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BlindspottNZ

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About BlindspottNZ

  • Birthday 06/09/1986

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Perth

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  • Car(s)
    GT-T
  • Real Name
    Nic

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  1. Doesn't seem that I can edit/delete the original post, but fyi, this is now being sold on consignment through a dealership (KS Motor); who can offer finance etc, for a higher price than it is listed here
  2. My Awesome GT-T My awesome R34 GT-T - $19,000 ER34 factory manual turbo coupé in highly desirable GV1 black pearl, fastidiously maintained, owner for past 5 years Excellent street car with the potential for much more Huge amount of time, effort and money in this car, would like to see it go to a good home It has travelled 122,xxx k's and has the following mods: ENGINE: Full Exhaust 5zigen, APexi pod filter, 750cc Simmens injectors, Twin flow fuel rail, Turbosmart FPR with braided fuel hoses and speedflow fittings, Gates Barricade soft fuel lines to and from filter (E85 safe), Catch can plumbed to intake with aeroflow fittings, Head port and polished (exhaust ports matched and knife edged, lumps in exhaust ports removed, CC's cleaned up) Durapro graphite head gasket, ARP headstuds, Tomei cam cap studs, Tomei Poncam Type B 260 cams properly installed i.e. reshimmed and clearanced solid lifters to suit, Supertech valve stem seals, Sikky heat deflecting intake gasket, Gates timing belt, new water pump, tensioner bearings etc, Front mount intercooler and custom piping, BOV removed, Motorbike battery (~15kg lighter than the 20yr old stock unit with a higher CCA), Front facing inlet manifold with internal trumpets, 90mm throttle, TCS removed, RB26 rocker cover set custom painted gold with rising sun, front cover customised to fit NEO VCT gear, anodised bolts all round, new fasteners in many places, MOTUL oil in engine, REDLINE in gearbox, Nistune ECU tuned at Garage 101 SUSPENSION BRAKES WHEELS AND TYRES: HKS Hipermax coilovers (best you can get for this car imo), GReddy/Alcon 330mm Front brakes, two piece alloy hat rotors, 4 piston titanium coated calipers, running Pagid RS4-2 rally pads (~$6000 setup new...) Braided front brake lines, PBR Racing fluid, 19" ROH wheels 245/35 all round, good tyres, Alloy wheel nuts, Pink tyre valve caps BODYWORK: Fresh paint job in factory GV1 black pearl in 2016, Custom body kit (Genuine Nismo plastic rear bar, custom side skirts, Z-Tune style front bar), Seibon Carbon fibre bonnet ($1200...), China Carbon fibre boot, Nismo clear front indicators, Nismo quarter badges INTERIOR: Defi heads up display, HKS turbo timer, Nismo metal pedal set, Nismo gear knob, Touch screen SONY head unit with decent front splits, JDM S15 Steering wheel (original included in sale if you prefer), clean and tidy Looks, sounds and drives amazing Pretty much the only stock thing is the turbo, due to the flow mods/cams it has near instant response (producing boost by 2000RPM) and bags of torque low down so is absolutely awesome as a street car, does limit high RPM power but as I have never tracked and don't thrash the car this has never bothered me... Supporting mods there to make big power should you wish to change the set-up Would love this to go to a good home and be looking as good as it is today in another 20 years For insurance purposes I will do the driving unless you are coming back with the full amount after making a deposit Car is located in Perth near the CBD Thanks for looking and have a good day May be easiest to txt me on O4O5986-747
  3. Hey guys, I made up an adaptor plate kit for my personal car and had a few extras cut at the same time, limited supply Flange/Adaptor kit to attach an R34 NEO AACV Idle air/water temp control unit to an R33 intake/inlet manifold/plenum Necessary when installing the majority of after-market RB25 manifolds ie GReddy/freddy onto a NEO to retain factory idle control Kit comes with bolts and gaskets for both sides (one of which passes over two of the bolt heads, these spots need to be sealed with liquid gasket) $60 posted Australia wide Cheers
  4. Hey guys, After an RB26 cover set (rockers, timing, valley) OEM, going to be repainted etc so not after anything fancy. I'm located in Perth. Cheers
  5. Sealant/glaze first, wax after. The wax is the outer 'service' layer and can be taken away or built up as needed, the clean surface of your paint remains sealed under the sealant.
  6. Hey man thank you very much ! Do you know the number for the longer ones with the baffles on also? No stud is protruding its in there deep
  7. which is going to make it lots of fun to remove
  8. but it is a pretty pitiful amount of torque to snap a bolt!
  9. They've just come in and out a few times, plus this one was in the middle right beside the exhaust ports so would have had the largest heat cycles I did the head, put the standard cams back in, then changed to tomeis but didnt have the time to do the shims at that point, so out they came again... so yea this is really the 4th time they have been torqued up
  10. Did the shims in my NEO the other day and the final bolt in the cam cap sequence decided to snap off in my head during the final torque... Having abit of trouble finding new aftermarket ones, only ones I can seem to find are Tomei RB26 ones. They are a seperate stud and nut design like most aftermarket studs which is what I would prefer. I'm not sure if they will be an exact replacement for the RB25 NEO ones? Anybody know if A) I could use the Tomei RB26 ones or B) Anywhere that makes a set to suit my engine Worst case scenario I'll have to use OEM ones but expect to be ripped off + they failed anyway so meh... Thanks
  11. and if the price is the same as the other B1 frame turbos...
  12. In my opinion upgrading the retainers is not necessary, the extra pressure from the upgraded springs makes it even more unlikely for them to pop out as there is less chance of valve float at revs... they are held in by the spring pressure so as long as spring pressure does not slacken and let them move around/come out its all good While it is safer to have stiffer springs, I honestly doubt they are really neccessary if the engine is not been revved over 7000RPM and your cams have a smaller lift than say 9.5 If someone has seen valve float in an RB occuring on a dyno with stock springs under this speed or with cams smaller than this then I am incorrect Poncams (which dont require uprated springs) go up to 9.15 lift and the stock rev limit is around this, so I would imagine it would be well within the OEM springs capacity...
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