R34GTFOUR

Most of the time head gaskets let go because of detonation.. so by having that as the weakest link then it could potentially save the piston/rings which would be next in line if something went wrong. Kind of like running street tyres vs slicks at the track. The street tyres are the fusible link, they will only take so much force before they just start baking. If you run slicks and then all of a sudden your shafts/diff/clutch need to be able to take a whole lot more force otherwise they go – if that makes sense. With that said, I bought a Cometic 3 layer

Sorry to hear about all the drama mate.. I just threw out an RB30 crank on the weekend because its been sitting in my shed for the last 3 years! Series 1 & 2 cranks are the same - its just the block that differs

$680

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FYI - Gasket paper is apparently the go here. One of my emails must of actually made it through because Greg from Proengines replied advising the above. A steady hand and a stanley blade should get the job done

Hi everyone, I was hoping I could get some info on the oil pick-up gasket everyone is using on the RB30 (i.e. the gasket that goes between the block and the oil pick-up/strainer)? The RB25 runs a metal gasket, however the brand new gasket I received from Nissan won't fit the RB30 block because the bolt holes are slightly different (a few mm out), According to Nissan, the RB30 runs a rubber O ring instead - which would normally be fine, but I'm running the Proengines AWD adaptor which comes with a new oil pickup. When I bought the block, it already had the stock RB30 oil pick-up removed, so I'm assuming the stock pick-up has a recess in it to hold the factory O ring - I don't see it working any other way as the block is machined flat. The new pick-up I have is also flat, so it needs either a flat metal gasket or an oil resistant sealer (which I don't really want to put on). I've tried to contact Greg from Proengines but his email inbox is full and I can't get through. Any insights you can provide would be great! Cheers Steve

Quality kit for people interested in making some decent power

SOLD

SOLD

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Still here

I wonder what has happened to this engine and where it has come from... Is it a R32 RB25de that someone has just bolted a turbo onto or is it actually an R33 RB25DET that someone has removed the stock head and put a R32 RB25de head on it (if so, why - doesn't make sense??) Anyway.. it all comes down to the head as that will dictate what manifold you can use and in turn what injectors/ecu/wiring. If its a R32 RB25de head then the inlet pattern is different again to the R33 25 manifolds so you're going to run the manifold that came with the engine as your R34 also wont fit (as you now know). The injectors that came with your "new" engine should work,because if they are R32 RB25de injectors they should be high impedance so your stock ECU should be fine. Basically, you will want to try and swap as many sensors etc off the R34 to the new engine so you keep it as "plug n play" as possible. You may need to rewire a few to suit if some of the sensors that aren't compatible (i.e. CAS, possible injector plugs). You also wont be able to hook your VCT up either because this engine doesn't have it. I would still be opting out and look at selling the engine and getting the NEO RB25, but if you're up for a challenge and a bit of work theres no reason why you couldn't get this engine going in your car. Good luck!

Yup that's definitely not an RB25 - the biggest give away is that it has no "bulge" on the timing belt cover where the inlet cam is - that's where the VCT should be. No VCT - no Rb25 I wouldn't be putting that into an R34. Sell it and get the right one.

Few interested buyers - but no one has fronted the cash. bump!

The only thing I could potentially think of is the N/A Neo head is different - which would strike me as odd.. The r33 na and turbo heads are idential, same bolt pattern and fully interchangeable. The R34 GT-T head is a different set-up to the R33 heads, however the manifold bolt pattern (both inlet and exhaust side) is the same as the R33 heads so the manifolds are definitely interchangeable. I've swapped all of the above over before, but must admit I've never touched an N/A Neo head before - I would have assumed that the N/A Neo head would have the same pattern as the turbo one because thats what it is like on the R33 engine... and its unlike Nissan to develop a completely different head. Unfortunately, if the n/a neo manifold wont fit on the S2 engine, then its no longer a simple bolt in excercise with the gear you have.. I would still steer away from running the R33 gear and re-wiring your R34 to suit but thats me. If it was me, I would look at three options: -try to track down a standard turbo neo manifold for cheap and bolt that onto the S2 engine. -If you can't get the stock manifold or if they want blood money for it, then buy an aftermarket top feel fuel rail and fuel regualtor so you can run the top feed injectors on the S2 manifold. A nice rail is around $180, $50 for fittings, then $150 for a regulator - so budject around $400. -Replace the inlet side altogether with an aftermarket set-up. Get a new Greddy "style" manfold (or the genuine version if have the $$), get an aftermaket fuel rail and regulator to suit the top feed injectors for an R33 manfiold. This will cost anywhere from $700-$1300 depending if you get the genuine greddy gear or not.