Paymh

I know this is an old thread but the second wire (black/red) on the two pin connector is most definitely not a ground. If you take apart the OEM harness it connects solely to the cylinder 1 trigger wire. Obviously not a ground, not sure what damage grounding that / using as a ground would be but not preferable..

Rattling in gearbox clutch disengaged/neutral Hey guys so been trying to track this issue for ages. When going over bumps or turning a corner/reversing with the gearing disengaged/clutch partially engaged the gearbox rattles heaps. Can physically feel all the gears rattling inside the gearbox and its real loud. The cars a r33 gtst with a tight shimmed diff i originally thought it was because of the diff being locked but since it happens going over bumps im not so sure...although its much much worse when reversing while turned. This issue leads me to the next problem which is a grinding between gears which i first thought to be the syncros but the issue is so much worse if you're mid drift and try to shift it grinds so much worse which i think stems from the above rattling as i pushed the clutch in to shift and the gears bounce all around the joint... Tranny mount when i bought the car was as loose and worn as an old hooker its since been made solid with polyurethane, all rear bushes replaced cept stock diff bushes, subframe collars, no difference made with those changes. Not sure what it could be. Don't think its engine mounts because its only with clutch disengaged so shouldnt matter..Thoughts lads? Thanks!

No obviously not haha. I just wanna make sure I got it all correct. I've checked the manual but it doesn't go over it when timing is all f**ked up like this though? Sorry if its a dumb question, I know its been asked but this case seems different to a normal change belt case?

Hello again, I finally got the car all together and working to find it drives like crap. There's weird sounds out of the timing gear, to which I found a video online exactly the same sound..Idler pulley. So I'll replace all the pulleys. But here's where I have no clue what to do. The previous owner upon purchase had said he screwed up the timing and it slipped off or something to that tone, so I know the timing is likely rooted as well as the car driving like trash points to this. I cannot get the marks to line up with the markings on the cam gears / backing plate but I can get them to line up with where they have drawn lines which are miles from where the OEM lines are. This is the first time I've done anything timing related but I've read heaps but I'm not sure how to fix this issue. Here's some images below of what I mean. http://imgur.com/a/6kZCk What steps would I take to correct this. Thanks in advance.

Alright so re-soldered the AFM, now revs up to 5000rpm instead of 2,500rpm. Still get a lot of misfiring at the 5k mark now as well as intermittent misfiring from the 3k rev range. So it seems the AFM fix did somewhat solve it. Would the 5k misfires be a coilpack issue? EDIT: I feel pretty dumb now, popped the bonnet and found the vacuum hose for the fuel pressure regulator had popped off during the test. One would assume my issue was solved by re-soldering the AFM and the 5k misfiring was caused by that.

Thanks mate I'll give it a go and report back

Hey all, my consult cable finally arrived today and I've been playing around with it. I noticed that the timing sits at 15 according to the ecu but if you rev it in neutral then let off it drops to between -3 to 5 depending on what it's revved to then goes back to 15. As this is my first skyline I'm not sure if this is normal, from searching it seems like it isn't? Could this be caused by an atmo blow off valve (replacing soon) as the timing drops at the same time as it dumps or by bad timing? The car won't rev above 2,500rpm without serious misfiring under load so is this another sign of bad timing. My first thought for the misfire issue was bad coils as two seem to be from a rb20 and the other 4 are OEM, meaning two already died from previous owner, but now with the timing doing what it is, I'm not sure. I haven't had a chance to get it checked out because its unregistered right now so taking it to a tuner is tough. TLDR; Negative timing after letting off gas Won't rev above 2,500rpm under load without tonnes of misfiring, revs fine in neutral Any decent mobile mechanics in brisbane area Thanks!

Right right, that makes more sense. Cheers guys. Rather than making a new thread, any ideas about a very loud screeching at clockwise full lock. That would be an overly tight power steering pump tensioner right? Since it's stock suspension that should rule out body rubbing, but it definitely sounds more mechanical. Is my assumption correct?

It does have an immobilizer (a really annoying one at that), the previous owner said its currently muted so I guess that could be a volume adjustment for it.

Hello, Recently bought a r33 gtst s1 knowing it had a fair few issues. I'm trying to fix everything up but I've come across this little black box spliced into the main wiring under the steering wheel / above the pedals. It has no branding on it other than a model number (40ae018294111, which turns up nothing), and a white turn dial. There's also a black box above it which is ziptied, not sure what that is either. The previous owner has no idea what it is as he never got it running correctly either. Checking the history it seems to have boost gauges/controllers added / removed multiple times so its a bit of a spaghetti inside and outside the car. Here's some images of it (they are awful sorry!) - http://imgur.com/a/b8vv9 It's hooked up to a red,black,white cable, obviously power,ground + other. I checked the wiring diagram but couldn't figure it out myself, any help would be appreciated if possible. As well as the main running issue being it won't rev above 2,500rpm without severe misfiring. I assume its the coils, since 4 are OEM and 2 are from an rb20, but if you have any other ideas other than the usual AAC valve, spark plugs etc, that would be sweet as well! Thanks