Maindog

There has been a fair bit of interest in my 3d printed rail delete kit, so I've decided to make these available. It's a bolt in replacement for the rails, made out of ABS plastic (think Lego) comes with fitted TPE gaskets to prevent water ingress. They are shaped to conform with the curvature of the rail base plates. Just unbolt the rails, slot these in and do up the nuts - hardest part is mucking around with the interior to get to the nuts - took me about four or so hours to install my prototype set. Each set is printed, assembled with the bolts, sanded and then treated with acetone vapour to bring the gloss back up. Upper and lower gaskets are then glued on. The outer surface isn't dead smooth but I'm working on an alternate printing method that should resolve this, so watch for updates. This is what they look like on the car: What you'll get: Some pictures showing the fitment. Note that my prototype set shown here has orange gaskets, yours will be black as in the picture above. A close-up of the finish on the top of the plugs. As noted previously this may be improved shortly: Now for the fine print: These have been designed specifically to fit my S2. I've got no reason to suspect that my S2 roof rail covers are a different shape to the ones on your Stagea, but I obviously can't guarantee that. No idea if the S1 covers are any different, but again I can't see why they would be. Introductory price is $250 per set, once the first ten are sold price will be $300 plus postage (from Tasmania). Since I essentially make each one of these by hand I'll be making them to order - PM me to enter the queue and once yours is ready I'll PM you payment details and get your delivery address etc. Lead times will be variable as I'm away for work a bit of the time - but expect to wait a few weeks minimum. I have also designed and printed mounts for the front speakers to hold 6.5" speakers in the original mounting position, as well as the centre console coin tray (S2 only at this stage, still working on getting the smaller S1 tray drawn up) - PM me if you're interested in either of these. Any questions/clarifications don't hesitate to ask here or flick me a PM. Cheers, Ryan.

Thanks. Printed them on my 3d printer, bit of sanding to finish them off. Could print off a batch of them if there's enough interest I suppose.

Spent the last couple of weekends prototyping a rail delete kit. Covers bolt in place of the rails and have (printed) gaskets to keep the water out. The covers don't look as good as a full patch job and respray obviously, but I like the fact that its reversible if I ever need to put the rails back on. Cheers

Sounds like the ATTESA relay clicking, the pump draws a fair amount of current which can draw the voltage down if the battery is weak. How often is it happening? You might want to look at replacing the pressure accumulator if its happening a lot.I went and replaced the tiny battery that came with my car with an optima coiled cell AGM battery. No voltage dips now, though the relay still clicks a bit.

There is a pressure sensor in the pump assembly, so that'd be one explanation.

PM sent mate.

Guys have cleaned up the earths in the chassis, made some improvement but I wouldn't consider it resolved. Cant test with the old unit as I don't have it anymore. System has been flushed and bled again so I think we can rule out air in the lines. Interestingly, I've noted previously that the relay doesnt click when the car is cold, and starts after about 5 minutes of driving. I assumed that it'd take at least an hour or so to cool back down to the point where the clicking stops, but looks like its a much shorter period of time. Just filled up with fuel (5 minutes maybe) which was long enough to 'reset' the clicking issue.

Followed this thread from facebook lol. The torque gauge isn't a measurement I'm afraid, just a setpoint from the attesa controller, doesnt actually mean the torque is being applied to the fronts.

Thanks guys. Car is back at the mechanics, said he had a few things to try out and that the accumulator I bought off ebay was definitely a new unit. I suspect it may be a dicky pressure sensor but I'll know more by the end of the day.

Yes this had occurred to me lol. It was bought off ebay, looked new and had the seal, document in japanese etc, but there's a probably a lesson in there somewhere. Don't have the old one unfortunately, told the mechanic to turf it thinking I wouldn't need it any more. Thanks for the offer; I'll take it back to the workshop next week and see what they've come up with for the next round of testing - hopefully they'll still have the old accumulator or at least another one to test with. If not I'll get back to you - might be interested in that pump of yours by then...

Bleeding the system hasn't helped unfortunately.

Thanks guys, Agree it does sound like air in the system, though the accumulator was installed and the system bled by a local mechanic who is pretty much the go-to guy for anything imported (says hes done dozens of accumulators in R32s). I'd be surprised if it was air, but I'll bleed it again myself tonight. Reservoir is full. The ECU isn't throwing codes, but that's the main ecu not the attesa ecu - is there a different proceedure for reading attesa errors? Thanks DaveB, I'll keep that in mind if it comes to that. One thing I forgot to mention is that the 4WD actually works fine. So the transfer case is getting the pressure that it needs which probably rules out the pump itself, though the pressure switch could be faulty. I think the attesa ecu itself can be ruled out too based on the fact that the pump triggers a fair bit trying to keep the system pressurised in 50/50 mode, so it definitely seems to be a response to a perceived drop in hydraullic pressure, rather than the ecu thinking that I'm accelerating when I'm not. Which leads me to the following theories: 1. Air still in the system/accumulator not charged correctly - easy enough to verify by bleeding it again; 2. Pressure sensor in the atessa pump assembly is not sensing correctly, causing the attesa ecu to think there is less pressure in the system than there is - could be tested by replacing the sensor; and 3. Signal from the pressure sensor is noisy due to bad grounding or noisy system voltage (volt reading on my ECUTalk module isn't anywhere near steady) - I'll verify voltage stability with my oscilloscope tonight and maybe pull a larger battery out of the ute to try to stabilize voltage to see if that helps. Cheers, Ryan.

So my S2 has had the relay clicking noise since I bought it about six months ago. Started off as an occasional thing that you'd notice a couple of times while driving to work. Lately however it's deteriorated to the point where it'd click every 15 seconds or so, even waiting at the lights. Really noticeable at night as the headlights dim whenever it happens. After reading up on the issue I sourced a new accumulator which was fitted today (and attesa system bled obviously). Unfortunately this seems to have made the problem worse; once the system is warm it'll click rapidly a few times in a row every so often, and probably clicks once every 10 seconds or so when driving. Pressing the 50/50 torque split button (when stationary) causes the pump to trigger four or five times within a second, which pulls the voltage down enough to reset the head unit. This doesn't happen when the car is cold however; clicking starts once its warmed up after driving a few minutes. I've checked the battery connection as suggested in another thread (no corrosion at all) and I've replaced a grounding strap on the rear sub-frame that had broken off - this didn't change anything. Car has brand new wheels and tyres too so everything should be the same size. No fault codes according to my ECUTalk hand unit, but not sure if that's comprehensive enough. Certainly no warning lights on the dash at all. I'm a loss as to what to look at next - any suggestions? Voltage dip leads me to think that grounding might be an issue somewhere? Cheers, Ryan.