DMM

So, some big news! We are now going to be running an HGT precision 6 speed sequential gearbox on our car! This thing is a piece of work. Excellent quality gears and components! The kit that comes with it such as bellhousing, shifter, hydraulic throwout bearing and shifter display has been made to some seriously top level design and quality too. Everything is so precise and fits perfectly. The pics say it all. The gearbox itself only weight 39kg - insane. The torque rating is up near 900nm - we wont be pushing that though

Started ripping into things in the last 24hours. Pulled arms out for the sphericals that need attention. Mocked up engine to fabricate engine mounts soon also. Just going over everything to make a general list of whats needed to be done. Shocks i am going to pull out and rebuild/revalve as they are currently setup for something crazy like 1350lbs on the front springs.

Ive been chasing it for a long time. Always used to watch racing back in high school. Vehicle was advertised for 130k EURO.

Hi mate, We chose to steer away from most of Garretts range because of the dependency to generate HP through high high pressure ratio's up near the 30+PSI range. Garret just didn't suit our application which is quite unique. There are a few factors we have to target with this car: Reliability and efficiency across a wide powerband for endurance racing. Most likely a restrictor fitted for GT or other category events. Fuel economy and temperature reduction. Super crisp response/torque for door to door racing. When planning the engine it was always a goal for 550-600HP, and we could have done this through low comp/high boost and moderate camshafts. The problem with this is that your top end can really struggle up top for engine balance and also need plenty of fuel to offset the temps up high rpm to keep the power coming. Using the VE cylinder for us wasnt job for flow numbers, but the fact we can flow the same amount of air for lower temp and pressure, and much greater economy and better timing control for reduced temps. Although that housing looks small (its from an IHI) we have actually managed to fit a 60 odd mm turbine blade in there and squeezed plenty more flow with some multi axis milling. The choice for a more compact housing was to offset the large camshafts so we could still have some response down low and juggle the flow up top. The computer says we can get 700CFM with this setup through the turbo - time will tell how well it applies. So for us the goodness of a VE head doesn't just come from flow numbers and peak HP. We want a giant fat power band, that even under light load and part throttle delivers bucket loads of torque. This is something a DET head cannot do.

Hi mate, We are doing a few trick things to an OEM based block, although not an original/standard road block. Preferably wont be posting too much info for what we are doing in the way of preps, but it will be strong enough. Dry sump of course.

Heres some pics of the engine build and associated things: P12 SR20VE outer springs with 16ve inner springs. N1 retainers (16grams each!!) and special cams from the Nissan motorsport shelves. Custom CP pistons - 86.5mm, teflon style skirt coatings, ceramic top coat - few other trick things done underneath - but no pictures of this - Weight is 299/300grams per piston. Special NISMO I beam conrods with titantium bolts. Weight is 455 grams each. Exedy Hyper carbon clutch - managed to grab this from some old stock a friend in Japan had kicking around. Couldnt turn it down at the price he offered me!! Some port and polish work on the VVL head. Ive actually much further ahead than this point as its almost read to go, but it does give some idea. For this car the turbo has to be pretty crisp and responsive, but still give enough up to. Its a pretty hard stretch. We will be racing the car in various forms of motorsport, so having all top end is not really beneficial except for time attack. The turbo we are doing in house and is really a bitsa, and a little experimental.

Will be updating with pics soon - you can also keep an eye on the facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/dmmsydney It will be competing this year - entered in Pro-Am class! Engine is half built atm (i just need to pull my finger out and finish it) then all thats left is fit gearbox and kick it over!

So decided to buy myself a new track car. Car no. 2 of 3 built by Nismo (autostaff were contracted to fabricate to Nismo design). The car was raced during the 2001/2002 season in Super GT Japan - GT300 class. Unfortunately the car was plagued by bad luck and engine failures, but still managed to be 3rd in the championship both years. (in 2001 suspension failure cost them a DNF when in the lead and on points the championship, 2002 a tyre failure cost them in the same situation) I will update the thread with infomation and data as i go. keep an eye out for it at WTAC this year!

lucky man!!! Could have been ever worse if the car was running. I typically hate regassing struts, they leak out for a reason (seals perished/shaft scored/torn seal) and re gassing is a patch fix...If think you can generally get a pair of new struts for about 50-60! Regas is about 40....

I have not ran part numbers on the nm35 systems, but from the looks of it they run an r34 pump and clutch packs. The only way to confirm would be to look at the g sensor. If it is R34 data and programming it takes TPS, G sensor, wheel speed and the map sensor. Calculates over a matrix and runs variable prime pressures.

I plan on using this a daily, so I don't think ill ever see past 4k!

I chose to do my bolt tensions that way to reduce twist or shift. Not to stop a head gasket from lifting. Gaskets are designed by nature to be the weak point. Coolant issue is as you have said - failure to flow out the back of the block/heads. The two passages out of the rear of the heads are tiny and restricted from flow heavily. This is why is I'm adopting the centre relief in the valley to help with flow.

Ive found in the past angular torque stretches the block threads heavily. There have been some situations where a customer has requested a certain bolt with angular torque and it pulls the thread. The only way i've found against this is using helicoils to increase thread depth contact area. Mathematically when you use stretched alloy the thread bolt only touches around 60% of possible mating thread in the block. If it was all brand new then nothing wrong with angular as yes you are right - helps eliminate error. No twist - prepared in layers. Cleaned and oiled of course. Process as follows: 1)Spun bolts in and out 3 times to distribute oil evenly and wipe off excess after each spin. 2)Check block temp - anything over 25degree at 0.15% NM for every 1 degree over 25. 3) Torque all bolts to 65NM. Let gasket squish and settle. 4) Torque to 90NM - let set over night 5) Release bolts, remove and check oil coverage. You will see ghost marks on bolts if oil coverage is poor, otherwise will have nice even moist look. 6) Nip to 90NM again - just touch 90, no need for high tension load. 7)Torque to 105NM and finished. No bolt groan, no binding, no twisting process! Used this many time over the years on RB, SR and VQ engines. A lot have seen the loads of bathurst etc without engine failure.

I must say however I do prefer the VQ25 block over the same era VQ35 blocks. These blocks are much more boost friendly with a thicker sleeve and larger volume coolant chambers surrounding the sleeves. Also the OEm metal gaskets are very good - however I don't like they fact they pre coat them with the teflon/graphite mix. I threw mine in the light costic wash for a few hours to get rid of the coating

Well when you are running ARP head studs i would hope you don't have issues!!! FYI i've gone back to OEM studs - ditched the angular torque and run my own torque values (105NM final value). Angular torque on a used block is a waste of time and generally ends in uneven torque values. The issues with OEM bolts and open deck comes down to contact surface area. Nothing to do with iron alloy mixes....that wasn't even on the pallet for discussion haha. Like you say - flash boils - but the residual heat in the open deck decreases the dynamic torque of the studs and allows warping and reduced pressure between bolt spreads. When the pressure between the cylinders lifts obviously they blow through. I have never actually seen a VQ blow through on the outside of the open deck and lift to an adjoining oil passage - always happens middle of block between coolant chambers. I've blanked off my radiator cap. Fitted my own bubble tank with the pressure cap, teed off from turbo water feed (base of turbo), centre of valley, teed off top of thermostat and bridged and removed OEM plastic bleeder.