Dev RB25

I had a similar issue before, i resolved it by performing a clean install on the drivers. Ever since never had that error pop up again. been using fc hako close to 3 years, still running great.

only thing i can think of is a faulty afpr. thats the only thing that could possibly be "fixed" by leaning out the pressure. pulled out the vacuum line no visible fuel, but there was definitely scent of fuel. maybe the diaphragm is starting to rupture? gonna try to replace the afpr and hope for the best

ok.. now i get it. thanks for that.. did plenty of reading reg the advance and retard and finally got the grasp of that as well. so i turned my focus to the afrs. AFPR set 3bar - 0 vacuum , on vac - 2.5bar (liquid gauge type that came with afpr) Plug gap 1mm afrs on vacuum at abt 14.7 slowly free rev car, as soon as 0 vacuum on boost gauge, i see the afrs plummet to abt 11's . and ive alr adjust heaps on the correction map, yet it still plummets. so this got me thinking to reduce the afpr and watch the afrs again. so i had to reduce it from like 2.5bar(vac) to abt 1.9 to see afrs lean out to abt 16. from here.. i slowly adjusted the afpr back to about 2.3bar and did some corrections on the map..now the correction values seem more 'normal'. so after checking afrs, i free revved the car, and it revved all the way to the redline this time with no miss and after releasing the throttle, the engine idles normally.. everything seems to be ok. no funky idle like on 5cyl, and engine doesnt die. what the hell happened? ive reduce the pressure to 2.3bar before and adjusted afrs before, but it never fixed the issue. but after dropping it severely to 1.8~1.9 forcing the lean out, this somehow got things working again. 1 more difference. it use to hold pressure after key off at around 1.5bar for quite a while like maybe minutes. now when i key off...it drops all pressure within seconds. so something has changed. im just not sure how and why, any ideas?

thanks scott for clearing that up...

yea is starts fine. just troubleshooting a weird high rpm misfire. but i finally got arround to figuring this cam timing vs crank timing . Advance timing = anti clockwise rotation Retard = clockwise applies to cam timing Advance timing = clockwise rotation Retard = anti clockwise is for crank. the cas is a crank angle sensor mounted onto the cam. therefore advance is clockwise. and i just learn that the service manual says advance -

just realised my understanding was all wrong. not sure if it was the threads i was reading or kind of misguided myself. or the way things were said. i finallly understand the difference between cam timing vs crank timing. what i dont understand is why the service manual says to advance timing is anti clockwise.

CAS sensor problem Hi guys, Advance timing = anti clockwise rotation on cas = higher timing value on pfc Retard = clockwise = lower timing value Right? The issue is, my pfc reads lower timing when i advance , and higher value when i retard. Will this point out to a faulty CAS or wiring between the 2 signal wires swapped around ? my mechanic recently did an FFP upgrade and he messed around with some of the wirings, because he wanted to tidy up the engine bay. Hoping if any can shed some light if its a simple as just swapping the wires or should i replace the cas?

the gap acutally helped. it revs till abt 6.7k when i release the throttle. it idles like its on 5 cylinders and clears up after 5 secs+- . and when i try to find which cylinder , it always ends up at number 5, ive tried swapping injectors around and same thing.. and i also noticed today, then when i advance (anti clockwise) the cas , my power fc with datalogit reads lower timing, when i retard (clockwise) it reads higher timing... wtf .. is my cas f*ked? or wiring ?

alright im gonna try this out. so far ive tried 0.6 0.7 and 0.8gaps. havent tried 1mm on the iridiums. ill test this out and hope i get the issue resolved.

i got my pulley, and noticed something interesting. all over the internet and included i just got to try out, is actually slightly different on the inside of the gear. everybody else gear seem to have this a more chamferred design compared to mine which is straight up flat. ive searched for hours, and cant find anybody having similar vct gear as mine. i mean wtf right? what are the odds. my gear is the last pic at the bottom

you were right bro... it wasnt the injectors and the afm... would a stuck/jammed vct show same symptoms ? i recently removed the vct solenoid and tried to power it directly with a battery... solenoid ticks actuator closes oil passage... but no change in idle when i do it with the car running. and no power loss at low end with socket disconnected and driving around.

pulled of the intake pulley, noticed in the vct cam gear, small amount of debris, oil inside the gear felt rough. suspect this could have gotten the pulley stuck. got another pulley from a friend on its way. hope this fixes the problem.

not much help eh .. hahah its ok ..ill just keep this post updated in case anyone is facing the same issue. today i got the cam covers off... tried moving the intake manifold but the main bolt(after removing the vct cover plate with spring loaded in) and it was not moving. it was stuck. tomorrow ill be removing the timing belt off, and pull the intake pulley out and have a look.