Murray_Calavera

In the first photo you posted, the colour of the control arms are the signature colour for Ikeya. Same for the swaybar, signature colour for Whiteline. I like Hardrace, they also do hardened rubber bushes if your car is mainly a street car. I like GKTech as well, but they use a lot of rose joints in their stuff so might not be the best choice for everyone. The system might have been good back in its day, but it's a prehistoric system now. I suspect that most people have removed the HICAS as they want the car to do what they want to do, not what the car wants to do. From what I also understand, it isn't consistent in it's behaviour on track so it's hard to trust the car/know where its absolute limits are for track use. Having said that, I think the HICAS eliminator kit was the first thing I installed when I bought my car. I don't personally have any experience with the HICAS system on a race track.

It looks like you've got Ikeya control arms and an aftermarket sway bar, maybe whiteline? Or am I just going crazy? lol Unfortunately it won't, but what it will do is look really pretty. That's about all unfortunately. How much neg camber do you currently have? Generally lowing the car dials in quite a bit of neg camber as it is. If you do go down this path, your best bet is get adjustable arms, toe arms (or preferably a good HICAS elimination kit) and traction rods. With all 3 being adjustable, you'll be able to dial out any bump steer that is introduced by playing with the camber settings.

But your running 1.6 bar of boost, is it still 12 degrees of timing at 1.6 bar of boost? Also, is there e85 fuel at the petrol stations in Dubai?

Hmm I'm going to approach this from the other side... What is the car doing that you don't like or what would you like the car to do that is currently isn't doing (handling wise that is)

Checked for spark? Checked for fuel?

Any chance you know how much timing your running to make that power? Did your tuner say what the limitation was when they were tuning (eg knock? boost control issues? etc) And final thought, if you are able to easily source e85 where you live, I'd 100% recommend using it. But before you go back for the flex tune, you probably want to get some bigger injectors. On e85 I see you maxing out those 1050cc injectors real quick.

Workshop manual.

@MBS206 yeah it's a short run from battery in boot to pump

It's 12 gauge Tefzel wire. Should be right for 20 amps. I've clamped the fuel pump wiring, it measured around 20 amps. I can't remember the exact figure, I did it a while ago now, but it was around 20 amps. Still, lots of good info in this thread now. I'll keep investigating and post back with what ends up solving the voltage problem.

It doesn't get tuned to handle the BOV as such, with an aftermarket ECU, you can use a MAP sensor instead of the MAF sensor. In short, the MAP sensor doesn't care about your atmo venting BOV and your mixtures will remain correct. An aftermarket ECU could choose to use a MAF sensor, but not many people do. I haven't used a MAF sensor in something like 20 years. They are a pain in the arse to mount correctly so that the air flows through the way the sensor wants it to (in your now custom intake to suit your bigger turbo etc), they are a restriction in the intake, they have limitations in the volume of air they can accurately measure, you can't use an atmo BOV as you've discovered, etc.

Yep, factory alternator. Fuel pump wiring isn't bad. Not perfect, but isn't bad. The gauge of wire has no issues supplying the 20 amps, the only issue is I'm using the factory connector in the fuel pump hanger which I'd be amazed if they are rated for 20 amps... but nothing has melted so far lol. It's also got the typical relay direct power from battery etc.

Basically, yep. However I can't see you fouling plugs from that alone though (not enough time spent in the rich condition to do anything meaningful to the plugs). If I cast my mind back 15 or so years ago to the I last time I saw this actually happen in person, it just made the car really grumpy for a few seconds and nearly stall and only really had any effect at low speeds/low engine speeds. For sure this is the perfect excuse to get an ecu, delete the maf sensor and keep the bov lol.

You can have an aftermarket BOV that 100% recirculates (the same way the factory one works) Does your BOV vent to atmosphere?

Well, good news. The fuel pressure situation is a million times better. Please see attached dataz. @Dose Pipe Sutututu what battery voltage would you expect to be seeing? When I'm puttering around it floats between 12.8 to 13 volts and when punching through the hills its about 13 to 13.2 volts. Are these normal values? But yeah, I'm so glad I don't have to dig this fuel pump out again lol.

I'd hate to think how many tables you'd need to have a constant perfect tune for all driving conditions without a wideband lol.