kiwi_rock

Hi guys. I wan to install a new aftermarket keyless entry system with some new features. I've remove the old wireless receiver behind the glove box and I've traced all the doors except the drivers door back to the main two wires by the smart entry/central locking module on the drivera side. It's all normally ground and connects possitive to the side required for lock or unlock. This is easy to wire up however the drivers actuator is only a 4 not 5 wire actuator. One of which is ground another one with a constant 12v. The other two I think are the key possition switch outputs. When I lock or unlock the ground and 12v wire doesn't change polarity in the drivers door like the rest. I'm a bit confused to how the drivers door can be actuated. I'm happy to for go central locking for just keyless entry central locking however the drivers door actuator has me stumped as for it's wiring. I don't plan on ever putting the factory keyless back in so I'm looking for ideas on how the drivers door actuator wiring works. Cheers.

Hi guys, I've got a '96 RWD stagea, about 123,000K's it's up to now, thrown about 40,000 on in the past year and a half. I've been rotating the tires and found some grease lurking around and tracked it down to a stuffed boot on the ball joint of the drivers side tie rod. I'm thinking about just replacing the entire tie rod ends on both side as the parts store reckon about $25 per replacement kit. So I've removed the castle nut and with some downward pressure gave the casting on the hub a swift belt with a hammer to try and loosen the tie rod incase it's still reusable. There doesn't appear to be any play but I can fell some gritty dirt in the joint. Anyway, the tie rod end refuses to slip out, any other ideas of a nice way to remove it without stuffing it? BTW, I'm no mechanic, but I'm technically minded. So thought I'd give it ago and since I've got the time over the holidays before I need it in 2 weeks to go to the airport a few hundred K's away and the local mechanics are fully booked during that time. But I can slip in for a wheel alignment once I've done the work myself. Thanks for any help, kind regards. Gavin.

The oil type and quality I'm not worried about, just the level on the dipstick. I put 4.8L incl filter in to it and it was over the cross-hatch and just over the H aswell. Mine's a 2.5L non-turbo. I think it's got about 4.5L in it now to cover the cross-hatch on the stick. Just wondered why most mechanics always fill the oil to over the cross-hatch and just over the full marker, they must really me back for another $500 rear main job. I haven't gone fully synthetic as it's already got near 100,000K's and magnatec seems to stick well to the camshaft so I'm happy before I turn on the key for the extra little savings.

The mechanics filled the engine oil to just over the "H" on the dipstick but below the indent on the stick its self. After getting the rear main and the gasket's done, I've emptied about 500ml to get the oil level spot on the top of the cross-hatch below the "H' letter. Where abouts do you guys fill it to? Cheers, Gavin.

Where abouts do you guys fill the oil to, to cover the "H" but below the indent on the stick, or to the top of the cross-hatch below the H letter? The difference on mine is about 500ml of oil. I decided to make sure it was dead on the top of the cross-hatch after getting a few seals and gaskets replaced rather than over the H like the mechnics before my oil changes did. Cheers, Gavin.

I've thought about doing some towing with it, although I'll have to ad a towbar first, then perhaps a transmission cooler. After reading about that weird idlign issue, mine seems to run fine, starts up at 1,500 til the airbag's do a check, then sits on 1,200 cold, then 700 warm. Brakes don't seem to make any difference. Well after having the rear main seal replaced one week, new silicon seal done on the rear aloy gasket the next week, I think the bugger still hasn't stopped leaking a drip of oil every 400K's, or at least showing signs of a slight leak on the bottom of the bell housing (fingers crossed it's still residue from replacing the main rear). Mechanics had it up on a hoist running for 2 hours after pressure testing the engine and re-sealing the bellhousing, then as always, get it home, plonk on the K's... then it shows up a slight trace of a new leak they keep missing, not dripping yet, but it's slowly gathering on the bottom of the bell housing, and doesn't appear to be run off from anywhere else but the seal or from the little vent hole used to lock the fly wheel up. Think I'm just having a bad run with pin holes in the gasket sealant at the rear, or fingers crossed before I get time to have the transmission pulled out again that it goes away. Otherwise I'm still impressed with it's condition otherwise, already used to have a 6 cylinder. Cheers, Gavin.

