woza01

In the process of removing my front bumper, I broke one of the Clips that secures my top grill to the body. 2 Pics attached showing what it looks like. Anyone Got one ? I also need an RB26 Dipstick AND dipstick Tube.... Im building the RB26 for my Datsun 260Z, so I need a rear Bowl Sump. I Know the Nissan ones are NLA....but by chance...does anyone have one ?....I have a larrge capacity RWD Sump to sell or trade in return !

Ah ok...well I don't need the brake ducts anyway.... mine are fine, and yiu have the correct inner guards for a 96 anyway...so all good. You dont by chance have the front grill clip I need do you? Cheers mate... I'll have to have a think...I'm in WA, so unfortunately I'm thinking that postage on such an awkward bulky item will be prohibitive Cheers mate Woza

Hey Nofigjam.... Cheers for the reply mate... looks good....I wasn't aware that there are differences between the year models. Mine is a 96... do you have that year ? I'll check on the weekend and compare my inner guards to your photo... I'll also check on the state of my undertray/guard Where are you located mate? Cheers Woza

Hey ! Anyone out there parting out a 33 GTR ? I have broken one of my front grille mounting clips/brackets.....need one if someone has one - Im not sure if any other models use the same clip. pics attached of the unbroken clip Also looking for the front inner guards - not sure of their exact name, but the its plastic moulded inside part of the guards, that essentially seals off the wheel arch from the engine & bumper area. my tyres have rubbed a hole in mine lol Also looking for 2x clips that secure the brake lines to the firewall. Please let me know if anyone can help - cheers

RB25DET Inlet Manifold - Sandblasted I have for Sale an RB25DET Inlet Manifold. It has been completely sandblasted, so is ready for paint/polish/clearcoat...whatever the pictured Fuel Rail is NOT included (Its already been sold) $60 ono Located in Mandurah, WA Happy to answer any questions...

mate u still got these ?..4 stud or 5 stud ?

mate u still got this ?

WTB R33 4 Stud Space Saver - H E L P ! I am looking for a 4 Stud R33 Space saver Spare Wheel - I have an RB Powered Datto 260Z, with 16's all round, and the standard spare will NOT fit over the big brakes...so I am hoping that someone has a 4 stud space saver that INITIALLY I could test fit to (1) make sure it fits without fouling the brakes, and (2) fits in the original spare wheel well. So...PLEASE get back to me if you have one....Id really appreciate it ! Note...it needs to be 4 stud !! Cheers Warren

