "4"'s. I should find out soon enough if the aftermarket ones can't stand up to the abuse. Rick B: Do you have any specific test data or videos that I can look at to see what you're referring to?
  9. The wiring from the ECU side (firing order) that was given to me in the Mojo kit instructions looks like it's wrong. I'm going to test it shortly to see if what I found checks out. I guess I should have looked before cutting wires.
  10. I thought the same (that it should start and run at idle at the very least). No, I have not had a chance to check voltage at the coils yet. I need to do that. Yes the harness has it's own ground that I have connected/grounded along with the engine harness ground using one of the bolts for the mounting kit that screws into the head. No, I don't think it's possible to connect the individual connectors in the harness in the wrong order. Also, the kit comes color coded and with a great install diagram to match up to the stock wiring. I verified the colors on all wires and they appear to be accurate. I don't know anyone first hand who has used the LQ9 coils connected to an HKS FCon V-Pro ECU. Also, the cam timing is not zeroed out so there is some overlap at idle. The Mojo Performance kit is a plug on coil setup and I have read that without the resistance of the plug wires or resistor type spark plugs that there could be an issue as well.
  11. Installed my kit from Rick B at Mojo Performance and the engine is not starting. A few things to note. I have a piggy-back HKS FCon V-Pro ECU that is already tuned. Fully built forged motor with billet crank, Bullseye 375R turbo boosting 2.2 bar, redline set to 9500 rpm, 270 degree 10.8mm lift cams, high flow head, 1000cc Sard injectors, NGK Racing (temp 8 or 9) iridium spark plugs. ECU is still set to stock dwell so I thought I would plug in the new LQ9 coils (Araparts version) and Mojo wiring to test before having my tuner mess with the dwell settings. Well, the car won't start and misfires occasionally during the attempt to start. Any ideas? Is my setup to aggressive for stock dwell? Not enough spark at stock dwell settings? Or is something else going on?
  12. It's definitely an LED problem. I cut the wires to the LED to reuse the connector then soldiered them on to a red 12-LED strip that works great! So to pass inspection, I'm going to figure out how I want to permanently mount the LED strip (I might use clear tape for temporary mounting) inside the window. Also, going to plasti-dip the red lens so the inspectors won't be confused and tell me that the original light needs to be repaired.
  13. Honestly, I don't know when mine failed and I have had the car for 2 years. It is 12 years old now. I would guess that if it's an LED problem, that UV and heat probably have something to do with it. Living here in Okinawa, Japan it is subtropical and the heat, humidity, and corrosion as well as UV are very strong here. I replaced sun damaged parts 10+ years ago on my R32 GTR only to have the sun damage the replaced parts (seals, weather stripping, wiper arms, rubber trim, plastic interior pieces, etc.) again. So, that's where I'm coming from if that helps define my statement of a new light failing again at some point. In this environment, it will be sooner than later and not if, but when. As far as replacing parts, I go to the Nissan dealer out in town and with the yen getting weaker against the US$, the parts prices are getting more reasonable.
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