I found it, the torque converter locking up. With OD locked at about 90K's there's a sudden 300RPM reduction (hardly noticable as someone mentioned). Sits on 2350RPM at 100K's I've decided on the reasonbly flat road. Got a reply from Nissan re: tether points, none for this import year from Japan. Oh well, 6 months to sort that out. Nissan NZ are faster at looking up stuff and replying to emails than a few other's I've delt with, considering it's a Jap import. Spent today removing the rear hatch seal (after checking for any hidden anchor points) and doing some sanding/air painting at the bottom of the panel joints near the hatch door bolt. Found some light rust under the seal there, but nothing I couldn't sand back with the drill and repaint, then re-tighten the seals grasp. :idea: Which brings me to another question, why on earth does the rear hatch have an electric motor to help the locking mechanisim latch down on the door? Least it stops the missus from slaming it now. :idea: Hey & how do I tell if I have a limited slip diff? Sometimes I get stuck, second attempts are fine up the likes of a 35 degree grassy slope. I found putting the hand brake on slightly was enough to stop wheel spin to get moving once. So I'm guessing it's proberly all open in the RWD?. Thanks for all the replies guys, hugely appreciated. I'll go have a nosey on the .co.nz forums soon. Cheers, Gavin.

I dunno what's up with the sheep thing and aussies. We've got far less per capita here lol. I'm half aussie anyway & the missus is a 100% aussie. RE: octane, seems to run on 91 regular ok, so I went to 96 premium and still seems as good as. I had a feeling it should be running at least 96, I didn't think a skyline type engine should be on anything less unlike the sales guy. It's $1.31 a litre for 96 here which I don't mind, dunno what 98 is worth. I could also pump some $4.31 a litre avgas 115 octane at the areoclub, that'd be fun. Yip, I know the cargo net tie downs above the rear strut wells, I have my net up (it's a 25X model). Plus there's the 4 on the floor for another third party net or rope. But this one's behind those spring-hinged flaps that go up and down with the seat to cover the gap between the folding part of the middle seat and the bottom of the seat. It just doesn't seem secure enough to me compared to the cargo one's. Oh well, I flicked an email to Nissan NZ to see if they have other ideas. I pulled off all the plastic clip covers in the rear just then to see, but they are only screw covers for the clips. I think they're for those pull-out covers which mines missing. I love the idea of the cigarette socket in the back, very handy. BTW, what RPM does the 4 speed auto cruise at on 100KM's? Mine's 2400, usually 1900-2000 in 3rd around town. I don't feel the converter lock up in mine, haven't gotten that in tune with the drive line yet. Although I do notice it kicks a tad after acceleration then taking the foot of the gas. But I've noticed all auto's do this, this one is just a little more noticable having a 6 cly in it and a little more hevy. Cheers, Gavin.

Hi there, Looks like a good place for any questions on stagea's. Just signed up, from NZ. After owning a few Toyota all wheel drives that ppl thought where Subaru leperosy's (my Toyota's broke down far less), I deiced to go back a step to a 1996 RWD stagea, something with more tit and less parts to fix. I think they're terrific to drive. Suspension is the most road comfortable I've ever driven in the past few years appart from the 350Z I had for a week on loan. Thought I'd never own a Nissan, as they seem to rust quicker than a lot of others I've had (that doesn't seem to have changed much), but they this is my first Nissan and their comfort level for bad backs is tops. I dunno if mine was a good price to pay or not, but I got mine for $8,700NZ with 92KM's. Had the power steering pipework replaced under warranty and a new rear main engine seal and re-silicon job on the aluminium plate on the bell-housing from an anoying bloody slow oil leak (turned out to be a pin-hole in the plate joining but looked like a rear main). Dealer got everything done under warranty including the stuff that didn't need done, no excess. Now I fell like I have a decent car. I plan on getting the owners manual in english from Aussie and a workshop manual for the RB25DE some time afterwards. Car sales guy said it runs on 91 octane? although I'm running it on 96, I read somewhere the compression ratio of the 2.5L is designed for premium. 96 octane is the highest where I live, 98 in the bigger cities, so I went with 96. These things must have a knock sensor cause on 91 it was fine for a few full tanks. Does anyone know if there are child seat tether points in the stagea wagons? I've got a little hook right behind the middle rear seat belt behind the seat, but it's anchored with a wide bar through the seat stitching which I don't think it's a tether point as I would have imaged it's for bolting. The rear cargo one's don't seem to be in a good spot for this use either. Cheers, Gavin.