I had this annoying Clicking noise for about 2 years.....and had known all along about the DIY tutorial posted by nick81xd. found here ... http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/301992-diy-fix-cluncking-noise-in-dash-r33s/?hl=+clicking%20+behind%20+dash but just never had the time to try the fix. Recently, I got motivated, and followed his guide, but on my 96 GTR V-Spec, which has passenger Airbag, there is simply no way. So...I decided to just pull the dash out and do it that way. This may seem daunting, but it was actually quite easy ! I have documented the steps below, with description and pictures. IMPORTANT : Once I had my actuator out, I tried the 'fix', and unfortunately, when attempting to remove the lever arm from the shaft, the shaft broke. I tried again on a spare Actuator that I had from a car I parted out - Same thing happened. So, I was left with NO CHOICE but to order a new one...it was around $250 and took 7 week to arrive from Japan. So... Be aware, that if you go to all the trouble of dismantling the dash, and the fix on your original actuator isn't successful, then you're up for a long wait !..You need to make the call BEFORE you attempt it, whether or not to buy the part new. ! Learn from my experience ! Step 1 - MOST IMPORTANT THING TO DO - DISCONNECT THE BATTERY ! - Remove the ashtray, and the screw that is exposed after its removed (Circled in Red) - Remove the shifter cover panel - pull it 'upwards' gently from the rearmost position - Secure all screws in a zip-lock back, labelled accordingly! Step 2 - Remove the 2 screws securing the bottom of the Dash Fascia (Circled in Red) - Lower the Steering column as far as it will go - Remove the Dash Fascia by gently pulling it out towards you - It just clips in. Be Gentle - Once clear enough, reach behind and unplug all electrical plugs. - Secure all screws in a zip-lock back, labelled accordingly! Step 3 - Remove the 4 screws securing Instrument cluster Fascia (Circled in Red) - Secure all screws in a zip-lock back, labelled accordingly! Step 4 - Remove the 3 screws securing Instrument cluster (Circled in Red) - Carefully unplug all Connectors at the back - Secure all screws in a zip-lock back, labelled accordingly! Step 5 - Raise the Steering Column up again - Remove the 2x10mm bolts (Circled in Red on RHS of pic) securing the bonnet release - pull BR down and out of the way) - Remove remaining screws (Circled in Red) - Yellow Circles indicate the pivot point of the lower valence panel....swing the panel down, and remove it - Remove the remaining console kick-panel. - Secure all screws in a zip-lock back, labelled accordingly! Step 6 - Remove the 2 screws securing the front of the centre console (marked by pointing fingers) - Secure all screws in a zip-lock back, labelled accordingly! Step 7 - Remove the 2 screws securing the rear of the centre console - You will need to move the seats forward - Secure all screws in a zip-lock back, labelled accordingly! Step 8 - Remove the glovebox, by removing the 2 pins from underneath. (no picture - sorry ! ) - It will now look like the pic below - Remove the 4 screws (Circled in Red) - Yellow rectangles indicate the approximate location of push-in clips - the lower kick panel MAY also have to be removed (indicated by yellow arrow) - carefully pull the panel out towards you to release the hidden push-in clips - Secure all screws in a zip-lock back, labelled accordingly! Step 9 - Remove the 6 screws securing the centre gauges, climate control and sound system Note: this may look different on GTS-T models obviously - Remove all units, carefully unplugging the connectors at back. - Secure all screws in a zip-lock back, labelled accordingly! Step 10 - Remove AC vents on the top of the dash. They clip in...be Gentle - I found it useful to tie string to the temp sensor connector...makes re-installation easier - IMPORTANT : You will also need to remove the A-Pillar interior trims on both sides (No Pics of this - Sorry !) - Failure to do so may make it impossible to remove the dash...Im not 100% sure because I removed mine prior to dash removal Step 11 - DASH REMOVAL ! You are now ready to remove the dash ! - Lower the steering column Fully. - Remove the 2x10mm bolts at windscreen - Remove the securing nut, located behind when the instrument cluster sits. - Remove the screws on each side of the console. - Remove the last 2 bolts, located as shown in the following pics. - Secure all screws, Nuts & Bolts in a zip-lock back, labelled accordingly! - Now its just a matter of lifting the dash out of place, and manoeuvring it out of the car - this will be a tad awkward ! Step 12 - The following is what you will see ! - Remove the 2 screws that secure the AC actuator in place (marked in Red) - At this point, you can try the fix/remedy suggested in nick81xd's post, however, for reasons mentioned at the top of this post, I replaced mine with a new unit - Shown in the following Pic re-assembly is simply the reverse order of this list.

SOLD

Price Reduced....$800

Up for Grabs I have an RB25DET 5 Speed Gearbox. It was removed from a wrecked donor R33 GTS-T to fit (along with the engine) into my Datsun 260Z Project. The Gearbox has been in that car now for a number of years, with hardly any use. I had another Gearbox that I wasn't sure the condition of, so with the newly found time I have had recently, I finally swapped the boxes over, and the Spare box was also good - Id say in just as good a condition as the original. So, Instead of having to do the job all over again, I have decided to sell the original Box instead of the spare. It is smooth through all gears, quiet, with no known problems - As i say, it was fitted to my 260Z RB Datto for years. It DOESNT come with the clutch fork or Bearing Carrier, and there is no Gearstick assembly either... You'll have to use the ones from your dead box !! Im happy to answer any questions you may have $1000 Firm Warren

I'm searching for a Clutch fork & retaining clip, Thrust bearing carrier (with or without bearing), and a gearstick c/w circlip. Can anyone help ? Cheers

I'm searching for a Clutch fork & retaining clip, Thrust bearing carrier (with or without bearing), and a gearstick c/w circlip. Can anyone help ? Cheers

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