Jump to content
SAU Community

Cplus

Members
  • Posts

    133
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Profile Fields

  • Car(s)
    none
  • Real Name
    Clive

Recent Profile Visitors

3,238 profile views

Cplus's Achievements

Collaborator

Collaborator (7/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later
  • One Year In

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. Amazing work mate - looks sensational. Quality of finish is better than factory! Couple of queries....? No dust boots on the dampers? Did you consider powder coating instead of paint? Especially the larger items like sub frames and the like that a a major pita to take out to repaint when the inevitable stone chips occur. Powder coat - when prepared properly, would give a much more resilient finish. Look forward to a similar level of OCD on the interior!
  2. oh, i'm sure there are isolated cases, for particular cars, where the $$$'s stack up and big profits are possible. like a drophead or an Aston or cheap M5's i'm sure considering the prices here v UK. My mate also landed a 328 he owned for 2years in the UK and saved heaps on buying one here - but he didn't count the cost of owning it in the UK as his wife drove it to work 3days a week and then they did 5000km around Europe with it. so it's a different case. but - this wouldn't fall into the realms of possibility/reality for most and all the other 12month costs are still to be considered.
  3. all you blokes shocked by the law etc etc - think about it for a minute. it's all set up so that people DON'T do what the OP is trying to do (ie: bring car over for a big profit) the law is setup for those that live oversees, love their car and want to bring it home. they then want the costs ideally to be only *just* less than what it would be to replace, so yes, you'll do it, but no, the goverment won't lose out on the money they would had you left it behind and then purchased the closest equivalent when you emmigrate back to Aus. it's generally ONLY ever worth it if the car is one you have O/S and you actually do *need* it whilst there. owning a GTR or Porsche or whatever for 12months is a massive cost in itself (insurance in the UK is horrendous, plus it'll be parked outside more than likley and get covered in dings, scratches, bird shit, salt etc etc) So unless you can justify owning it and using it - it never stacks up. the idea of buying something and sticking it in a garage for 12 months for the sake of 10-20% profit (ABSOLUTE best (realistic) case once ALL the costs are taken into account - ie: the garage for a start!) is ludicrous and not the best use of your money for 12 months+ and remember, it's a risk. you might make 20%, but you also might make a loss pending market, currency change, import rules changes etc - so you need to accept that risk as well - 12months is a long time. my 2c.
  4. put the VIN into Fast and then you'll know for sure.
  5. you sure it is a Vspec? ie: not just a stocko GTR with a different boot and the BBS rims?
  6. did you import this yourself mate? why selling?
  7. how would one go about getting in touch with your mate to grab one then?
  8. you are a braver man than most. seems like quite a low base to start from.
  9. Alternator whine is likely to be either; - a poor ground from amp to chassis make sure the metal is "bright" (get rid of paint by sanding) and that the ring fitting on your cable is making good contact. this includes your head unit ground cable as well. - a poor ground from battery to chassis rarely this in modern cars with small systems, but a good idea to upgrade the factory earth with an additional cable equal to the one from your amp to chassis. again, ensure good contacts. - RCA interference poor quality RCA's, RCA's that are "coiled" (due to being too long) or RCA's running near engine looms or other power cables can cause noise. easy way to check here is to unplug your RCA's and connect an iPod with a stero jack to RCA adapter. If your noise is still there, it is power side (earthing) if the noise is gone it is signal (RCA) side. very rarely is it interference due to the head unit itself unless it is older than the hills or crap quality - like sound4 or something what an ill informed comment.
  10. ^^^ yep ^^^ think of when you are seeing a band live. there are never speakers behind you, and you don't stand backwards to make the music sound better. sound stage belongs in front of you. rear fill is very rarely even "required" for good sound and only really ever "needed" if you care about keeping back seat passengers happy.
  11. Fronts gone now. Rear Wheel Bearings incl. Hub (R32/33 incl GTR and S14/S15) - $150set Thrust/Throw out bearing (clutch, not shown) - $25 make an offer.
  12. wheel bearings and thrust bearing still sitting here. car is sold, definitely no need to hang on to them. Front Wheel Bearings incl. seals (R32/33/34 incl GTR) - $100set Rear Wheel Bearings incl. Hub (R32/33 incl GTR and S14/S15) - $175set -OR- $250 for all 4 corners. Thrust/Throw out bearing (clutch, not shown) - $35 make an offer for the lot?
×
×
  • Create New...