mr_rbman

quite a small turbo for a 2.8 🤨

Interesting 🤨 I bought mine this time last year during the Black Friday sales so would consider myself in the 'early' buyers and mine had none of the above issues u mentioned.. The biggest gripe I had though is i bought new studs and nuts (tiutanium) at the same time and without heavily modding an old 12mm ring spanner I never would have been able to tighten two of the nuts.. I had no issues controlling boost (running a 45mm TurboSmart gate), I'm not making huge power / running huge boost though so probably not the best example...

I find the swaybars (ARB's or whatever...) are good with a softer setup like the bilstien shocks and springs but when running a true adjustable coilover, standard ARB's are the way to go, speaking from personal experience...

apparently end of this year is the target...

working on it

Ah yes, sorry Lith, forget not everyone obviously knows my car.... Tuner couldn't get the graph to print with RPM scale so he's sending it to me when he sorts it... This is E85 (actually E79), relatively basic forged typical RB26. Link ECU Kelford cams 264 degree (8.9mm lift) Plazmaman 76mm intercooler Artec V-band manifold G30-900 (1.01) V-band 45mm Turbosmart gate I've come from a twin setup (custom -7's) making roughly 40-50kws less, there is no denying it's better in every way.. I was impressed and happy with my twin setup and only removed as I had issues with the rear one otherwise i probably would've kept them This combo makes all the right sounds and the things like transient response etc is what i love about this current setup...

The only one I know of on a 2.6 is a G35-900 (0.83 rear) making 528rwkws @ 35psi.

Here's my results from a G30-900 (1.01) on my RB26. Pretty impressive for such low boost I thought but it's already at the end of it's efficiency.. Still, more than enough for what is predominantly a street car...

Finally hopped back on the dyno.. The LS alternator upgrade and going to a heavier gauged direct feed wire for the fuel pump solved my voltage drop issues... Managed to squeeze a few more killerwasps out of her but the turbo is getting out of it's efficiency range now, nevertheless she feels great.... The new RE71RS' vs my 10 yr old RS3's probably don't help the power figure either but that is here nor there... Now just to monitor and keep on top of oil pressure issues, I'm running Penrite ten tenths 10W50 overfilled to 6L and it's getting very close to the cut (obviously not ideal) but my last resort before going bigger sump is to follow the Motive recommendation of going to a 10W60...

The sensor for the Link ECU is located on the turbos oil feed line...

not actually 100% sure, will find out...

This is reading directly from the link on my laptop whilst live monitoring

How long should oil 'typically' take to get up to temperature? ~75 - 80 degrees? After 10 minutes of idling and then 15-20 minutes of sedate driving I'm lucky to get oil temps up over 60 degrees and i don't even run an oil cooler...

we could always potentially swap turbos down the track if it doesn't have the response you were chasing 😜 Though the more i drive mine the more i like it... 🤪I'm back on the dyno this Friday to see if we can turn things up a little now the alternator is upgraded...

assuming your car is being done at JMS!?!