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Equilibrise

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Equilibrise last won the day on August 10 2013

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About Equilibrise

  • Birthday 18/04/1982

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Concord

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  • Car(s)
    Nissan Stagea M35 AR-X
  • Real Name
    Adam

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  1. They are in the headlights. The globes are probably blown.
  2. Garage clearout of vq25 parts left over from engine swap. Please make an offer on the following parts if you are interested. Power steering pump Alternator A/C condensor Stock injectors with rail and harness Various sensors Stock engine ecu and auto ecu and bcm Front diff Belt tensioners Radiator hoses Torque converter and flex plate Brand new set of springs for bc coilovers
  3. Should be the same. I rebuilt one of my vq25det with vq35de specs and all was fine
  4. Sounds awful. Fan hitting the shroud Bearing gone on one if the pulleys. Loose timing or cam chain slapping around (pray its not that) The sound of a damaged hydraulic lifter would be alot faster. Good luck
  5. Sorry guys, no longer parting out vehicle. Going to tidy it up and sell it whole
  6. You want the same as g35x. The v35 ones are smaller.
  7. Hi all, Parting out my beloved m35 stagea ARX, although happy to sell complete. All items are in used but good to very good condition. Stock parts also available. Located in Sydney. These are the aftermarket parts up for sale: - 350z brembos with freshly machined DBA t3 slotted rotors and stoptech braided lines. Front and rear $1200 - BC br adjustable coilovers with swift 12.0 kgf/mm racing springs Front and rear $1200 Swift springs are WAY better than the standard BC springs. Read up on them. I recommend anyone with BCs get them. - superpro sway bars with adjustable links on rear Front and rear $500 - Moonface roll center adjusters (lower control arm ball joint) Front $200 SPL pro v5 tie rods ends (bumpsteer adjusters) with tein inner tie rods Front $300 ((The above two are especially important for lowered cars as they return the geometry of the steering arms and the lower control arms back to standard geometry... so less bumpsteer and more control)) - white line rear subframe mount kit $100 (allows subframe setup for better traction or worse traction (drift)) - 18" x 8" velocity wheels with tyres Front and rear $1200 (These wheels clear the brembo brakes without the need for spacers) - HDi front mount intercooler $500 - transmission cooler $40 - koyorad aluminium radiator $200 - turbosmart kompact plumb back Bov $150 - stock turbo with gt3061 internals (turbine and bearings) and turbosmart wastegate actuator. Includes water and oil lines. $1800 - 3" Charlestown turboback exhaust including 3" dump and highflow cat. Twin tip rear muffler. $700 - seimens deka 660cc injectors on rail $300 - deatchworks 300lph fuel pump $180 - 19mm thick phenolic plenum runner spacer $180 - vq25det engine (less turbo) $1900 - auto transmission with transgo shift kit installed $400 - emanage ultimate piggyback ecu with wired in loom and map sensor $800 - innovate lc-2 wideband o2 sensor and controller $120 - greddy profec electronic oled boost controller $350 - greddy infometer touch display $200 - ark design stb turbo timer (slots into stock switch opening in dash) $80 - century ultra high performance 640cca battery (8 months old) $150 - prorack roofracks (well used) $150 - fast fit tow bar $350 Adam 0405326007
  8. Or could be transmission fluid leaking out of the radiator... They have a transmission fluid feed at the bottom of the radiator - if its a stock one. N.B. to find your turbo just follow the intake pipe down from the air filter
  9. Possible hole in intercooler which is forcing blowby out there. Does it run well? Hunting or stalling?
  10. Left hand side behind glove box. Remove under and side kick panels and you will see it if you stick your head up there. Don't mistake it with the A/T ecu. They're both up there. Its unlikely that you have wiring issues, unless its been played with before... You should ensure that the replacement throttle body is compatible with the ecu (unless you plan on tuning an aftermarket ecu)
  11. That's high oil consumption. Worth trying to find out where it's going. Oil you are using could be too thin also... Checking oil every few weeks as a minimum is a good habit to get into, weather the engine looses oil or not. It's an expensive repair if it runs out.
  12. It's been a while coming, but here's an update: Got a new Deaschworks DW300 and installed it. On start up it was running very rough (4-5 cylinders) with AFR9. The engine stalled - too rich I suppose. At which point the starter motor packed up (have had signs it would). Solenoid contacts are worn out. After being knobbed around by the autoelectrician who has rebuilt a few of my M35 starters before, it seems the solenoids cant be replaced. So, installed another 2nd hand starter, got it running and still rough as guts. Discovered 2 spark plugs weren't firing as their tubes were full of oil. Over the next few days I'll strip the rocker covers and reseal the worn rubber seals around the spark plug tubes. Hopefully this will sought out the issues its got. I'm getting over it. Very close to deciding to part it out. Thanks for your help fellas
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