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blind_elk

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About blind_elk

  • Birthday 06/05/1954

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    Male
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    Melbourne

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  • Car(s)
    R32 GTS25t-4, 1973 180B SSS
  • Real Name
    Greg

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  1. Well, finally got new solenoid fitted - no-one said anything about needing to drop the diff! Still getting code 18, which suggests its the pump that is rooted. Anyone know if the pump is repairable / serviceable? Where I might find one (even to take apart to see how it works)?
  2. I used Stagea diffs (4.08:1) in my R32 GTS4 after I swapped in a RB25DET from a Stagea. Simply swapped CW / pinion onto the R32 centres. Installed a speedo drive from a GT-R to bring the speedo back into line. (Front diff is still open,but then I don't have mind-boggling power - 180aWkw is enough to scare me!)
  3. I finally got round to purchasing the replacement solenoid for the ATTESA pump (refer my post in Vic section from April/2022). So today I tried installing it - what a @#$% problem that is!. Gave up quickly, decided to see if simply bleeding ATTESA would help. Found a uTube video, watched, seemed simple enough. Had difficulty bleeding the rear nipple (can't swing a brake spanner up there), and had minimal fluid come out. So, to front, disconnect clip, crack nipple, pump works for a bit, then stops. Keep cracking nipple, pump not working. (when disconnected, torque gauge goes 60% - is that right?) So, anyone got a diagnosis? Is the whole ATTESA f*kced? Do I need to totally dismantle it and reassemble? BTW, pic of my reservoir:
  4. Hi All, I want to get my bonnet resprayed, but I want to retain the car to use while that is being done. So, anyone have a spare bonnet to suit a R32 GTST that I can borrow for the duration? Cheers
  5. Usually "undersize" rotors have worn below the thickness threshold. Peeeeetaaah - why don't you measure the diameter of what you have now so you will know the correct size replacement to get?
  6. Sometimes, the timing light indicates the incorrect timing. How did you actually measure / set timing?
  7. Its really happening - again. Check out NDSOC website for details. https://www.ndsoc.com.au/events
  8. Well, finally got a response from Frenchy (amazingly almost immediately after I resent the original request with tracking). Looks like it is not really a DIY repair, so now need to find a mechanic, preferably Western Subs / Werribee, who can install this new pressure sensor. TIA
  9. Thanks Duncan. Not the answer I was hoping for! 👎 for them getting back to you when you ask a question.
  10. Well, I finally got around to getting the kit. But where does it go? Is it in that cluster that sits on top of the (rear) diff? (asked frenchy, no reply, and no instructions available)
  11. I was looking at the DBA website for specs. I think I read correctly as far as R34 GT (N/A) rotors (not GT-T) were concerned. My bad if I mis-read the whole thing.
  12. No-one seems to have considered that R34 rotors are thinner than R33 (26mm vs 30mm). I suspect there will be a problem that the pistons might pop out if the pads wear too thin. I would not bother upgrading the rears - the majority of braking is done by the front brakes. I suggest upgrading the fronts to R32 GT-R rotors / calipers. The rotors are larger diameter (296mm) , and thicker (32mm) than the R34 setup. At the least, GTSt rotors / calipers (280mm dia, 30mm thick).
  13. Works when 12V applied directly. Supplier claims works on Pos and Neg earth system (although doesn't work when battery polarity reversed), and CANBUS compatible.
  14. Can't change polarity. And applying +12V to centre terminal suggests that they are the correct polarity.
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